Help with autometer wiring?

[northeastmopar]

OK, so I got all my autometer gauges wired. Replacing the stock panel in my 72 Demon. I installed a voltmeter, removed the alternator amp gauge. I just soldered the two amp gauge wires together and taped them really well. (black and red). Now, I understand that the blue with white tracer is the power on feed which passes through the ignition in the key on position to power up all my instrument cluster gauges? So, I took off from the blue with white tracer and jumped from instrument to instrument to feed every gauge. I then ran a separate wire the same way to all the grounds, which will get grounded in two places under the dash frame. Then I color coded the remaining wires to feed the actual signals. My question is, am I correct in the blue with white tracer feeding the gauges thru the ignition switch? I also ran a separate wire from the lights on switch to all the gauge lights and just jumped from one to the other and then a separate ground jumping them from one to the other and that will be grounded to the dash frame. I was going to go out and buy my battery now and set up alligator probes to test out each circuit while this is on the bench. Does this sound like a good plan. I also fixed the ebrake indicator light (the black wire) by powering up a feed thru the ignition switch again and the black goes to the separate ground which activates that little red light when the ebrake is pulled up and grounds the circuit with the plunger type switch.

 

[67Dart273]

You have a shop manual / wiring diagram?

A good plan for testing circuits before you "turn things loose" is to get a BIG wattage "test lamp." There are several ways to "rig" this. One way is to use an old headlamp, another is to use an old stop / tail lamp socket with both wires twisted together to make both filaments work as one

Hook your "big test lamp" IN SERIES to the battery ground. That is, ground the stoplamp socket to the body, and hook the two twisted leads to the battery NEG terminal

Or hook the headlight to body ground, the other terminal to battery NEG terminal.

This makes a SERIES lamp so that ANY current going through the battery is limited by the lamp. This means you cannot run the starter, and if you turn on something like the headlamps, they may not light or may light as a low glow. But on "lighter" loads it gives you a safety in case you have something shorted that would otherwise cause a big cloud of illegal smoke

This of course triggers a full on EPA superfund cleanup