Help!!!!

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Can you get that gauge regulator at Napa or other parts store? Knowing my luck prolly have to buy it from the manufacter which no longer has any in stock. I found that out with a carburator today. I have less than a week to get this thing running before Saturday the 5th. Its the 20th anniversary of The Saturday Night Cruise at Old Town!!!!
 
Yeah,,,,been busting *** all weekend to get this fish swimmin again. Then today for some brain-fartted reason the temp sender snapped flush with the intake manifold. Got to love that cheap *** brass **** they are making now a days. Oh what fun it will be to try and get that damn thing out. So riddle me this,,,if i am installing the three under-dash gauges where the hell does the sender for the temp gauge go? I thought it was to go where the other piece was but that is a big fat no. just to give and idea what I am talking about,,,it is a long spring coil covered piece with a brass piece about 2 inches long on the end that has a brass fitting above it with threads. I am lost again!!!! You guys are prolly laughing your asses off everytime you read my new post. Trust me the family is laughing everytime I start to type. I installed the oil part that is the brass fitting and a clear plastic tube in the stock oil pressure switch location. Hope that is right. I guess this engine is almost tooo simple for me thats why I am having issues. I installed an in line fuel filter today. That has to be a positive move. A friend mentioned a filter that is inside the carb, does this sound true at all before I tear it open to see? I had a guy at the parts store tell me the symptoms I am having sound like a bad EGR valve. I didnt think thiese cars had those. Can you tell I am at wits end? So I am asking again for the millionth time,,,please help!
 
They drill out pretty easy. I'd start with a 1/4" and try an easy-out. If no-go, just slowly increase the drill size until you can run a pipe tap into the hole to clear it. If you got some universal temp gauge that has too big a sender, remove the heater hose nipple out of the intake and add a "t" pipe fitting of the proper size and install the sender in it. There is no filter inside a Carter carb. I don't remember seeing one in a Stromberg or Holley either for that matter. In fact, The only one that comes to mind with an internal filter is the Rochester and it's just inside the inlet fitting. You don't have to dismantle the whole carb to get to it.
 
I bought an EZ-out set today so wish me luck. As for the carb,,,I hope to find a rebuild kit and go from there.

Now on to something i learned today. This morning I had the great privilege of meeting two of the most informative and nicest people I have meet in a very long time. I got to meet both 'Waggin' and '65coda' today. These guys are great people! Not only did I get help with tail-light lenses but also with information on my car. They told me how hard some parts are to get and how some are easier. If anyone has the chance to chat with these guys,,I recommend doing so. Even if its just for ***** and giggles. Next time fellas i will bring some cold ones!!!! Thanks again.
 
To install it in the heater hose nipple with a T fitting,,colud I install it in the same heater hose except at the firewall with a T fitting? After this the next step is the Carb. I am beginning to wonder if I should just unbolt it and put a 4bbl on there. They are easy to find and get parts for.
 
DixieCuda said:
To install it in the heater hose nipple with a T fitting,,colud I install it in the same heater hose except at the firewall with a T fitting? After this the next step is the Carb. I am beginning to wonder if I should just unbolt it and put a 4bbl on there. They are easy to find and get parts for.
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It would depend on the design of your aftermarket gauge. If it's a thermobulb type, you could put it anywhere it would pick up heat but it may not be accurate if you get too far from the heat source. The stock location is best for that. If your gauge is an electrical sender type, it has to be grounded to work so just putting it inline in the heater hose won't get the job done without running a ground circuit for it.
 
Gauges installed and working. Now the new or rather old issue that is driving me freakin bonkers... Starts okay,still a little slow. I have hardly any idle now and when I put it in gear it either stalls or has no power what so ever. I added a clear glass fuel filter to see if the gas was a mess(its not). Finding a carb for this thing has turned out to be a crap-shoot. Yeah everyone has a great price on them yet they can't get them from the manufacter.Does anyone know where I can find a 4bbl intake and carb that will work on my engine that isnt going to cost me a small fortune? I hate to say it but I am kinda desperate!!! I would love to have it in time to make the cruise tomorrow night but I am slowly watching that fade away. If you are in or close to Polk county and can help please let me know.I will check back again tonight before bed and first thing in the morning. I know I am wearing out my cry for help but really do need it!!!
 
Okay today starts another day to try and get my fish swimming again. I know ithas to be fuel related. All electrical has been switched over to new. Now to tackle the carb and fuel pump. . This should be an eye opener!! Gotta find either a replacement carburetor or the rebuild kit with floats. This would make it so much easier.

local auto parts stores can't seem to locate either one. Any ideas?

Waggin' - I meant to make it out to the swap meet but got tied up on the car and grad stuff. Besides at the meet do you know where I might be able to find a new carb replacement or the rebuild kit?
 
Okay guys and gals,,,,found a rebuild kit and new floats. I changed all the gaskets and cleaned out the carburetor of alot of trash and gunk. Put in new floats and changed the choke pull off. Installed on the motor with new vac and fuel lines. Car starts but still rough idle. I figure after I change the fuel pump and get some help in setting the carb it should run like a champ. What do you guys think? Hell I prolly could have bought a new motor by the time I am done with the nickle and dime route I have taken.
 
If you remove the plug wires and the cap and then cannot remember how to put it all back together, remember it like this. As the previous post suggested, remove the #1 sparkplug from the engine. It should be the front plug on the drivers side, and turn over the engine manually so that you can feel compression blow back against your finger when you place your finger over the spark plug hole. Now as soon as you have felt the blowback you should be at top dead center on the compression stroke and if you have the distributor cap removed and the rotor still attached to the distributor, then you should be able to look at the rotor and see if the rotor is pointing towards the #1 cylinder on the drivers side. If it is, then you can go ahead and reinstall the spark plug and cap.If it is not then you can loosen the bolt that holds down the distributor and slowly turn the distributor either left or right until you see the rotor pointing directly to the #1 cylinder. Before you lower the cap down onto the distributor, take a peek at the rotor and remember where the rotor is pointing to in relation to the cap wiring location. this will be your #1 wire on the cap. if as you have stated on your posts that the engine turns in a counter clockwise rotation then after you get the #1 wire on the cap, then you simply need to follow the sequence of rotation on the cap in a counter clockwise form. The correct wiring placement will be as follows 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. This will be your firing order. The correct alignment on the block will be as follows: drivers side front to rear cylinders 1,3,5,7 and the passenger side cylinder order front to rear as follows 2,4,6,8 if you line up the wires in this order, than you will have the correct firing order. if at that point you are still experiencing issues with your points, then you need to learn how to gap the points which is not a hard thing to do. With the cap and rotor off, you can look down into the distributor and see the point set. the points are attached to the distributorwith a screw, and the points ride on the cam lobes on the distributor which will turn and the points will open and close as the points ride against the lobes. To adjust your points you will need to manually turn over the engine until you have the point set against the pointed edge of the lobe on the distributor then using a brass flat feeler gauge, you need to loosen up the screw that holds down the points to the distributor and place your feeler gauge between the contacts using the correct gap setting. Make sure you have your battery negative cable diconnected so there will be no power passing through the points when you adjust them. Once you place the proper feeler gauge between the contact points with the cam lobe at the open position (on the point of the lobe) you can now tighten the screw that holds the points down and slide the feeler gauge out from between the contacts then assemble the distributor cap and rotor. this should be a big help in getting the car running more smoothly. You can then adjust timing with a timing light.
 
At this point, hard starting and running rough still sounds like a timing issue.

Just because you changed over all of the electrical parts doesnt mean its not an electrical issue, either.

Oh, and next time you have a problem, just dont go off and start replacing things. There are a lot of extremely knowledgeable people here, so ask questions before you do anything. Everyone here is willing to help a fellow member in need. They have certainly helped me many times.
 
Yeah I am getting the whole ''why didnt you just start with the battery'' thing from the wife too. I had a serious brainfart and thought that it should be done. I just didnt realize it was goiong to be such a huge ordeal. Never under estimate the simplicity of things.
I will try the rotor alignment today. Wish me luck. As for the vast wealth of knowledge from the members, i am in awe.
 
sounds like a lot of confusion with ur timing, points,and wires,, number one,, if you have that big giant yello accell coil,,,after you get this running correctly,,get rid of that yellow coil,,,,they are known for breaking down prematurely,,,,

as for the 3 rear window trim pieces,,the pins that the nuts are on are SUPER FRAGILE,,, there is 5 trim pieces if the trunk hinges have the trim,,and hard to find in good condition,,,

first open trunk,,unscrew the trunk hinge trim covers if they are there,,,they are a right and a left they do not interchande side to side,,,

next,,open divider door from trunk to rear compartment of car,, lay in there looking up at the area inside that thr trim on the out side is,,, you will see round plastic caps,,pop them out with a small screw driver,,get a flash lite,, you will need a small socket,,i forget the size,,and a rachet or driver handle,, on the end pieces there are 2 nuts on each,, on the middle piece i think there are 4??? look out side to see which piece is over lapping which,,and remove the nuts inside in the proper order,, have some oen hold them while u inscrew the nuts,,they may fall fight of fthe car,,they are fragile,,,when reinstalling,, make sure those same nuts still fit,,, u may need to go get new smae style nuts,, and yes like sadi earlier dont drop them in the frame of the car you will never get the nuts out,,,
 
I dont have the yellow coil. I got a polished super stock coil. Very similiar to the stock one. Now with the trim pieces,,I never got an answer or a final price. Found out through the grapevine that it is very common to get that kind of run around. I appreciate the info on it though. That way I know what to do when I do find trim.
 
you may want to try laysons reproductions,,,before all the trouble they had,, they were repopping the rear 5 piece trim set,,they had both styles the 64/5 and the 66,,66 has the fish 64/5 has the valiant emblem,,, be prepared to open your wallet,,if i remember correctly around 600 bucks for all 5 pieces,,,, they dop pop up used on E BAY also,,but it is a hot item,,,
 
Yeah i heard they canb be very pricey. Mine have the Valient emblem but I continue to look for the fish. Really that is the only piece I need. I am gooing to keep my eye out on Ebay. Thank you though
 
DixieCuda said:
Yeah i heard they canb be very pricey. Mine have the Valient emblem but I continue to look for the fish. Really that is the only piece I need. I am gooing to keep my eye out on Ebay. Thank you though
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The early '66 still used the "V" emblems, front and rear.....I'm not sure the exact changeover date but I think all the Aug and Sept '65 production dates still had the V.... maybe even into early Oct. Anyone out there have an Oct car originally with V emblems? or a late Sept with the fish? There may have been a difference on changeover dates between the Hamtramck and Los Angeles plants too. I doubt they both ran out of early emblems at the same time. I have both types for sale but all mine will have pits in the chrome.
Thanks, Mark
 
Its running, its running!!! After throwing in the towel and finally takking it to a mechanic, it is running. Mechanic found out that I had gotten a bad batch of plugs and the points were incorrectly gapped. The points parts sucks because I had paid a guy 50 bucks to set them for me. I love how people nowadays are quick to take advantage of you. Now my next big project is going to be the gauges. Wish me luck guys. Also want to thank everyone who has at some point added their help.
 
bad batch of plugs ?? ive never heard that,,,,50 bucks to set points?? some people are just ruthless,,,hope you soon have better luck,,
 
DixieCuda said:
Its running, its running!!! After throwing in the towel and finally takking it to a mechanic, it is running. Mechanic found out that I had gotten a bad batch of plugs and the points were incorrectly gapped. The points parts sucks because I had paid a guy 50 bucks to set them for me. I love how people nowadays are quick to take advantage of you. Now my next big project is going to be the gauges. Wish me luck guys. Also want to thank everyone who has at some point added their help.
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Where are you located? I'm in Plant City. Maybe I can give you a hand?
 
Yeah he said that at least 5 of them wouldn't spark and that it looked like the electrode was brittle. They looked odd when I installed them but thought it was just me. Yeah he took my 50 and then looked bent because I wouldn't tip him. Marks that place off my list of possible mechanics.
I am located in Lake Wales. I am going to start on my gauges on Thursday. Anyone know which aftermarket gauge will work for a gas gauge? Meaning electrical or mechanical or so forth. Mine finally died on me. Also what would make a carburetor make a burping sound and choke out? Thanks everyone. It is finally coming together and hopefully will make the Saturday Night Car Cruise at Old Town this weekend.
 
well glad you crossed him off your list,,,

gas guage,,,couild be a bad circuit board in your dash,, or just the ground strap at the back of the gas tank where the fuel line goes in to the sender,,
if you go t oan after market gas gauge,,you wil have to bypass the dash circuit board and and call tech for the correct gauge for a mopar circuit,,, GM,and most after market gauges are 90 ohm,,so you will probably have to call tech,,,of the gauge company you chose to see what the ohm is on mopar for after market gas gauge,,,,

you must of gotten some weird plugs
 
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