hot running dart

-
L

ldtc

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
408 stroker engine with edelbrock rpm heads, rpm air gap intake manifold, aluminum radiator, and electric cooling fan 180* thermostat, evans npg coolant. This car has run hot from day one since i swapped from slant 6 to v8. I have tried numerous different radiator and fan configurations does any one have any suggestions before i get a radiator from a school bus and mount in on the front bumper of the car !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
just when idling in traffic or at a stop light at a busy intersection, does fine in clear traffic
 
do you know of a good fan to use i dont have much room between the radiator and water pump pulley, prefer an electric fan i will measure the radiator core asap
 
Hello!!!
I have a 1971 Duster 340 that I am having a problem with.... Running down the street, I am fine! Temp will stay steady at 180-185... if I have to stop at a traffic light or get in heavy traffic, stay at stop sign too long, etc... it will pop up on 200-210 everytime!! Motor (340) has been gone through, it is good! I have tried 3 different radiators, 3 different fans, 3 different thermostats, even changed the temp gauge several times.... cannot change the problem!
PLEASE...... any suggestions?????????
 
200-210 is not that high guys. (still under boiling temp)

I see you said you have an elec cooling fan.
What size, and CFM is it?
Where is it placed on the radiator?
 
200-210 is fine as long as you are running antifreeze/coolant. One of the purposes of the coolant is to raise the boiling point of the cooling fluid to over 235. If your car runs at 200-210 at an idle, don't worry that is exactly how it should be when idling in traffic.
 
Summit also has a addivetive called purple ice to add to radiator it helped me out.
 
Ldtc, I was running hot with my eddy stroker for some time, I think I finally beat the cooling monster. I can now run the car in traffic with no problems. I think the shroud I made helped a lot. I am just as limited on space due to the water pump pulley. You can see my cooling setup in my pics. I also advanced my timing out to 37 degrees total, and that helped a lot.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00967.JPG
    126.6 KB · Views: 181
  • DSC00968.JPG
    125.2 KB · Views: 191
  • DSC00969.JPG
    111.4 KB · Views: 177
  • DSC00970.JPG
    108.1 KB · Views: 184
stroker_valiant said:
Ldtc, I was running hot with my eddy stroker for some time, I think I finally beat the cooling monster. I can now run the car in traffic with no problems. I think the shroud I made helped a lot. I am just as limited on space due to the water pump pulley. You can see my cooling setup in my pics. I also advanced my timing out to 37 degrees total, and that helped a lot.
Click to expand...

I noticed the bypass on your waterpump and manifold are blocked off.
I'd like to know if that was prompted by anything or done to clean up the engine compartment?

The reason I am asking is that my car used to run about 200-210 around town and sometimes you could hear perculating coolant after I shut the car off (and the temp goes up from no circulation.)
I live in northern AZ so I didn't want heat to ever be an issue no matter where I went.
I back flushed the block with water followed by air blasts from a compressor, put in a new 8 impeller waterpump, 190 degree thermostat, 26 inch wide (extracool) radiator, 17 inch Jegs 2400 CFM electric cooling fan, and adjustable thermostat on the fans for a range of temp adjustments.
Fan comes on at 210 degrees, and goes off at 200 with current settings.

Long story short, it goes down to 170-175 anything over 35 miles an hour when even when it's 80 degrees outside, even with a 190 thermostat and was thinking it must be that bypass allowing coolant to continue through the system unregulated.
I have considered metering that bypass flow down to help stabilize the system at 190, but noticed yours blocked off.
How did it affect the cooling system?

Thanks

Hope I described things well enough
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top