Hot Tubs

-
/6 Matt

/6 Matt

30 Degrees Crooked
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
2,512
Reaction score
235
Location
Lincolnton, NC
So we have a hot tub that we got several years ago for free from a family friend. The pump recently blew a seal and started leaking at the shaft between the wet end and the motor.

The motor was replaced several years ago by the previous owner and they used a 2 h.p. pump instead of a 1.5 h.p. like what the tub was supposed to have. So whenever we tried to use high, it would trip our 20 amp breaker that it's on.

So we figured we would be best to replace the whole thing with a 1.5 h.p. pump. Does anybody know if it's remotely possible to find the pump motor and wet end assembly for the neighborhood of $100? Or is this just a crack dream?

Or would it be better to buy the $65 wet end (our current one is obsolete and they no longer offer replacement parts of course) and just upgrade the wiring and the breaker? The wiring is easy to get to, it's tacked to the floor joists in the basement ceiling and goes through the basement wall to outside.

What do you all think? Wet end and wiring job? Deal with the $200-$500 pump motor package? Or is there a cheaper option I haven't found?

Not looking to spend much money on a free hot tub, and not in the position of purchase yet. Just price checking/shopping.
 
Oh duh I forgot, it's a Dakota Spas hot tub (I can't recall the model name off the top of my head) and it needs a 1.5 h.p. pump with side discharge and 2" inlet/outlet ID's. The pump is also a 48 frame if that matters.
 
Cheaper to up the breaker.
 
Thats kinda what I was thinking because the motor at ~1700rpm is only 4 amps. 3450 rpm is 16.4 amps believe it or not.

1.5 horsepower motors at 3450 rpm pulls ~13 amps.

The tub itself (it's a Qualstar model I discovered) says max amperage at 120V is 16 amps and it needs a 20 amp breaker.

Logically then, we need a 30 or 35 amp breaker. We will also need larger conductors (what gauge wire would handle 40 amps @ 120V) from the panel to the outlet/receptical outside the house. We probably also need a 40 amp receptical/outlet with ground fault.

Any other things I am forgeting?
 
But then too, comes the next question. Then the pigtail on the tub need larger wiring most likely too right? And then maybe even have to setup some sort of relay to control the pump itself cause the control box probably can't handle the extra amperage.

Seems like it could possibly end up being alot of extra BS plus the $65 wet end pump.
 
That is option number 3. Replace the wet end for $65 and put it it all back together. Wait for the motor to ****, knowing our luck a week later, and then worry about getting a 1.5 h.p. motor.
 
Soon as I get the hot tub fixed lol!

Byof and byob! And bsbfm (bring some beer for matt) cause im 19 lol.
 
Upping the service to the pump may overload the actual wiring inside the tub, which is undoubtably rated for the 1.5hp system. Kinda like running 14 gauge wire to a 20 amp breaker... The wire is now the weak link and the breaker will not pop before the wire melts! Not a good scenario in a wet/power application!!

Free hot tubs are kinda like boats.. coming up on your 2nd happiest day as a hot tub owner... the day you haul it off to the dump!!! Yep, I had a free one too!! Good luck with the project, Geof
 
a hot tub also makes a decent hot tank ...i had an old one that i didnt use ....i dont wear swim suits .......so i used it to clean some engine parts .....the heat and water current really makes a difference on that real stuck on grease.
 
RaniDart70 said:
a hot tub also makes a decent hot tank ...i had an old one that i didnt use ....i dont wear swim suits .......so i used it to clean some engine parts .....the heat and water current really makes a difference on that real stuck on grease.
Click to expand...
Ok we need pics of this lol
 
RaniDart70 said:
a hot tub also makes a decent hot tank ...i had an old one that i didnt use ....i dont wear swim suits .......so i used it to clean some engine parts .....the heat and water current really makes a difference on that real stuck on grease.
Click to expand...
I will say Rani, you crack me up... I won't be surprised by anything you do anymore. Also, (no offense to Rani), but I didn't think suits were required in hot tubs?
 
Whatever you do, search and research on hot tub electrical issues. This is YOUR LIFE we are talking about, and a properly installed hot tub is at the top of the predator list for ELECTRICAL SAFETY

I know a fair amount about electrical issues, but there is a number of special points "in the code" for tubs.

Grounding, GFI, wire size and breakers, each and all are incredibly important with a tub.
 
....on unknown common cause of pump failure is not keeping the chemicals up to where they should be... I still find this one hard to believe....

We have a hot tub for my spine ...don't think I could give it up now..

ian.
 
I have to agree with COSGIG.
One thing I didn't see asked or maybe I missed it. Is the hot tub the only thing on that circuit?
If you have something else on that circuit and when they are both on could
pop the breaker if there more amps then the circuit can handle.
It would be best if the tub was on a breaker by itself.
If it's on one by itself then there is something wrong with the pump making it over load.
 
norshorblufish said:
If it's on one by itself then there is something wrong with the pump making it over load.
Click to expand...

Some 120V motors draw well over 20--25 amps under load. I don't know what else is "in the tube, heater, lights, etc.
 
/6 Matt said:
So we have a hot tub that we got several years ago for free from a family friend. The pump recently blew a seal and started leaking at the shaft between the wet end and the motor.

The motor was replaced several years ago by the previous owner and they used a 2 h.p. pump instead of a 1.5 h.p. like what the tub was supposed to have. So whenever we tried to use high, it would trip our 20 amp breaker that it's on.

So we figured we would be best to replace the whole thing with a 1.5 h.p. pump. Does anybody know if it's remotely possible to find the pump motor and wet end assembly for the neighborhood of $100? Or is this just a crack dream?

Or would it be better to buy the $65 wet end (our current one is obsolete and they no longer offer replacement parts of course) and just upgrade the wiring and the breaker? The wiring is easy to get to, it's tacked to the floor joists in the basement ceiling and goes through the basement wall to outside.

What do you all think? Wet end and wiring job? Deal with the $200-$500 pump motor package? Or is there a cheaper option I haven't found?

Not looking to spend much money on a free hot tub, and not in the position of purchase yet. Just price checking/shopping.
Click to expand...

What about just having your existing pump motor rebuilt? This way you know it fits, works etc . Got a local place here in abilene that does this. Ya want to find someone local in your area tho.
 
You can rebuild the wet end of the pump and the motor must match the pump
What's the amp rating on the motor, the frame size does matter when u go to get a new one, I do plumbing and HVAC for a living I would rebuild the wet side and put the horse and half motor back on. There is a good motor shop in hickory motor prob around 130-140 bucks
 
67Dart273 said:
Whatever you do, search and research on hot tub electrical issues. This is YOUR LIFE we are talking about, and a properly installed hot tub is at the top of the predator list for ELECTRICAL SAFETY

I know a fair amount about electrical issues, but there is a number of special points "in the code" for tubs.

Grounding, GFI, wire size and breakers, each and all are incredibly important with a tub.
Click to expand...
Do you know any good pages off the top of your head that I can read? A little bit of electrical work will need to be done due to high current draw damaging wiring thats too small.

Previous owners..... :violent1:

norshorblufish said:
I have to agree with COSGIG.
One thing I didn't see asked or maybe I missed it. Is the hot tub the only thing on that circuit?
If you have something else on that circuit and when they are both on could
pop the breaker if there more amps then the circuit can handle.
It would be best if the tub was on a breaker by itself.
If it's on one by itself then there is something wrong with the pump making it over load.
Click to expand...
It is on its own circuit. Problem is the pump draws 16.4 amps and the rest of the tub draws 5 amps and it's all on a 20 amp circuit.

Oklacarcollecto said:
There should be a circulation/air pump too.
Click to expand...
There is.

norshorblufish said:
Yes and all those should be factored in for total load.
And tub should still be on a circuit by itself to handle that load capacity.
Click to expand...
Total load is 21.4 amps. But the tub is designed to use a 1.5 hp pump and only draw 16 amps TOTAL.

moparmat2000 said:
What about just having your existing pump motor rebuilt? This way you know it fits, works etc . Got a local place here in abilene that does this. Ya want to find someone local in your area tho.
Click to expand...
The model waterway wetend that we have is obsolete and replacement parts aren't offered.

66MOPAR77 said:
You can rebuild the wet end of the pump and the motor must match the pump
What's the amp rating on the motor, the frame size does matter when u go to get a new one, I do plumbing and HVAC for a living I would rebuild the wet side and put the horse and half motor back on. There is a good motor shop in hickory motor prob around 130-140 bucks
Click to expand...
Do you know their name off the top of your head? Maybe they have some NOS parts or a good price on an appropriately sized unit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top