Help with wet sand and buff

[340doc]

I'm in the process of painting my Duster and want to wet sand and buff when done. Has anyone done this? What is the process? Thanks!

 

[Abodybomber]

Basecoat-Clearcoat,single stage,lacquer? ...Let's start there,and how it was painted.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

And color. For example wet sanding a single stage metallic could get you into a bunch of trouble.

But really, correctly applied, you shouldn't need to go through all that. You may also want to apply an extra coat of clear (if going base/clear) if you plan on on sanding it flat.

You need a minimum thickness of clear to provide UV protection. Get below that minimum thickness, through wet sanding, and your clear will prematurely fail and fall off.

And I do mean, it will literally, fall off.

 

[Abodybomber]

And color. For example wet sanding a single stage metallic could get you into a bunch of trouble.

But really, correctly applied, you shouldn't need to go through all that. You may also want to apply an extra coat of clear (if going base/clear) if you plan on on sanding it flat.

You need a minimum thickness of clear to provide UV protection. Get below that minimum thickness, through wet sanding, and your clear will prematurely fail and fall off.

And I do mean, it will literally, fall off.

Thanks,340s..H.N.Y.

 

[340doc]

Basecoat-Clearcoat,single stage,lacquer? ...Let's start there,and how it was painted.

Sorry, basecoat clear, curious yellow, nothing fancy

 

[805moparkid]

go 4 coats of clear.

use a hardbloc (i'll find a link in a bit) with 1000 grit wet paper till you just cut the orange peel off, how ever many passes it took do that again. One pass is say from the top of the fender to the body line, should be about 5 strokes, or one pass. usually 10 passes before the next grit.

Next using the soft bloc use 1500. same process and 10 passes. on big and flat area's i like to change direction (roof, decklid, flat hoods, etc).

Last soft bloc and 2K.

Then heavy grit compound on the buffer and then fine. Personally i would just color sand it and then let the detailer do the rest.

Other tips would be to wash it between each sanding grit with soap and washer, also wash and then dry after you finish 2k. Be careful as you can burn thru edges really easy, if you want get some 1/8" blue fine line tape from the paint store and put it on your edges. Just dont leave it on after you get it wet, so if you are sanding and get the car done in 1K and are done for the day pull the tape that got wet, or just dont tape until your on that area.

 

[805moparkid]

these are the soft blocs, the hard blocks are solid black and the same thickness.

Soft bloc
http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDe...No=STE+35300&gclid=CK21yarp4LsCFUzZQgodlh8AEg


squeegee
http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDe...mNo=MMM+5518&gclid=CILTs4rp4LsCFcN_QgodG04APQ

 

[kevindahle]

This process isn't all that difficult but can turn into a disaster in a hurry! And the clear your using can make a big difference also, some clears buff like butter while others are tough. If you do not have experience I would recommend practice on older car or do some test panels. I also would recommend the compounds you chose that you use the same brand from buffing compound to glaze with their buff pads. Most of the problems first timers are from burning the fresh paint especially on edges or body lines. The sandpaper you start with depends on what you are trying to achieve, I use the finest I can get by with, usually 1500grit with a soft pad, and stay away from sharp edges! Sand a section and squeegee it dry, repeat until you satisfied with the texture. I only do one or two panels at a time. after 1500 grit I lightly go over with 2000 grit. As far as compounds go there is so many to chose from I use wizards products and love them, I have used 3m for years also. This is all personal preference all I can recommend is research the products and use the pads and compounds they recommend. watch some youtube videos.

 

[prrc]

You will get a different answer from just about everyone that has done much of this. At my shop we use a hard block and cut with 800. This will not only cut the orange peel quick but will level the clear. hard block with 1000. switch to a soft block and sand in circular motion with 1500 then the same with 2000. the reason for changing direction is to make sure you have removed all the 800/1000 sand scratches, if you see scratches running parallel you know you have missed a spot. Fast cut compound with a wool pad then swirl remover with a grey pad. then had glaze. Just our process.

 

[cawley]

If there is at least 4 to 5 coats of clear this is what I do ( everyone is diff. ) block sand w/ 1500 ( I use water ) then 2000 then 3000. I like to use the foam pads. There is different pads for different for buffing compound. If you ask some one where you get your buffing supplies they will help you with what compound to use with what pad. Use a buffer not a grinder / buffer. If you ever seen randy boligs ( mopar muscle editor ) red dart sport, that's one I did. I like to use 3m products. If any questions feel free to pm me good luck

 

[340doc]

Thanks to all who responded, appreciate all the info! I will post pics when done.

 

[AdamR]

Mine was done with 1500 and 2000 on a hard block, then 3000 and 5000 on a D/A