Homemade driveshaft loop

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Princess Valiant

Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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anyone running a homemade driveshaft loop? looking for ideas for a simple but effective design on the cheap.

I never thought they were necessary on a stock build but after seeing the damage that was caused by a u-joint letting go......I am thinking cheap insurance.
 
You can buy em from summit or jegs for $30. Not sure how much cheaper you wanna get.
 

Rani, can you cut, bend, drill and weld a plate stock steel?
The basic driveshaft loops are done this way.
You'll need about in 4 feet length, 1-1/2 - 2 inch wide by a 1/4 or so of flat stock.
A nice BFH to hit the stock around a anvil or vice end for the loop.
When I bolt it to the floor, I like the idea of having an additional length of flat stock on the inside of the car to further brace it for strength. Overkill? Maybe.
 
The front edge needs to be within 6" of the u-joint centerline. I always set mine even with joint centerline.

2" wide .250 wall if using flat stock. I think I used a piece of 6" SCH40 iron pipe.
 
The u.s. cartools is a nice piece worth the money...the word "cheap" should not be used when it comes to safety equipment..
 
stroked340 said:
the word "cheap" should not be used when it comes to safety equipment..
Click to expand...

Agreed! I doubt my car which is mostly stock and no where near a race car would ever need this but for as valuable as the car is to me, seems reasonable to spring for something nice. Even though I think I can build it myself.....I weld. The car tools one does seem easier though.
 
Cracks pictures are worth double my words through the illustration. Copy that from flat stock!
 
tqfastfish said:
Classic industries sells a Lakewood one that bolts to the floor for $36.99 and there 20% off deal ends tonight I think
Click to expand...

They will disappear from under the car with an alarming regularity if you don't reinforce the floor pan.
 
I agree the word cheap and safety are not to be used in the sentence. The US Car Tools loop is good and easy to install I did drill one hole through the floor and into the top of the loop and nut and bolt it, because the loop would hit the floor and make a nice banging sound. I have had a driveshaft break because some other knuckle head had put oil down on the track and I ran through it. it broke the tail shaft the drive shaft in two pieces and the rear locked up when the driveshaft drove into the ground and jacked to car up into the air. And it ripped a big whole in the floor of the car. None of it ended up being cheap to fix.
 
Crackedbacks loop looks great.

Hey cracked back, I'd like to copy yours on my cuda. What was the diameter and thickness of the steel tubing you used. Thats a really nice setup. I like the reinforcements in the floor with welded in nuts too. This way its easily removable.

Thanks in advance
Matt

BTW Rani, no need for a loop at the back. If the rear joint lets go the drive shaft and yoke will fall completely out of the car. Also in addition to a safety loop if you feel the need to have one, rebuild the driveshaft with high quality u joints, and grease em regularly, and you will probably never have a u joint failure.
 
Yes! Just up front for the loop. Your good to go!
 
I bought a universal one, Lakewood I think. I had to shorten the loops a little and redrill a couple of the mounting holes. Actually fits the floorpan nicely and uses one of the seat track studs plus an extra reinforced bolt through the floor.
 

Attachments

moparmat2000 said:
Crackedbacks loop looks great.

Hey cracked back, I'd like to copy yours on my cuda. What was the diameter and thickness of the steel tubing you used. Thats a really nice setup. I like the reinforcements in the floor with welded in nuts too. This way its easily removable.

Thanks in advance
Matt

BTW Rani, no need for a loop at the back. If the rear joint lets go the drive shaft and yoke will fall completely out of the car. Also in addition to a safety loop if you feel the need to have one, rebuild the driveshaft with high quality u joints, and grease em regularly, and you will probably never have a u joint failure.
Click to expand...

The loop is 2" wide piece of 6" sch 40 iron round pipe with 2" x .250 flat stock arms. Inside I think the I used .125 plate on the 3 reinforcing plates. Bolts are 3/8" and one 3/8" stud at 12 o'clock on the loop.

You can use 5" pipe with a stock driveshaft, but, you'll need to make a spacer at 12 o'clock to get it centered on yout yoke.

I had to massage the tunnel just a little to get the loop flush up top.
 
i built mine from a universal kit. i welded on extra material to the ends and attached both sides to the sub frame connectors. i also placed it so that my front seat bolts go thru the drive shaft loop. makes everything a little safer.

 
crackedback said:
The loop is 2" wide piece of 6" sch 40 iron round pipe with 2" x .250 flat stock arms. Inside I think the I used .125 plate on the 3 reinforcing plates. Bolts are 3/8" and one 3/8" stud at 12 o'clock on the loop.

You can use 5" pipe with a stock driveshaft, but, you'll need to make a spacer at 12 o'clock to get it centered on yout yoke.

I had to massage the tunnel just a little to get the loop flush up top.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the dimensions and advice
 
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