help with top installation.

[JimMac]

I am installing my top on my 1965 Valiant. I do not have the old top to use as a pattern. This makes it harder and requires a lot of measuring etc. What would help is if someone could measure the distance from the bottom of the sides of the top at the rear window where they meet the chrome moulding to the next snap on the moulding on the window side. My top is for a 65 or 66 so I do not know if other years are the same. This would give me a place to start with that area and I realize I may have to adjust some but I am getting good at that.
.

 

[66Dvert]

I am installing my top on my 1965 Valiant. I do not have the old top to use as a pattern. This makes it harder and requires a lot of measuring etc. What would help is if someone could measure the distance from the bottom of the sides of the top at the rear window where they meet the chrome moulding to the next snap on the moulding on the window side. My top is for a 65 or 66 so I do not know if other years are the same. This would give me a place to start with that area and I realize I may have to adjust some but I am getting good at that.
.

I have a dart and have not done a plymouth in a while ,but. take a measurement of the center of the rear roof bow. mark it, take a measurement of the radiused bottom corners of the metal dutchmans panel, find centerline. is the rear curtain(window) installed? if so fine centerline of curtain. measure the marks center line at the curtain to the rear bow (write it down,should be in the 24 1/2 range, if not adjust it using the side tension wires,). raise the header bow up using a 2"x4" piece at the windshield. Mark the centerline of the top on the bottom and the top side of the front header,rear bow and bottom curtain then start normal install procedures. don't forget to do the side sail panel split so you don't rip the top as soon as you lower it.
here is bow height measurement. and you need to set it before the rear window goes on or it'll change the way you install the top and look horrible(don't ask cause I ain't admitting to doing that)

Here is your setting for that rear bow height 24 1/2"

here is where the slit in the top goes so you don't rip it the front 1/2 part goes into the well liner and lets water drain into the well to go out the bottom of the liner onto the ground, it does not get screwed in place until the red arrow

no that's not me, I'd be beating the hell out of that guy for walking on my trunk or dutchmans panel) but did you notice he forgot to raise the front header to help tighten the top. yup just that little mistake cost the owner a loose top that might have wrinkles.

this is what happens when you DO secure the front and Don't make the split

the split usually is directly below the rear bow. to help with wrinkles and so you can tighten the sail panel without wrinkles.

hope this helped

 

[JimMac]

I have a dart and have not done a plymouth in a while ,but. take a measurement of the center of the rear roof bow. mark it, take a measurement of the radiused bottom corners of the metal dutchmans panel, find centerline. is the rear curtain(window) installed? if so fine centerline of curtain. measure the marks center line at the curtain to the rear bow (write it down,should be in the 24 1/2 range, if not adjust it using the side tension wires,). raise the header bow up using a 2"x4" piece at the windshield. Mark the centerline of the top on the bottom and the top side of the front header,rear bow and bottom curtain then start normal install procedures. don't forget to do the side sail panel split so you don't rip the top as soon as you lower it.
here is bow height measurement. and you need to set it before the rear window goes on or it'll change the way you install the top and look horrible(don't ask cause I ain't admitting to doing that)
View attachment 1715358754


Here is your setting for that rear bow height 24 1/2"
View attachment 1715358755
here is where the slit in the top goes so you don't rip it the front 1/2 part goes into the well liner and lets water drain into the well to go out the bottom of the liner onto the ground, it does not get screwed in place until the red arrow
View attachment 1715358756
no that's not me, I'd be beating the hell out of that guy for walking on my trunk or dutchmans panel) but did you notice he forgot to raise the front header to help tighten the top. yup just that little mistake cost the owner a loose top that might have wrinkles.
View attachment 1715358757
this is what happens when you DO secure the front and Don't make the split
View attachment 1715358758
the split usually is directly below the rear bow. to help with wrinkles and so you can tighten the sail panel without wrinkles.
View attachment 1715358759


hope this helped

Thanks, That has been a great help. I could see that the split would be necessary but was hesitating to do that. I do have the window attached but wanted to know where to attach the sail panels before I cut it.

 

[66Dvert]

Thanks, That has been a great help. I could see that the split would be necessary but was hesitating to do that. I do have the window attached but wanted to know where to attach the sail panels before I cut it.

I attached the sail panels using tape to keep it tight and then laid down my side tack strips and marked it just a bit bigger I didn't cut mine till I actually had it pulled tight and mounted (with the front header bow raised) and all the wrinkles pulled out of the top. I only put in 2 screws on the side tack strips to locate the strips and top to make sure it was (1)tight as I could pull it with the front header raised a bit (2) wrinkle free. (3) yes, I did have to take the 2 screws out and move them but thankfully it was a horizontal move not a vertical one since the metal tack strips were only 1/2 wide. how are your front header seal and side wing pieces?

 

[JimMac]

I attached the sail panels using tape to keep it tight and then laid down my side tack strips and marked it just a bit bigger I didn't cut mine till I actually had it pulled tight and mounted (with the front header bow raised) and all the wrinkles pulled out of the top. I only put in 2 screws on the side tack strips to locate the strips and top to make sure it was (1)tight as I could pull it with the front header raised a bit (2) wrinkle free. (3) yes, I did have to take the 2 screws out and move them but thankfully it was a horizontal move not a vertical one since the metal tack strips were only 1/2 wide. how are your front header seal and side wing pieces?

My header seal piece was bad and one side piece was missing but I had an old time sheet metal man make something that should work. He did make me a new side piece as well.

 

[JimMac]

I attached the sail panels using tape to keep it tight and then laid down my side tack strips and marked it just a bit bigger I didn't cut mine till I actually had it pulled tight and mounted (with the front header bow raised) and all the wrinkles pulled out of the top. I only put in 2 screws on the side tack strips to locate the strips and top to make sure it was (1)tight as I could pull it with the front header raised a bit (2) wrinkle free. (3) yes, I did have to take the 2 screws out and move them but thankfully it was a horizontal move not a vertical one since the metal tack strips were only 1/2 wide. how are your front header seal and side wing pieces?

So you were a great help in getting me started with the top. I now have a few questions that I hope you can help me with. Where does the tie down wire attach at the back? I see the connections on the front window weather strip holder but not the back. Also which end will have the spring ?. Also I have only temporarily connected to the front header. I am wondering how the corners should be dealt with. Any information you can give me will be appreciated, or you could just come to Campbell River on Vancouver Island in B.C. Canada and show me how.

 

[66Dvert]

So you were a great help in getting me started with the top. I now have a few questions that I hope you can help me with. Where does the tie down wire attach at the back? I see the connections on the front window weather strip holder but not the back. Also which end will have the spring ?. Also I have only temporarily connected to the front header. I am wondering how the corners should be dealt with. Any information you can give me will be appreciated, or you could just come to Campbell River on Vancouver Island in B.C. Canada and show me how.

Dang should a hit me up in june, I was in Michigan headed out towards north dakota to pick up a parts car for my wife's 66 convertible restoration. couple questions first. Is the rear window and bow height set with a tight window and the wires tight also at the correct height? Did you mark the center of the bow AND the window top and bottom? Did you mark the center of the top in the rear (I use blue masking tape on a light top and light white masking tape for a dark top and mark on that for centering) and in the front so it's not twisted at all? Did you have to adjust the bow height to get the wires to equalize? if so, then raise the front header up about 1.5 inches (trust me you can nit actually pull the top tight enough with the top latched down so that 1.5 inches to latching gives it the correct tension after you have pulled it as tight as you can by hand.) been there done that and got a loose top for forgetting it. the front part of the rear sail panel that gets cut goes inside the well so water can drain into the car but goes in the well to drain out the weep hole in the well liner (most well liners don't even come with the plug and grommet anymore though so a towel is needed sometimes to dry the liner out.)
spring goes to the back stretch it out and you will see a screw hole for it to attach too in the black aluminum arm at the rear of the frame(orange circles.). The dart frame is /has a square corner and is easy to align. But the Valiant is rounded so you have to align the front edge of the top with the quarter window flap so it looks like ....ummm post #2 picture # 3 so that the stainless steel trim holder will hod the top to the frame (contact cement on both frame and top,let dry 15 minutes then position it for a smooth look.)

Here is the well put on before the top and curtain use lots of landau contact cement. 3m 77 or 90 just doesn't do as well

those 2 screws are here in orange. and go in the pocket in the top to hold down the top when driving.

hope this helps.

 

[JimMac]

Dang should a hit me up in june, I was in Michigan headed out towards north dakota to pick up a parts car for my wife's 66 convertible restoration. couple questions first. Is the rear window and bow height set with a tight window and the wires tight also at the correct height? Did you mark the center of the bow AND the window top and bottom? Did you mark the center of the top in the rear (I use blue masking tape on a light top and light white masking tape for a dark top and mark on that for centering) and in the front so it's not twisted at all? Did you have to adjust the bow height to get the wires to equalize? if so, then raise the front header up about 1.5 inches (trust me you can nit actually pull the top tight enough with the top latched down so that 1.5 inches to latching gives it the correct tension after you have pulled it as tight as you can by hand.) been there done that and got a loose top for forgetting it. the front part of the rear sail panel that gets cut goes inside the well so water can drain into the car but goes in the well to drain out the weep hole in the well liner (most well liners don't even come with the plug and grommet anymore though so a towel is needed sometimes to dry the liner out.)
spring goes to the back stretch it out and you will see a screw hole for it to attach too in the black aluminum arm at the rear of the frame(orange circles.). The dart frame is /has a square corner and is easy to align. But the Valiant is rounded so you have to align the front edge of the top with the quarter window flap so it looks like ....ummm post #2 picture # 3 so that the stainless steel trim holder will hod the top to the frame (contact cement on both frame and top,let dry 15 minutes then position it for a smooth look.)
View attachment 1715362617
Here is the well put on before the top and curtain use lots of landau contact cement. 3m 77 or 90 just doesn't do as well
View attachment 1715362623
those 2 screws are here in orange. and go in the pocket in the top to hold down the top when driving.
View attachment 1715362625

hope this helps.

 

[JimMac]

Yes I now have the rear bow adjusted to the 24 1/2 inches and the cords are tight and the rear sail panel and window are tight. I have made the cuts and fastened everything down with the holders but have not trimmed the excess off yet. I am hoping that we will get some warm sunny days when I can leave it outside and then retighten everything. I did center everything and now want to get the front connected. I did put a new well in and re used the drains from the old one.I will now try today to get everything attached at the front. Thanks again for your help.