Horsepower 410 stroker build

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Jonnylightening

Jonnylightening

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Was watching an old episode of Horsepower on youtube and started scratching my head. They had shown how they had the block done up for the kit. When they get the block back it has factory main bolts in it. Then they show how they threw ARP bolts in their place??? Am I missing something?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Fyi You don't necessarily need to line hone for arp, especially bolts.
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I always thought it was a must. I have a block that was align honed with factory bolts and wanted to throw ARP bolts or studs in it and all the posts I've been ready state you must have it align honed with those bolt/studs
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Fyi You don't necessarily need to line hone for arp, especially bolts.
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Right. Studs are one thing, bolts don't need to be aligned honed for as long as everything was good from the rip.
 
Jonnylightening said:
Yea block was fresh from the machine shop. I have it assembled now but pan is still off
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It should be fine if you replace the main cap bolts. Just replace and torque them in sequence and check to make sure there's no binding each time you torque a cap. I've done it a few times and not had any trouble. There's no reason if it's good now for it to change.
 
If Im able to I'd like to
RustyRatRod said:
It should be fine if you replace the main cap bolts. Just replace and torque them in sequence and check to make sure there's no binding each time you torque a cap. I've done it a few times and not had any trouble. There's no reason if it's good now for it to change.
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Do they make an ARP bolt set for a windage tray?
 
I don't see any. Mopar Performance used to off them but that's gonna be tough to find. Looks like the stud kits are all there is. I know there have been people stud the mains before without align honing. The only way to find out is to try it. If it doesn't bind when you torque them down, I'd run hell out of it.
 
Just called they only offer the studs for windage tray. They can do the bolts but it would be $20 per bolt. So what's you guys opinion. Should I remove the windage tray and get just the bolts or would it be worth paying the extra $$$ to run the windage tray? It's a 408 shortblock that's going in my Aspen
 
Jonnylightening said:
Just called they only offer the studs for windage tray. They can do the bolts but it would be $20 per bolt. So what's you guys opinion. Should I remove the windage tray and get just the bolts or would it be worth paying the extra $$$ to run the windage tray? It's a 408 shortblock that's going in my Aspen
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Why not just run a baffled pan?
 
Just a question? Because of the longer stroke aren't the crank throws longer. Do you have to modify a standard tray?
 
toolmanmike said:
Just a question? Because of the longer stroke aren't the crank throws longer. Do you have to modify a standard tray?
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Yes I had to modify it. There was another fellow on here explaining how he did his so I did the same. Doesn't hit and works out great
 
Jonnylightening said:
So I would be OK to go with ARP Bolts? I'm running a windage tray so what options do I have there?
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Next time, install them in the block. Torque them and then see if the cap is still aligned. A bore gauge would be good to use but if you cant catch your nail on either side at the parting line of the cap/saddle... run it.
And for you guys having rods done..buy your own bolts and hammer them in before you take them to the shop for resizing Save yourself some money.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Next time, install them in the block. Torque them and then see if the cap is still aligned. A bore gauge would be good to use but if you cant catch your nail on either side at the parting line of the cap/saddle... run it.
And for you guys having rods done..buy your own bolts and hammer them in before you take them to the shop for resizing Save yourself some money.
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I actually bought another guys project block. He had it machined and couldnt finish the build. I got a real good deal on it but I'm not saying the factory main bolts wont work but more less a piece of mind to have ARP bolts in it
 
Jonnylightening said:
Yes I had to modify it. There was another fellow on here explaining how he did his so I did the same. Doesn't hit and works out great
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All thread on stock bolts with windage tray mounts or just use double lock nuts on the studs to raise or lower it. You should also notch it to get it close enough to actually work. Many think it's doing its job based on that they cant get it any closer... it should be within a 1/2" iirr.
 
Jonnylightening said:
Just called they only offer the studs for windage tray. They can do the bolts but it would be $20 per bolt. So what's you guys opinion. Should I remove the windage tray and get just the bolts or would it be worth paying the extra $$$ to run the windage tray? It's a 408 shortblock that's going in my Aspen
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Somebody used to make a set of bolts to work with a windage tray, but they must have discontinued them.
 
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