Hot Start problem

[dalehardluck53]

What I have: 67 Barracuda Formula S, 383 engine 727 trans, 650 Holly, Edelbrock manifold, Chrysler electronic ignition, headers, full exhaust, mild cam. What it does: Starts right up, drive it for about 20 minutes, turn it off. Try to restart, nothing. No crank, no click. All accessories work. Wait 45 minutes to an hour, car starts right up. What I've done: Battery 2 years old, full charge. Replaced dash harness. New battery cables. New Powermaster starter with Summit Racing starter wrap. Help!!! Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[jonnydart440]

Ok, so I'm assuming the issue was present before the starter was replaced, if not then don't rule out the starter just because it's new. Btw, have u confirmed that there is in fact no voltage at the solenoid when it won't start? Sounds like the solenoid is heating up and the windings open, then cools down and contacts again.

 

[scott mattingly]

Ok, so I'm assuming the issue was present before the starter was replaced, if not then don't rule out the starter just because it's new. Btw, have u confirmed that there is in fact no voltage at the solenoid when it won't start? Sounds like the solenoid is heating up and the windings open, then cools down and contacts again.

Was trying to follow this thread as I have the exact same problem with my 74 360 duster. (I have a new starter also that is wrapped with a heat blanket to prevent heat-soak) but this same thing happened with the old starter that was not wrapped. Any other ideas? THX.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Neutral start switch too far back from the roostercomb? That's all I got, Jumper the brown wire to ground; I think it's brown, lemmee check; hyup brown.

 

[scott mattingly]

Neutral start switch too far back from the roostercomb? That's all I got, Jumper the brown wire to ground; I think it's brown, lemmee check; hyup brown.

--> I have double checked the neutral safety switch and it appears to be fine. I just had the transmission rebuilt this Summer and had a B&M floor shifter installed and went through this switch then. Plus, it ALWAYS works fine when cold.
NOTE: A friend of mine recalled that he didn't think I had the "No action/noise at all condition" when hot starting until I changed to a high-torque power-master mini-starter(I had that installed and wrapped with a heat shield when the trans was rebuilt). Prior to that, I had a stock-style starter that would chatter a lot when hot and then s-l-o-w-l-y turn like the battery was nearly dead. Car would always start(eventually) but I thought it was due to age/wear of the starter combined with heat-soak (as this starter was touching against a header pipe). Might just put that one back on ,and install a heat shield/bent the header pipe, while I continue to troubleshoot as it never left me stranded. However, I still think something is not right...THX for the assist.

 

[72bluNblu]

That particular phenomenon is usually a bad starter solenoid. Brand new starters can have this problem too, because they’re tested cold. The solenoid will test fine when it’s cold but not work at all when hot. JohnnyDart440 described the issue exactly.

It can be other things, but usually if there’s no “click” from the solenoid it means that’s the issue.

 

[famous bob]

That particular phenomenon is usually a bad starter solenoid. Brand new starters can have this problem too, because they’re tested cold. The solenoid will test fine when it’s cold but not work at all when hot. JohnnyDart440 described the issue exactly.

It can be other things, but usually if there’s no “click” from the solenoid it means that’s the issue.

MINE HAS A HOT START , IN THE HEAT PROBLEM , after FULLY WARMED UP IN SUMMER, like stopping to get gas, it is a little sluggish on restart, usually have to hit the key twice to get it to turn over, but has always started so far. But it does seem worse this summer than last . ???--------------cant type wort a ____ !

 

[72bluNblu]

MINE HAS A HOT START , IN THE HEAT PROBLEM , after FULLY WARMED UP IN SUMMER, like stopping to get gas, it is a little sluggish on restart, usually have to hit the key twice to get it to turn over, but has always started so far. But it does seem worse this summer than last . ???--------------cant type wort a ____ !

That could be a lot of things. Ignition, timing, fuel mix, tired battery, sluggish alternator, etc, etc. The starter solenoid is usually a “nothing happens” situation when hot, no “click”, no cranking. A heat soaked starter can be slow cranking when hot. But just a “hot start” issue is usually ignition or fuel related. Even just a little rich on the carb can mean it’s harder to start when hot vs cold.

The OP and follow up with the “nothing happens” when hot until it cools down sounds like a starter solenoid. I had the same with my factory style starter in my Challenger, and even a couple of the “new” replacements. Like the 3rd starter in it was suddenly fine. The quality control on the starter solenoids is marginal, and they only test them when dead cold so if there’s an insulation or dielectric issue it only shows up when they’re hot.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Nothing happens; not even a click. If the starter is not spinning the engine, then you should be able to hear the fender-mounted relay click. Hence the NSS diagnoses from me.
Ya know there is a definitive test; just short the big stud on the relay to the little one. If it cranks, obviously the starter is fine. If it doesn't crank nor click, then obviously the solenoid is asleep.
But if it cranks by shorting, but not by key, then the problem has to be the pull-in coil inside the relay is not receiving what it needs or it's broken. Since it is intermittent we can assume the relay is fine. Which then leads to the next logical diagnoses, that the little coil needs BOTH power from the key AND a ground at the NSS.
So jumper the ground and hit "crank". If it fails to crank, then get an additional jumper and jumper the power to the other side of the coil. If it still fails to crank, simply short the large studs together again. If it again cranks then the relay is in fact toast. But if it doesn't crank, give the solenoid a bop with a hammer. If it now cranks, Remove the power jumper to the relay, then remove the starter and clean the mounting surface so the starter clearly has a ground, and then short the studs again. If it still requires a bop from the hammer, then rebuild or replace the solenoid first. Then back to the top.
The above assumes the battery cables are clean and tight at both ends, and that the battery is in fact not dead nor damaged inside, and that the transmission is seeing the battery negative, and that the nss is on the correct roostercomb, and that battery voltage is coming from the ignition switch in crank position. Wheph.
I think I got that right...