Holley/Demon Carb stumble

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Interesting video.

They didn't show the QF metering block which I wish they would have. The Brawler block has 4 emulsion holes with only one blocked. IIRC those emulsion holes are either .031 or .033 and with three holes open that's a quite a bit of emulsion.
 
mderoy340 said:
qf q series come with 4x.028
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I had a ProForm carb...a 750. A friend bought it and them sold it to my cousin. I called him and it says on my hand written paperwork that it has 4 emulsion holes at .031 each.

That's what the Brawler carb looks like to me...a ProForm copy. Which isn't surprising as QF was or still does use those same pieces.
 
The new aluminum main bodies are nicer than the original Zinc Proform bodies.
But I think that’s what you get if you buy a Proform body now.

If you noticed in the video, one of the 4 emulsion holes on the Brawler block was plugged.

We’ve put a handful of them on a few motors over the last couple of years, and they’ve worked out well.

I wasn’t very impressed with that Holley Track Warrior 750 needing 86/96 jetting for a 600hp motor.
Generally, when you have jets that big in a carb that small, the part throttle is super rich(which is probably why they said it wouldn’t make a good street/strip carb in that video).

Had a similar experience with a SB Ford oval track motor.
It was also around 600hp.
Owner had a new Holley XP 750....... needed tons of jet, and leaned out a lot as rpm went up.
Played with jets and bleeds........ didn’t really come around.
It exhibited that super rich at part throttle trend.

The 3 or 4 year old Baker 750 they’d been using was acting up, so they bought the new carb.
Made a few pulls with the Baker, which was uncharacteristicly erratic.
It had never had a bowl off it.

Popped the bowls, new metering block and bowl gaskets, needle and seat o-rings, PV...... back on the motor....... ran excellent.
Crushed the new Holley.
 
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bought a HR650 QFT carb a few years ago. plain jane cast blocks, three emulsion holes, .031"
i leaned the IFR's a step and it runs fine on a very mild 318. box stock jetting and bleeds.
 
skrews said:
If your ordering parts make sure to get a power valve plug for the rear, along with the notched float and jet extension kit. Also make sure you have those plastic vent baffles/whistles on both blocks. Another thing to verify is that the bowl vent tubes are not up tight against the air filter lid.
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Parts are order!
I have 1/4" between the top of the air filter and a straight edge. however My air cleaner lid is domed and give me a total of 1 inch of air clearance.
Not a problem but, something i would have never thought about or considered to be a problem. :thankyou:
 
All my parts are ordered and the last piese will be here on the 31.

What, and where, should i be looking for damage to the $5.00 metering block i got off of e-bay.
How will i know it worth trying.

YR said something about it could be a alcohol metering block. but after i bought it the description of the part when a way as it was sold.
 
All my parts are ordered and the last piese will be here on the 31.

What, and where, should i be looking for damage to the $5.00 metering block i got off of e-bay.
How will i know it is worth trying.

YR said something about it could be a alcohol metering block. but after i bought it, the description of the part, when a way, as it was sold.

yellow rose said:
Must be a misprint on the 148 main jet. Hope that's not correct. That's an alcohol jet.
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so i when out to get the metering block off of my 3310. Its not a 3310 its 1850 that i put the duel feed fuel bowl on.
I jumped on ebay and found another block that is for a 3310 and bought it.

will a 1850 work? i have 2 of them.
I also have a list #6160 carb that was holley original equipment on a 383/440 (1850 design)

Don't really want to disassemble that 6160 as it was the Best carb i ran on my 340. Way better, than its look alike 1850.

So i start to do some research. So that i can buy a spare metering block or maybe 2? There or a LOT OF METERING BLOCK on ebay that only have the stamped # on the metering blocks that has nothing to do with the list# (3310) or the metering block # 134-131) I can't seem to find any info out there to cross reference the same number on the block with.......well with any thing.
the stamping are numbers like 11761 or 7492 or even a 6909 8101. That last one the claim is for a 72-74 dodge..........dodge what? carb what? I don't know.

I have 2 metering block coming my way that are sapoaby off of a 3310...........how the, bank-it-e-blank do i know that's what they came off of?
 
Cudafever said:
so i when out to get the metering block off of my 3310. Its not a 3310 its 1850 that i put the duel feed fuel bowl on.
I jumped on ebay and found another block that is for a 3310 and bought it.

will a 1850 work? i have 2 of them.
I also have a list #6160 carb that was holley original equipment on a 383/440 (1850 design)

Don't really want to disassemble that 6160 as it was the Best carb i ran on my 340. Way better, than its look alike 1850.

So i start to do some research. So that i can buy a spare metering block or maybe 2? There or a LOT OF METERING BLOCK on ebay that only have the stamped # on the metering blocks that has nothing to do with the list# (3310) or the metering block # 134-131) I can't seem to find any info out there to cross reference the same number on the block with.......well with any thing.
the stamping are numbers like 11761 or 7492 or even a 6909 8101. That last one the claim is for a 72-74 dodge..........dodge what? carb what? I don't know.

I have 2 metering block coming my way that are sapoaby off of a 3310...........how the, bank-it-e-blank do i know that's what they came off of?
Click to expand...


You are going to screw around and spend enough money that you could have purchased a couple of billet metering blocks and been much further ahead. If for no other reason than the easily adjustable power valve channel restrictors.
 
This is how i'm starting, to feel as well.!.....?........
 
The metering blocks that will work have the emulsion holes located as seen in the picture. 2 E holes (.026-.027 diameter) and 1 kill bleed (.026-.027 diameter) in the upper dog leg. The 1850 blocks don't have the proper kill bleed.
2BBL-02-1200x800.jpg
 
Post some close up pics of the metering blocks you have, showing the E hole side of the block. like in the pic above.
 
I have a pencil looking finger vice that has a bunch of little tiny bits, that i've have never used.
will see if it go up to .027"
 
Some of the primary blocks for the lower cfm carbs also have “emulsion tubes” pressed into the main wells.
I’m not sure if 1850’s ever came with that style of blocks or not, but 4777’s did(still do?).

Those usually only work well on whatever they came on.

They don’t seem to work well at all on the aftermarket main bodies.
 
It’s been many years since I built those Proform bodied things, but at the time you could buy new replacement 4779 metering blocks for like $30-35.
I didn’t have to modify them at all.
 
There a lot more $$$ now! If i could buy new one for $40, i would have past on the 5 dollar and the 40 dollar ones i just bought.(for a 3310 not 4779)
 
For the most recent “ground up” carb I put together I used QFT billet blocks.......34-8 and 34-9 iirc.

I don’t think the Brawlers were out yet when I bought all the big parts....... but I’m sure I have about the same $$$ into it as just buying a new race Brawler.

I wouldn’t have bothered with it, but I already had all the small stuff you need to finish one up.
Accelerator pump levers, covers, and screws, base plate screws, floats and float hardware, float bowl screws, etc.
 
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