Hemi swap oil pan questions

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This is the nightmare of doing the swap. You try to use what you have to save money and half the stuff doesn’t work. That’s why I just got fed up with it and did a coil over and power rack. Yeh it cost more but for me it just made my life a lot easier. I waisted so much money because I didn’t research everything and back then there wasn’t much to research. I bought a duster for front end parts and wanted the power steering that didn’t work. Tried to save money and bought a tubular kmember with a power rack, received it and the spindles I provided where welded on backwards and the company CAP(crap) went out of business 2 weeks later. So I threw in the towel and got the Alterkation. I did get my money back on the Duster I sold the hood for twice the amount I paid for the car and gave the car away to a guy that needed some parts off of it. My wife had a fit when I brought that car home not one fender, door, hood , trunk was the same color and it had a bumper sticker that said “UGLY GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE BONE”
 
Just to add to everyone else's experiences...
69 Barracuda 6.1 TTi Mounts, Schumacher Posi-loc Isolators (Modified Passenger to keep stock oil filter location)
QA1 K-Member (Retains Torsion Bars and Stock Front Suspension and Biscuit Mount Geometry, until my mod.)
73 up Disc Brake spindles I think... could be 72 I guess it's a little fuzzy at this point.
75-76 New Yorker/Cordoba type Large Pin-On Caliper Brackets. New/Reman replacement Mopar Calipers for same.
Mopar style replacement 11.75" Rotors,
SPC Double adjustable UCAs
Adjustable Strut rods are from Hotchkis
Pre-73 Pitman Arm, Idler Arm and Drag Link. This I know fore sure.
Mopar 16:1 Manual steering box courtesy of Firm Feel
TTi Long Tube Headers (Part Number TTI 61HC-C5, Polished Ceramic with Thermal Barrier)
QA1 Lower Control Arms (This was all together with Stock LCA and they worked too)
QA1 Front Sway Bar... Had to change to QA1 LCA to use QA1 Sway Bar or switch to 73 up stock LCA with sway bar tabs.

I HAD a Milodon oil pan when the engine was on a USCT engine cart so not in the car. The center link cleared but was very close to the drain plug when turned full lock in either direction.
Read several users posts of leaks and decided to switch to Holley Cast Pan. That's what is in the car now.
Drag link, Pitman Arm, Idler Arm and Tie Rod Ends all clear the pan...
Yahtzee! Karmic? Luck? Mopar Gods decided to toss me a bone? I have no ******* clue, but it clears... Today.

Some installation notes:
The Schumacher Posi-Loc Isolators are taller than regular passenger car stock rubber isolators.
That could be assisting with maybe an 1/8th - 3/16" additional height above the drag link.
I've heard that Trucks used taller isolators too. Can't confirm...
I added a small shim to the driver's side motor mount, sandwiched between the isolator and the K-Member to add a touch more header/steering box clearance. This might also help with the drag link clearance too.
Each of these together may just add up to a nice final engine height in the engine bay... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"

I might end up doing some more adjusting/shimming but for now I'm going to wait until after starting and running it to check clearances everywhere. It's definitely close in a number of areas but no unwanted touching.

Trial and error, or learned the hard way...
Hotchkis Front Sway Bar will not work with QA1 K-Member, need to use QA1 Sway Bar. Bar Mounting location!
QA1 Front Sway Bar will not work with Pre 73 LCA Sway Bar Tab location. SB Tabs need to be in the later position.
So I switched to QA1 LCAs.
Probably could have cut the tabs off and moved them but decided to just change the LCAs out.
So, more leftovers to add to my leftover parts collection.
Rebuilt, boxed and stiffened pair of A-Body LCA, powder coated gloss black...
Sway bar tabs in the pre 73 location.

So, this much I know. Your mileage may vary! I make no promises. ;-)
 
Last edited:
'Cuda_ragtop said:
Just to add to everyone else's experiences...
69 Barracuda 6.1 TTi Mounts, Schumacher Posi-loc Isolators (Modified Passenger to keep stock oil filter location)
QA1 K-Member (Retains Torsion Bars and Stock Front Suspension and Biscuit Mount Geometry)
73 up Disc Brake spindles I think... could be 72 I guess it's a little fuzzy at this point.
75-76 New Yorker/Cordoba type Large Pin-On Caliper Brackets. New/Reman replacement Mopar Calipers for same.
Mopar style replacement 11.75" Rotors,
SPC Double adjustable UCAs
Adjustable Strut rods are from Hotchkis
Pre-73 Pitman Arm, Idler Arm and Drag Link. This I know fore sure.
Mopar 16:1 Manual steering box courtesy of Firm Feel
TTi Long Tube Headers (Part Number TTI 61HC-C5, Polished Ceramic with Thermal Barrier)
QA1 Lower Control Arms (This was all together with Stock LCA and they worked too)
QA1 Front Sway Bar... Had to change to QA1 LCA to use QA1 Sway Bar or switch to 73 up stock LCA with sway bar tabs.

I HAD a Milodon oil pan when the engine was on a USCT engine cart so not in the car. The center link cleared but was very close to the drain plug when turned full lock in either direction.
Read several users posts of leaks and decided to switch to Holley Cast Pan. That's what is in the car now.
Drag link, Pitman Arm, Idler Arm and Tie Rod Ends all clear the pan...
Yahtzee! Karmic? Luck? Mopar Gods decided to toss me a bone? I have no ******* clue, but it clears... Today.

Some installation notes:
The Schumacher Posi-Loc Isolators are taller than regular passenger car stock rubber isolators.
That could be assisting with maybe an 1/8th - 3/16" additional height above the drag link.
I've heard that Trucks used taller isolators too. Can't confirm...
I added a small shim to the driver's side motor mount, sandwiched between the isolator and the K-Member to add a touch more header/steering box clearance. This might also help with the drag link clearance too.
Each of these together may just add up to a nice final engine height in the engine bay... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"

I might end up doing some more adjusting/shimming but for now I'm going to wait until after starting and running it to check clearances everywhere. It's definitely close in a number of areas but no touching.

Trial and error, or learned the hard way...
Hotchkis Front Sway Bar will not work with QA1 K-Member, need to use QA1 Sway Bar. Bar Mounting location!
QA1 Front Sway Bar will not work with Pre 73 LCA Sway Bar Tab location. SB Tabs need to be in the later position.
So I switched to QA1 LCAs.
Probably could have cut the tabs off and moved them but decided to just change the LCAs out.
So, more leftovers to add to my leftover parts collection.
Rebuilt, boxed and stiffened pair of A-Body LCA, powder coated gloss black...
Sway bar tabs in the pre 73 location.

So, this much I know. Your mileage may vary! I make no promises. ;-)
Click to expand...
Do you have any pictures of that set up?
Pat
 
DionR said:
Pretty sure the ‘73+ manual box pitman arm is for a small sector box and would allow someone to use the later center link with the earlier PS box.

To be clear, I don’t believe there is anything off the shelf that will work in a G3 swap with the stock PS box.
Click to expand...
I used a 73 manual pitman on my 69 PS box.. Also using 73 idler and centerlink.
 
Dantra said:
I used a 73 manual pitman on my 69 PS box.. Also using 73 idler and centerlink.
Click to expand...
Did you still use your 69 KFrame? That is my question if i can still use my Kframe or do i have to switch to a 73 up kframe.
thanks
Pat
 
Just doing my first day of searching for parts but finding out right now that the 73 and up center link is not to be found. I haven't tried any junk yards yet but from my first search no one sells them brand new unless you guys have any sources.
just curious
Pat
 
They do not sell center links. I’m sure someone on this site has it though post a wanted ad.
 
fuzzman said:
Just doing my first day of searching for parts but finding out right now that the 73 and up center link is not to be found. I haven't tried any junk yards yet but from my first search no one sells them brand new unless you guys have any sources.
just curious
Pat
Click to expand...
Try this guy.. I didn't buy this one

Screenshot_20240217-194438_Chrome.jpg
 
I have another question about when you use the block off plate for the oil filter and install the remote filter. There are two oil sensors that get removed do you have to plumb those sensors back into the remote lines? One appears to be the oil pressure sensor the other might be a sensor to tell the computer that oil pressure is present. Any thoughts
Pat Faley
 
So my swap is getting assembled right now as a roller to get it home. I have the qa1 k frame. 6.4 with tti mounts, Holley pan. Borgeson gear box. Tti long tubes, 73 center link, Bergman pitman and idler. Should be assembled in a week or two and thanks to Dantra I post pics for you. I have never had this all together so I can't tell you how mine works but once it is maybe we get you some solid answers
 
This is what I came up with hopefully this will work fine I was able to use the 45 degree oil filter hook up and mounted the tti mount. What do you guys think
Pat Faley

IMG_0171.jpeg
 
Not 100% on this but I think the bolt is gonna hit the isolator. Mine isn't here right to get a pic for you. if it works I'm going to try it on mine
 
Cuddy said:
Not 100% on this but I think the bolt is gonna hit the isolator. Mine isn't here right to get a pic for you. if it works I'm going to try it on mine
Click to expand...
I figured if I have to I will alter the isolator to make it work
 
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