Hooker Competition Headers

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Mike D

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I have a new set of Hooker Competition Headers that I'm going to install on my 360 with "J" heads and fit it into a 67 Dart GT.

I bought a set of Stage 8 locking header bolts with the intent of replacing the studs.
I was looking at the outer most screws on the "J" head and with the studs removed I see the studs actually penetrate the water jackets. Can I replace those studs with bolts and if so what is the preferred method of sealing the bolts.

Also is there any benefit to removing the material between the flange of the headers in order to spread the outer most tubes to make it easier to bolt them up.

Lastly, the engine is out of the car at the moment and I was wondering is it recommended or possible to install the headers on the motor and drop it back in. I realize I have to drop the suspension that goes through the drivers side of the header tubes.

I stole a photo from another post to show the flange material I was wondering about removing.

Thanks for the help guys.
Hookers.JPG
 
Pull the studs, and RUN a TAP in the holes to clean up the threads. I used some sealer on the bolt threads. Pick your brand. Permatex or whatever.
I have the ceramic Hooker Super Comp headers on my 340. I personally would NOT remove the flange material. You will need a 7/16" open end wrench for this chore on the inboard bolts of the first and last cylinders. I also have the stage 8 fasteners. There is a technique of starting those two bolts, maybe a couple threads in then populate the other bolt holes. I ground the lock flange on some of the Stage 8 bolts for a better fit. I will get pics soon.
 
i have to jump in and ask, because i cant seem to see a clear answer anywhere, do either of the torsion bars actually pass through the hedman headers? or is it just easier to install them with the torsion bar out of the way?
 
You can not instal the engine with the headers on into the car and removing the T bars would help with clearance but it would probably be more of a PIA to do so. The T bars do not go through the header.

Before getting the engine in, install the header(s) and hold it away from the engine with bungi cords. Leave the header rapped in the shipping plastic to retain best cosmetic looks after your done.
IMO, the studs at the ends are very helpful to install the header. You can hang the header (& sometimes the gasket as well) on the studs so you can start with the bolts on the tight bend tubes first.
 
well as for me, my engine is already in. so its going to be a pain to install them either way. i just wanted to know if the bars absolutely had to come out. if not then i'm going to leave them in no matter how much harder it makes the install haha
 
340fourspeedDuster said:
Pull the studs, and RUN a TAP in the holes to clean up the threads. I used some sealer on the bolt threads. Pick your brand. Permatex or whatever.
I have the ceramic Hooker Super Comp headers on my 340. I personally would NOT remove the flange material. You will need a 7/16" open end wrench for this chore on the inboard bolts of the first and last cylinders. I also have the stage 8 fasteners. There is a technique of starting those two bolts, maybe a couple threads in then populate the other bolt holes. I ground the lock flange on some of the Stage 8 bolts for a better fit. I will get pics soon.
Click to expand...

IMG_2813.JPG
 
I wrap the headers in "Shrink wrap" that way the don't scratch the inner fenders. I also like to pull the center link. A good floor jack and a slice of 2x4 under the oil pan.
 
Thanks for all of the tips guys. Today I installed the engine. I'd set the headers in place and then lowered the motor in . I had to do some finagling in order to get everything in and it had it's share of frustrations.

But now that it's in, well mostly in, the engine won't sit in the mount on the passenger side. I think the header is hitting the torsion bar and the suspension.

What am I doing wrong?

Image.jpg
 
Are the header flanges up against the head with the Stage 8 bolts ready to go into the heads? I believe I have the same headers as your build, Hooker Super Comps. My fit was tight with lots of adjustment as the engine dropped into the bay. I have power steering on the drivers side, and 1.03" torsion bars, it all went into the car. It sounds like the engine is ****-eyed in the bay, or there is an issue with your engine mounts. Hopefully this car was not in a wreck and the subframe tweaked. Can we get a pic of the pass side engine mount?
 
I pulled the engine because I had a leak at the rear seal, then I discovered the mounts were completly sheared so I installed new rubber mounts. The car had Hooker Super Comps when I both it 3 years ago but the previous owner bottomed out one of the tubes on the drivers side so I decided to replace them when I pulled the motor. So I'm not going in with anything that wasn't in there before. However, you make a good point on the mounts. The mount on the passenger side isn't sitting on the "K" member. It's up about 1/4" because the header is sitting on the torsion bar and it's hitting the other suspension pieces as shown in the photo.

The car wasn't hit. It was a survivor California car that was purchased by a Mopar mechanic who put the 360 in it with a 4 speed and 8 3/4 rear end.

I think the engine needs to be lifted and moved but I'm beginning to second guess that.

I have a couple of bolts installed in each header, but I didn't put them all in yet. Do I have the engine mounts installed on the block in the right location or should the mounts be installed forward of the engine block flange? Could that be my issue?

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My 1975 Duster has different mounts from the factory. You have the earlier generation pancake style. Mine look like these. Maybe someone with the earlier style can chime in.

Screen Shot 2017-05-21 at 7.39.51 AM.png
 
If you have the original T-bars, you may want to crank them up just a bit to help alleviate the chance of smashing the bottom tube of the headers on speed bumps. Have the car aligned and headlights readjusted after you are happy with the stance. I too smashed my first set of headers due to worn factory T-bars and speed bumps. If you have the engine out, I highly suggest getting new 1.03" T-bars! It will firm up the suspension and corner very flat as opposed the 40 YO .865" T-bars. When the engine is out, this is the time to perform engine bay work. Pics are the current ride height of the car. Wheels are 17" US Mags. Tires are BFG 26.4" tall tires. I have about 3" of GC to the header flange.

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The Torsion Bar appears to be 1 1/8". She sits a little lower than your ride but I like the ride height as it is. I learned to be gentle on speed bumps.
 
Headers hitting stuff?

Yea! What's new about that?!?!?!

Nothing!!!!
Might be "Hammer time!"

Double check everything, you may get away with simple shims under the engine mounts.
 
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