hot rear brakes

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valiantrick225

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My 66 barracuda has a rear brake problem, I converted to front disc,
the car has an 8.75 rear axle 10" brakes new shoes, hardware, drums.
The rear manual proportioning valve is set wide open, you drive the car and
the rear pass side drum is scorching hot, enough that it toasted a set of shoes the drivers side seams to be normal temp and the front discs are also normal temp ? I have tried resetting
adjustments, doublr checked everything including the emergency brake adj and setting,
what am I missing.
 
valiantrick225 said:
My 66 barracuda has a rear brake problem, I converted to front disc,
the car has an 8.75 rear axle 10" brakes new shoes, hardware, drums.
The rear manual proportioning valve is set wide open, you drive the car and
the rear pass side drum is scorching hot, enough that it toasted a set of shoes the drivers side seams to be normal temp and the front discs are also normal temp ? I have tried resetting
adjustments, doublr checked everything including the emergency brake adj and setting,
what am I missing.
Click to expand...
Could be a sticking wheel cyl. Also most shoes have one larger one toward the back and one smaller toward the ft. (primary & secondary) if both large shoes are installed on the same side they will drag even adjusted all they way down.
 
If you are using ebrake cables from the 9” rear it’s dragging the shoes. Just my 2 cents
 
Syleng1 said:
If you are using ebrake cables from the 9” rear it’s dragging the shoes. Just my 2 cents
Click to expand...
The rear cables are all the same. The only one different is the middle cable with the equalizer. All the Valiants and the Dart S.W. use one, and the regular Darts use another.
 
Shoe dragging because of wheel cylinder, plugged line, or faulty adjuster are all possibilities, as are installation issues.
 
Both wheel cyclinders are new? loosened ebrake cables
up , wheel bearings are good ( no noises), wheel brake adjusters are working properly? Shoes are correct larger shoe rear and smaller one forward? Does the rear adjusting proportioning valve have a starting point to
start with ? and does it have any effect on my problem?
When I bleeded the rear brakes plenty of fluid came out on both sides.
 
Jax_1975_Dart said:
While I’m not saying to rule out the actual brake components, a failing rear bearing definitely matches your symptoms. @el5dart beat me to this post. :)
Click to expand...

i was stuck on the panhandle of florida once at 3am when a front spindle bearing on my chevelle failed catastrophically. had to replace spindle before i could get out of there.
 
An axle bearing getting that hot would be fairly rare, and usually you would hear it rumble if it's failing. That should be fairly easy to determine ones you have to drum off that side. Check the end play. Rotate the axle shaft by hand and see if turns smoothly and easily. If it's getting hot enough to cook the brakes, it might even turn the axle shaft purple.
 
The proportioning valve should affect both sides the same as far as fluid flow.
 
There's something affecting one side and not the other. Left side line plugged and not allowing braking on that side resulting in the right side doing all the work?
 
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brakes.jpg
 
One more possibility (although it's a long shot) if the backing plates have a groove or step worn into where the shoe rides from the old thin shoes then the new thick shoes could pop into that groove and get stuck against the drum. Then thermal expansion starts, more pressure on shoes, and downward spiral from there.
 
Do u have the springs on right. R they the weak old springs or did u change them? Is the shoes butted up against the pin on top? Kim
 
I had this problem once after installing front brakes. In my case the master cylinder piston couldn't return far enough after a few brake pumps. That left residual pressure on the rear brakes. I bought a brake booster pin adjustment tool and that solved the problem after an adjustment. I don't know if you have power brakes or not. Others here have mentioned it's more likely to be something specific to that drum, but it's something to check.

Got A Soft Brake Pedal? Don't Forget The Booster Pin to Master Cylinder Gap
 
Do you have the self adjusters installed the correct way? Not "I think" or "I believe" but are you 100 damned percent SURE?
 
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