hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
well was pulling off all the suspension to replace it and discovered some movement i dont this is suppose to be there...just want to confirm this is not normal
Houston...we got a problem....probably :)
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Yes perfectly.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
all that slop is suppose to be there? the other side is not like that
You have the torsion bar either out or completely unloaded, right?
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
that was unloaded...i could move the lower bolt around no problem...waste out...i released the tension the same on both sides and the driver side doesnt move around other than up and down unlike the pass side you can see it is moving around
I am sure my 321,000 mile bushings there are just the same.
I do not think that is normal. I think it is warn out. Might be just the bushing or it might be the bushing and the support bolt (don't recall the propper name) or a combo of both.
I do not think that is normal. I think it is warn out. Might be just the bushing or it might be the bushing and the support bolt (don't recall the propper name) or a combo of both.
Either the LCA bushing is completely shot, or you have a pivot sleeve issue with the K frame.
You can see the LCA socket and the end of the torsion bar moving up and down. That ain't normal. The LCA socket shouldn't move around at all if the torsion bar adjusting bolt is out, the arm should just rotate on the socket. For the socket to be moving up and down the whole arm has to be moving up and down on the pin (bushing shot) or the whole pin has to be moving (pivot sleeve in the K shot). It's probably just the bushing, the clanking is probably the outer shell of the bushing going metal to metal on the pivot pin. Take the torsion bar out, unbolt the strut rod and the LCA will probably fall off the pin.
You can see the LCA socket and the end of the torsion bar moving up and down. That ain't normal. The LCA socket shouldn't move around at all if the torsion bar adjusting bolt is out, the arm should just rotate on the socket. For the socket to be moving up and down the whole arm has to be moving up and down on the pin (bushing shot) or the whole pin has to be moving (pivot sleeve in the K shot). It's probably just the bushing, the clanking is probably the outer shell of the bushing going metal to metal on the pivot pin. Take the torsion bar out, unbolt the strut rod and the LCA will probably fall off the pin.
With the LCA completely removed that LCA socket will flop around loosey goosey. Just like it's doing in the video.
Ok I looked really closely and it appears the whole shebang is moving. That's not right. You think you can give us a little longer than a 3 second video next time to argue over?
Yeah the arm can move around on the socket a little, that kind of play is normal (to varying degrees) and is what @Jim Lusk ‘s repair video shows how to fix. But the way those are mounted on the car the socket shouldn’t be moving up and down like it is.
I would guess that the LCA bushing is almost completely gone, it’s going metal to metal when the LCA is moving, and the socket is moving up and down which it shouldn’t be able to do if the bushing was intact.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
removed both lower control arms and both were shot...the side in the video had zero rubber..the other side had some rubber but was shot...all new going in
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
If you're willing to upgrade I strongly recommend polyurethane or Delrin LCA bushings along with adjustable strut rods (the two go together, doesn't work so well if you do only one or the other). I did that on my car after rebuilding it with stock rubber parts once and it made a very noticeable difference particularly when braking and turning at the same time.
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