How and why to replace an ammeter with a voltmeter in a vintage Mopar
- Thread starter Lord Sparky
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BobW
Curmudgeon At Large
Or this one: '64 Valiant Convertible Project - Slant Six Forum
I don't like the right to left orientation. It feels weird, like watching a left-handed drummer.
I agree and there HAS been oppositely hung meters, all you have to do is find one that works for this instance. One way would be to put a digital in there
Yet another way might be to turn one of the other gauge movements into ACTING like a voltmeter. That should be possible with some work. Get another fuel gauge (inverted) and experiment with limiting resistors to make it read more like volts In this case you would NOT be powering it off the IVR, but off "keyed power" with a limiting resistor. That would cause it to react with V change rather than a change in sensor resistance
Yet another way might be to turn one of the other gauge movements into ACTING like a voltmeter. That should be possible with some work. Get another fuel gauge (inverted) and experiment with limiting resistors to make it read more like volts In this case you would NOT be powering it off the IVR, but off "keyed power" with a limiting resistor. That would cause it to react with V change rather than a change in sensor resistance
I bought a couple cigarette lighter voltmeters. I was going to take one apart & mount it on or under the dash. Haven’t got to it yet……
............And a story from the old days........
This is an old Hallicrafters SX-100 short wave and amateur radio receiver, one of their low-to-medium price spread. Notice the "S" meter is all the way to the right. This is because the receiver is unpowered and that is the way the meter was made. It was wired with a simple resistor network in series with the cathodes of the intermediate amplifier stages (I.F.) which are controlled by AVC/ AGC voltage (automatic gain control) As you tuned in signals, a stronger signal would generate a more negative AGC voltage which would cut down the gain of the IF stages, and help mediate signal strength/ volume. This caused the IF stages to draw LESS current on strong signals. With this meter lashup wired in, less current through the stages allowed the meter to go further to the right, showing a stronger signal.
THEY WERE NEVER very accurate!!!! When I was young, I bought a small Heathkit receiver from a neighbor in town. He had added one of these meters to the Heathkit, and IT WAS NEVER very accurate LOLOL, but that did not stop ME from wasting hours and hours attempting to get it to work better
This is an old Hallicrafters SX-100 short wave and amateur radio receiver, one of their low-to-medium price spread. Notice the "S" meter is all the way to the right. This is because the receiver is unpowered and that is the way the meter was made. It was wired with a simple resistor network in series with the cathodes of the intermediate amplifier stages (I.F.) which are controlled by AVC/ AGC voltage (automatic gain control) As you tuned in signals, a stronger signal would generate a more negative AGC voltage which would cut down the gain of the IF stages, and help mediate signal strength/ volume. This caused the IF stages to draw LESS current on strong signals. With this meter lashup wired in, less current through the stages allowed the meter to go further to the right, showing a stronger signal.
THEY WERE NEVER very accurate!!!! When I was young, I bought a small Heathkit receiver from a neighbor in town. He had added one of these meters to the Heathkit, and IT WAS NEVER very accurate LOLOL, but that did not stop ME from wasting hours and hours attempting to get it to work better
Coupe
Member
This might help, YouTube, "Refreshing and upgrading a 72 Dart Instrument Panel Part 1"
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