Hemi swap with factory 6spd?

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bbvaliant

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I really want to do a G3 swap with a manual transmission, and I want to try to keep it as simple as possible. To me that means keeping as much of the factory stuff as possible (i.e., engine/trans, EFI, computer, harness, PDC, gas pedal, dash harness, and keyfob ignition). All of the G3/MT combos I've seen for sale online have the floating shifter setup, presumably from a wrecked Challenger, and I was wondering has anyone used a factory 6spd in one of their swaps? And if so, what did you do about the shifter?
Thanks.
 
Using all that stuff and keeping it simple are polar opposites unless you are a genius with wiring, can fabricate almost anything and have your own Chrysler programmer. Then you can figure out how to make the trans work with a non slip yoke and way to shift it without the remote shifter.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Using all that stuff and keeping it simple are polar opposites unless you are a genius with wiring, can fabricate almost anything and have your own Chrysler programmer. Then you can figure out how to make the trans work with a non slip yoke and way to shift it without the remote shifter.
Click to expand...

He's right, you are probably better off getting a T56 Magnum. I have the factory 6spd with my 5.7. I have yet to drive it and it should all work but there is a lot of custom fab and things to do to make it work. Ie. Adapter to custom driveshaft with a built in slip, custom transmission mount, working out a way to get a speedo as there is no VSS for electronic speedos or cog drive for a mechanical, delete remote shifter and buy an adapter to bolt in the top off ebay. If you buy a magnum it has all these things designed in the box for you: option of electronic or mechanical speedo, slip yoke, a couple of options for top mounted shifter location, and a spot on the bottom of the box to bolt a normal gearbox rubber/urethene mount.

I got mine with a clutch, bellhousing, the whole kit, cheap. BUT after I had to do all those mods it's a lot easier to get the magnum. Just an opinion from someone who has done it.
 
You're also probably looking at a different bellhousing unless you really want to cut things up to fit the factory one. Starter location can be an issue depending on your exhaust and suspension choice. The flywheel and clutch are bigger as well, so you're cutting out quite a bit of the firewall. Not saying it can't be done, just that it's probably more work to go that way as opposed to potentially more money to go the piecemeal way.
 
Thanks for the great info guys, I hadn't even thought about the driveshaft/slipyolk issue. I don't mind cutting up the floors of a /6-auto car, but making the custom transmission mount/crossbar could also be an issue... Thanks for the actual-experience info Boony405hp, can you give me an example of the adapter on ePay that you mentioned? I did a bunch of searches but only come up with the hurst pistol grip replacement and the billet competition short shifter (both using the stock floating shifter setup)...

I know this won't be a cheap swap, but part of my hopeful plan on reusing as much factory stuff as possible was to reduce the nickel-and-dime-to-death conversion costs. Why buy a brand new crate 6.1/6.4 engine for $7-9k and then have to buy the ps/alt/ac accessories ($1k?) and an aftermarket computer ($3k?) and a flywheel/clutch ($1k?) and a transmission ($3k?) etc? If I can buy a wrecked Challenger for $7k or less and have almost everything already, that would save a ton of cash.

I know and accept that I'll have to keep the factory cam and tune in it, but at this point I don't care about every last tenth of a second at the dragstrip, I just want get-in-and-go anytime EFI convenience while still having a fun car to drive...
 
Here is an example of the shifter relocation from ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFFSET-SHIF...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f7be7bcf&vxp=mtr

There was someone selling a cheaper version that I cant find anymore. Not sure about the quality though.

The Driveshaft shop can make you a custom aluminum driveshaft for about 800 with the slip yoke built in. Supposedly the Chevy guys have been doing for a little while now with the new Camaro transmissions(same tr6060)

I have the same thing going on with my swap. Picked up a 2012 R/T w manual trans. 35k miles for 3800. I did run into the starter problem being on the passenger side, which your not going to get around with the stock bellhousing and transmission. That being said depending on your final goals this makes a Tubular K Member a no brainer. Especially if you need all new front suspension, steering box, ect.

I would definitely try to find an 09-10 model though as there seems to be some factory encryption in the PCM that no one can seem to bypass on the newer models. As far as pulling everything out of the car to use for wiring, I had the same plan. Let me tell you this, there is A LOT of wiring in these new cars. Also that being said one that's been in an accident will be tons of fun to rip it all out with all of the different sensor locations.
I've opted to just try and use the engine and pcm from mine, the problem with this is there are other sensors and modules that talk to the pcm to tell it that the rest of the car is ok to run. To bypass all of that you need to have your pcm flashed. Now we are back to the model year problem. If I could do it over, I'd definitely look for an 09-10 model. But I got a great deal on mine so it may balance out in the end.
 
The less expensive shifter is from Core Shifters. They don't seem to have one listed on ebay anymore.
 
Good thread, I have the exact same questions. I live in truck country and it is easy to get truck engines around here. I have pondered getting a truck engine for parts to use on a rebuilt long block.
For those those of you that have done this swap. Would it be better to get a truck engine and add a T56 or get buy a car engine with the 6 spd?
 
There's really fairly little different between the two engines, so it's usually which one you can get a better deal on. The timing covers are different, which leads to different accessory locations and water pump inlet/outlet locations. The intake is also different and manifolds, but most people switch manifolds or go headers to work with their application. My current setup is a car engine with a truck cover and a T56.
 
Also to mention, any factory hemi/tr6060 is going to be an Eagle motor and will not have MDS. Trucks '08 and down are not Eagles.
 
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