Help!!! won't start....Mechanic please!

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wyoduster

wyoduster

live free or die
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OK just change rear main hooked all back up and nothing.... 340 engine. Ok heres what I know...
#1 Piston on top center ,distrib. pointing at #1 and Balancer on center mark....
Gas in Carb...
Everything else looks right... Didn't check spark yet but worked before dismantle...
1st: Am I looking at the timing right?? is it posible I have it 180 off? If so How do I know that??
2nd: How can I check spark...?
3rd: What am I missing?
 
Alrighty so everything ran before you changed the rear main seal?

Alrighty, you said piston at TDC, rotor pointing to #1, etc, etc...However. Is it on the Exhaust Stroke TDC, or Compression Stroke TDC? To tell you can stick your finger over the plug hole and crank it over by hand, pressure will be a lot higher on compression than exhaust stroke of course. Or if you have a valve cover off, or a valve cover with a nice oil fill where you can see the #1 rockers...watch the intake valve close, then watch for TDC on the crank

Does it crank over? Does it try to pop, sputter, anything? Visible fuel shooting into the engine from the accell pump of the carb?

Easy way to check for spark if you have no fancy tools to do so, is take an extra new/old spark plug, lay the threads on a good ground and hook the other end to a plug wire. If even you cant do that with another plug. Take the coil wire, put it near a ground, as close as you can without touching, crank it over...you should see spark there. (make sure no fuel vapor around!)
 
I have to question the bump without update what you've ruled out since first post. Anyway...
You could just man up a bit and let a plug wire shock you once. Wont hurt much. LOL If you suspect the distributer is 180 degrees out it takes about 5 minutes to turn it. If you've seen sparks fly during engine R&R you may have killed fried the fusible link. This would result in dead interior, wipers, horn, etc..
 
RedFish said:
I have to question the bump without update what you've ruled out since first post. Anyway...
You could just man up a bit and let a plug wire shock you once. Wont hurt much. LOL If you suspect the distributer is 180 degrees out it takes about 5 minutes to turn it. If you've seen sparks fly during engine R&R you may have killed fried the fusible link. This would result in dead interior, wipers, horn, etc..
Click to expand...
Redfish,
5 min. to turn it.... I thought I'd have to take off the front and change the timing chain.... YES I'M A ROOKIE...What do you mean turn the turn it???

Oh I've got spark so Its got to be timing right????
 
Usually if it's 180* off, it will backfire or sputter.
To turn it, simply loosen the distributor, raise it up slightly, and turn the rotor 180*.....
It may not be 180* out, it may just need the housing rotated a little one direction or the other. Pull the # 1 plug and make sure it's on the compression stroke before going any further. And make sure you're getting fuel.
 
WAIT....TIME OUT....

Exactly what did you disassemble to change your rear main seal????

lets start there
 
Surely you didn't open the timing cover to change a rear main seal but probably did pull the distributer. So you rotate the balancer to timing mark at zero and drop the distruter in. It dont start. Now forget going back to the balancer mark. Just pull the distributer cap and note where the rotor is pointing, lift the distributer and turn it 1/2 a round and try to start it again.
 
68 Sedan said:
WAIT....TIME OUT....

Exactly what did you disassemble to change your rear main seal????

lets start there
Click to expand...
OK I pulled the engine, removed the the crank... to replace the seal and of course the timing chain and distributor and yes the oil pump drive gear was out. but I think.... I put it back together right.... I'm douting myself now and trying to remember it all..... NO WASN'T DRINKING THAT EVENING.
it is backfiring when I try to start it.
 
If it's popping then you have the timing off. Maybe it's just the distributor. Roll it around so the balancer is at TDC. Make a mental note of where #1 is and pop your cap. The rotor should either point at #1 or be 180 out. Anywhere else you know it's messed up, so you'll have to move the drive gear.
 
Im starting to think that the gear is one or 2 teeth off. Wat about the gear on the crank for the timing chain, is it a 3 way ( -4*, 0*, +4* ) did it go back in the right way?
 
68 Sedan said:
If it's popping then you have the timing off. Maybe it's just the distributor. Roll it around so the balancer is at TDC. Make a mental note of where #1 is and pop your cap. The rotor should either point at #1 or be 180 out. Anywhere else you know it's messed up, so you'll have to move the drive gear.
Click to expand...
Ok just changed the Distributor 180.. Now its popping threw the carb... Tried some starter fluid but nothing... Should feel compression on TDC right?
Some days....
Not having the day I thought I would on Fathers day......
 
Get away from the car and enjoy the day for a little while and then come back and start freash.
Put it at TDC with a socket on the crank pully bolt(I just shove a screw driver in the plug hole and feel for it to stop moving at the highest point), check your timing mark on the damper and make sure it is at 0,check the rotor and see if it facing #1 on the cap, if it is off you may have to pull the drive gear and move it back 1 or 2 teeth. If you can take some pics of the damper marks and the rotor at TDC maybe your just overlooking something small.
I have gone through this to the point that I was so pissed off I almost sold the car. Just remember it is only a car and it can be fixed.
 
If it's popping in the carb you're 180 out. I think someone else said it now backed up by what happened moving it 180. I bet your distributor drive is off a couple of teeth.
 
This is the 360 that is going in my 53 Mercury pick up.

100_1117.jpg



Make a mark on the dist housing where #1 plug wire is.


TDC at #1 Comp Cam has 4* built in.

100_1115.jpg


Set at 0* or damn near close to it.

100_1121.jpg


rotor is off

100_1122.jpg


gear is off by 1 tooth this will cause it to act like a *****.

100_1123.jpg


pull out turn a little drop back in, just remember it will turn when you drop it back in.

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fixed

100_1125.jpg


rotor should be facing #1 on the cap and facing twards #1 on the block.

100_1126.jpg


100_1127.jpg
 
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