How bad did I screw up

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Just my 2 cents. While the engine is accessable after it is all cleaned and ready to be assembled. Get a stud and JB weld the stud and piece on. That way you can clamp the piece in place.

Once the engine is in the car if it starts leaking it's going to be much harder to deal with
 
Two of the three bolts would hold it. That part of the block is very rigid & so is the mating section of the pump housing. I would see if the damaged hole can be tapped any deeper within the current hole depth, even if just 2-3 threads. Then use a stud, loctited in place, just snugged up; it becomes a 'helper', not the main source of attachment.
 
Craig Burriss said:
I just finished tearing it down to a bare block and got it all cleaned up. Appears to be high mileage and standard bore, came with 452 heads, and a windage tray which is a first for me. As far as the water pump housing hole, I’m probably just going to ignore it. I feel like 2 of the 3 bolts will hold it fine. If it leaks I’ll drill it further in and tap it.
Not sure if I’m going to do a full build on this one or just do a basic piston/cam build like my other 440s.

Here’s the truck it’s probably going in.
View attachment 1716069021
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Cool truck. Ummm...where did you find it?
 
RustyRatRod said:
It looks REAL similar to one my buddy Matt had and sold.
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Here’s what it looked like when he first got it
E4944FCD-9952-4708-93C4-09993629CFE1.jpeg
 
Ive had good luck with Cronatron NI rod for cast repair, it doesn't weld great out of position but that's not an issue in this case.
or braze it , easy peasy either way , not the end of the world.
 
Craig Burriss said:
I just finished tearing it down to a bare block and got it all cleaned up. Appears to be high mileage and standard bore, came with 452 heads, and a windage tray which is a first for me. As far as the water pump housing hole, I’m probably just going to ignore it. I feel like 2 of the 3 bolts will hold it fine. If it leaks I’ll drill it further in and tap it.
Not sure if I’m going to do a full build on this one or just do a basic piston/cam build like my other 440s.

Here’s the truck it’s probably going in.
View attachment 1716069021
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I have a similar engine that I bought of FB that was stuck. I just got it apart and got it unstuck. Could you please post what you did to you other engines as far as pistons and cam? TIA.
 
jacko241 said:
I have a similar engine that I bought of FB that was stuck. I just got it apart and got it unstuck. Could you please post what you did to you other engines as far as pistons and cam? TIA.
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Both 440s I’ve built have forged Speed Pro pistons on the factory “LY” rods. The one in my Duster is .030 over and has basically a “purple shaft”. The one in the RamCharger is .040 over and has a hopped up RV cam. I don’t remember the cam specs off the top of my head.
 
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Craig Burriss said:
Bought a super cheap RV 440 yesterday. Tearing it down today I was fighting one of the water pump housing bolts. I broke the block
I feel like this isn’t the end of the road for this block. There’s still about a 1/4” of hole left behind the break.

View attachment 1716068859

View attachment 1716068860
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Bevel the edges of the broken piece and the block. Then the piece can be welded back with cast iron rod, high nickel rod or braze it in. Use a small C clamp to hold it in place while welding. Use a bolt to initially keep the threads lined up. Use caution on how mich heat is put in to reduce cracking at the edge of any weld. Weld 1/4" to 3/8" and then gently tap to stress relieve the weld. When done and it is cooled, run a tap down to clean the threads.
 
My thoughts: I like the stud idea, but before installing I would carefully run a flat bottom tap in the hole. Then you could "glue" the stud in with an epoxy weld product. I don't think you will have any issues.
 
I thank you all for the rocker,, Lifter,,, exhaust or maybe ? tic noise,, helpful stuff to check for when it warms up ?! Still no buds on the trees,,,here. Car still at rest. Then when it warms up some; roll er out. Back to Ron White,,,,,,,,
 
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