Help?!?!

[porterracing]

Okay recently did some work on my 225... Got a 264 .440 cam kit, .6 head shave and 3 angle valve job. offy intake manifold clifford dual headers and 450 cfm quick fuel carburetor and new fuel pump. Earlier I put in an petronix electronic ignition and it ran great. So, now it is running like ****. It needs ether to start most times and has a really bad engine shake because the idle is so erratic. In order for it to not shake as bad and sound better, its idling anywhere from 1200-1800 rpm. And because of this, I believe I need a stall converter as when I put the car in gear with my foot on the brake, it bogs down to like 5-700 rpm or dies. I checked compression and every cylinder is good, although when I started looking through everything I realized two things with my distributor. Vacuum advance needs 20 inches of vacuum and im only achieving around 12 inches, and even if i had the vacuum, I see no possible way for it to advance. I don't remember when I bought the electronic ignition if it rids the advance and just does it electronically? I am seriously at a loss.

 

[plumkrazee70]

Okay recently did some work on my 225... Got a 264 .440 cam kit, .6 head shave and 3 angle valve job. offy intake manifold clifford dual headers and 450 cfm quick fuel carburetor and new fuel pump. Earlier I put in an petronix electronic ignition and it ran great. So, now it is running like ****. It needs ether to start most times and has a really bad engine shake because the idle is so erratic. In order for it to not shake as bad and sound better, its idling anywhere from 1200-1800 rpm. And because of this, I believe I need a stall converter as when I put the car in gear with my foot on the brake, it bogs down to like 5-700 rpm or dies. I checked compression and every cylinder is good, although when I started looking through everything I realized two things with my distributor. Vacuum advance needs 20 inches of vacuum and im only achieving around 12 inches, and even if i had the vacuum, I see no possible way for it to advance. I don't remember when I bought the electronic ignition if it rids the advance and just does it electronically? I am seriously at a loss.

Because of the changes, I would recurve your timing and then tune the carb.

1. Plug vacuum advance at the carb.
2. Insert vacuum gauge on the carb.
3. Loosen the distributor hold down.
3. Advance the distributor (not sure which way on a slant)
4. Keep advancing until you get highest vacuum and/or it will start when hot without starter kick back
5. Check new inital timing on balancer (record that number)
6. Recurve your distributor to achieve new total timing number (You will need a kit for your distributor)
6a. You measure total timing by taking initial + whatever mechanical advance you get. The kit will allow for various advance setups.
7. Retune carb
8. Not sure about the vacuum advance, if you cam doesn't produce enough vacuum. I have never used vacuum advance, so maybe others can chime in.

I hope that helps get you in the right direction.

 

[65wgn440]

Running an EGR valve ? Stuck open ?

 

[Killer6]

Okay recently did some work on my 225... Got a 264 .440 cam kit, .6 head shave and 3 angle valve job. offy intake manifold clifford dual headers and 450 cfm quick fuel carburetor and new fuel pump. Earlier I put in an petronix electronic ignition and it ran great. So, now it is running like ****. It needs ether to start most times and has a really bad engine shake because the idle is so erratic. In order for it to not shake as bad and sound better, its idling anywhere from 1200-1800 rpm. And because of this, I believe I need a stall converter as when I put the car in gear with my foot on the brake, it bogs down to like 5-700 rpm or dies. I checked compression and every cylinder is good, although when I started looking through everything I realized two things with my distributor. Vacuum advance needs 20 inches of vacuum and im only achieving around 12 inches, and even if i had the vacuum, I see no possible way for it to advance. I don't remember when I bought the electronic ignition if it rids the advance and just does it electronically? I am seriously at a loss.

Whose cam, & what valve lash specs? Your car should start & run like a champ w/o vacuum advance at all, what is Your base & total timing w/just mech. advance? What Intake
lobe centerline is it installed at,...specified on the cam card? Make sure You don't
have a vac leak anywhere or forgotten hose not hooked up(We've all done it).
Did You check the float levels on the new carb? Easy for You w/the electric pump.
You'd be shocked how many times they're not right, from being kicked 'round on
the ride to Your door.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Okay recently did some work on my 225... Got a 264 .440 cam kit, .6 head shave and 3 angle valve job. offy intake manifold clifford dual headers and 450 cfm quick fuel carburetor and new fuel pump. Earlier I put in an petronix electronic ignition and it ran great. So, now it is running like ****. It needs ether to start most times and has a really bad engine shake because the idle is so erratic. In order for it to not shake as bad and sound better, its idling anywhere from 1200-1800 rpm. And because of this, I believe I need a stall converter as when I put the car in gear with my foot on the brake, it bogs down to like 5-700 rpm or dies. I checked compression and every cylinder is good, although when I started looking through everything I realized two things with my distributor. Vacuum advance needs 20 inches of vacuum and im only achieving around 12 inches, and even if i had the vacuum, I see no possible way for it to advance. I don't remember when I bought the electronic ignition if it rids the advance and just does it electronically? I am seriously at a loss.

Lets start with;
it needs ether to start,. and idles at 12 inches, and has a bad shake, and bogs or dies.
IMO the engine is either not sucking air through the carb, or not sucking air at all. The fact that you had to crank the idle up bears testimony to that . The confusing part is
that the compression is "good" whatever that means. My gauge does not have opinions stated on it, only numbers.
So, If you have compression over 160 which IMO would be very good, then I would say that your engine is sucking wind somewhere not thru the carb, or some camlobes are wiped.
But if your compression is down at 100psi, IMO very poor, then I would reset the valve lash, a lil looser, and try again.
If your cylinder pressure is between 100 and 160 then I would do a leakdown test with a fully warm engine.
We can spend days chasing fuel or ignition rabbit trails. Lets make sure you have an engine first.
In the meantime go put your hand on the tailpipe while the engine is warming up, and tell me there is only pressure coming out the tailpipe! and none trying to go in!
I'm kindof thinking you zinged her up a bit high and bent the intake valves.
You didn't by any chance miss a shift did you?

 

[RustyRatRod]

No way in hell that cam needs a stall converter. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.