how do I determine 509 cam specs?

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rustycowll69

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I was going thru some cams I have, and I acquired at some time a "509" BB cam. It has no stamped numbers on it. I calipered the lobes and base circle to determine that it was a 509 lift cam, but when I looked up the rest of the specs, it turns out there are two 509 designs. (The earlier) one has 76 degrees of overlap, and the later one has 64 degrees of overlap. The later one was changed to make it more streetable. Anybody have some trick idea on how to determine which one I have, without installing it and degreeing it in the engine?
 
rumblefish360 said:
See stuff here ---> Chrysler High Performance Cam Data
Click to expand...
great chart, but there was a superceded design on the 292/509 cam with 64 degrees of o/lap, 114 c/L. I'm trying to figure out which one I have, because there are no markings other than purple paint, and I don't want to go into huge gymnastics to degree it to figure it out. I was hoping some mopar geniuses out there had some brilliant idea to easily figure it out.
 
rustycowll69 said:
great chart, but there was a superceded design on the 292/509 cam with 64 degrees of o/lap, 114 c/L. I'm trying to figure out which one I have, because there are no markings other than purple paint, and I don't want to go into huge gymnastics to degree it to figure it out. I was hoping some mopar geniuses out there had some brilliant idea to easily figure it out.
Click to expand...
RustyRatRod said:
I refer you to post #2.
Click to expand...

And then post #3 to compare specs. :)

Tell me, do you see anything marked, scribed, scratched, embossed, cast into the cam?
IF so, post a picture if you will.
Other than degreeing it in and checking the degree wheel, I'm sorry, I know of no other way unless the cam is marked in some way.
 
rumblefish360 said:
And then post #3 to compare specs. :)

Tell me, do you see anything marked, scribed, scratched, embossed, cast into the cam?
IF so, post a picture if you will.
Other than degreeing it in and checking the degree wheel, I'm sorry, I know of no other way unless the cam is marked in some way.
Click to expand...
yup, no markings other than purple paint. I have several various purple shafts, and most if not all, have no stampings. why is that? who makes these cams for DC, and MP?
Regarding cam doctor, I don't know anybody in my area who has one, or a comparable machine.
 
Yeah, I myself have noticed no stampings. Just like yourself, the purple stripe is all I see. Years back it used to be racer brown cutting cams for the old direct connection. I don't know who they went to for cutting cams for them afterwards. Like all good things, it was probably cut by bean counters and moved to the lowest bidder. But that I don't know for sure.

Competition cams did cut their rollers, or should I say they went to competition cams for the rollers. They are the solid roller cam for superstock racing that Mopar had was from competition cams. You can still get them today.
 
Because you'll be looking for 108 or 114, I think it can be done. All you have to do is determine the centerline of two adjacent lobes for the same cylinder, and estimate; is it closer to 108, or to 114.
So all you need are a pair of V-blocks and a dial-indicator. No, it won't be accurate, but it doesn't have to be;you're not looking for an absolute LSA. A lathe would be better, cuz it will keep the cam from walking back and forth.
In any case, I'd try it. If you ace it, it will make the cam a little more saleable.
 
FYI
Notice in Dave's post under "basic RPM" is says 2000 to 6000; they're not kidding!
I ran that 292/108 for a while and my windshield accelerometer seemed to think the power peaked at 5700,IIRC.(that was year 2000) With an automatic (if you dare), that would require a 1-2 shift rpm of about 6800, to come in at 4000.The 2-3 shift might be around 6500, to come in at 4485. Of course that would depend on how fast the power noses over in your combo.
With a stick car, the shift splits are all pretty much the same and the shift rpm might be 6500. But with my OOTB Eddies, the power was very slow to nose over, so I revved it to the moon , just cuz I could. I never before had an engine that revved so high and it was/is, addictive.
As to the bottom end, I think 2000 is being kind. Mine had very poor torque down there. To get around that, I ran 4.30s with the 2.66low box for a starter gear of 11.44. It also ran well with a 10.97 starter.
IDK what you'd want for an automatic but Ima thinking a minimum 2800TC and maybe 3.91s; again depending on your combo. I wouldn't run it in a 318 streeter, nor even a 340 streeter.And here's the reason why

Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 123.............................123 is pretty weak

Here's a 360 same compression ratio
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.64 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.15:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 163.78 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 133...............................133 still weak

Here it is in a 410 stroker, same Scr
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.98 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.23:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.87 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 152.................................152, not weak any more!



all are at about the limit of pumpgas.
 
FYI
Notice in Dave's post under "basic RPM" is says 2000 to 6000; they're not kidding!
I ran that 292/108 for a while and my windshield accelerometer seemed to think the power peaked at 5700,IIRC.(that was year 2000) With an automatic (if you dare), that would require a 1-2 shift rpm of about 6800, to come in at 4000.The 2-3 shift might be around 6500, to come in at 4485. Of course that would depend on how fast the power noses over in your combo.
With a stick car, the shift splits are all pretty much the same and the shift rpm might be 6500. But with my OOTB Eddies, the power was very slow to nose over, so I revved it to the moon , just cuz I could. I never before had an engine that revved so high and it was/is, addictive.
As to the bottom end, I think 2000 is being kind. Mine had very poor torque down there. To get around that, I ran 4.30s with the 2.66low box for a starter gear of 11.44. It also ran well with a 10.97 starter.
IDK what you'd want for an automatic but Ima thinking a minimum 2800TC and maybe 3.91s; again depending on your combo. I wouldn't run it in a 318 streeter, nor even a 340 streeter.And here's the reason why

In a 318
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 116..................................116 very weak
A stock 318 with the 2bbl cam comes in at about 113

In a 340
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 123.............................123 is pretty weak

In a 360
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.64 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.15:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 163.78 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 133...............................133 sorta getting somewhere

Here it is in a 410 stroker
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.98 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.23:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.87 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 152..........................152, not weak any more!

all are at about the limit of pumpgas, and iron heads
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
FYI
Notice in Dave's post under "basic RPM" is says 2000 to 6000; they're not kidding!
I ran that 292/108 for a while and my windshield accelerometer seemed to think the power peaked at 5700,IIRC.(that was year 2000) With an automatic (if you dare), that would require a 1-2 shift rpm of about 6800, to come in at 4000.The 2-3 shift might be around 6500, to come in at 4485. Of course that would depend on how fast the power noses over in your combo.
With a stick car, the shift splits are all pretty much the same and the shift rpm might be 6500. But with my OOTB Eddies, the power was very slow to nose over, so I revved it to the moon , just cuz I could. I never before had an engine that revved so high and it was/is, addictive.
As to the bottom end, I think 2000 is being kind. Mine had very poor torque down there. To get around that, I ran 4.30s with the 2.66low box for a starter gear of 11.44. It also ran well with a 10.97 starter.
IDK what you'd want for an automatic but Ima thinking a minimum 2800TC and maybe 3.91s; again depending on your combo. I wouldn't run it in a 318 streeter, nor even a 340 streeter.And here's the reason why

In a 318
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 116..................................116 very weak
A stock 318 with the 2bbl cam comes in at about 113

In a 340
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 123.............................123 is pretty weak

In a 360
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.64 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.15:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 163.78 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 133...............................133 sorta getting somewhere

Here it is in a 410 stroker
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.98 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.23:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.87 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 152..........................152, not weak any more!

all are at about the limit of pumpgas, and iron heads
Click to expand...
this was a BB 509 cam. how do you think that would work? what about the newer 509 cam?
 
rustycowll69 said:
this was a BB 509 cam. how do you think that would work? what about the newer 509 cam?
Click to expand...

I'm not into BBs , so IDK where that cam might peak, but here's a VP comparo, still at 10.7 SCR, and with the ICA of 70* that the 292/509 cam might be installed at.

This at 4.34x3.75-444cid
Static compression ratio of 10.7:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.11:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.74 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 159..........................................................159,
so that's getting somewhere again

Try this444
Static compression ratio of 11.1:1.
Effective stroke is 2.78 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.49:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 172.68 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 165.............................................................170

or this 444 with aluminum heads
Static compression ratio of 11.5:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.70:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 178.21 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 174.............................................................174
Perhaps a bit much for street work

As you can see, the only parameter I changed was the Scr. And you can see the progression in VP from 159, to 170 to 174. These represent increases of 170/159= plus 6.92% and 174/159=plus 9.4%. These increases can be roughly thought of as being an equal increase in torque (power for those that like to argue) on the starting line.

Conversely 159VP is very strong street 360, say with a 272cam
Static compression ratio of 10.9:1. (I had to bump it up to get the VP of 159)
Effective stroke is 2.84 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.85:1 . (So aluminum heads will likely be a must)
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 182.17 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 159 (This is about what I run).............................159

So you can directly compare your lowVP444 to that hotted up 360 with the same VPs namely 159
Keep in mind that this VP number very quickly decays with rpm and the 444, by 3500rpm will be showing a very distinct cid advantage.
This VP number is just a tool to compare low rpm torque.
As in; why is my 292 equipped LowC-318/904 such a dog until I hit 40 mph..........................
Well, here's why;
Static compression ratio of 8:1.
Effective stroke is 2.43 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 6.13:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 112.47 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 80........................................................................80
Well your VP is 3 floors down in the basement at 80, that's why!

People talk about large displacement engines eating up duration. And I think the VP tells the story.
Notice the VP of 159 in the 292* equipped 444.
And then notice the VP of 159 in the 272* equipped 360.
For the same low-rpm feeling, the 360 has to give up 20 degrees.
Some day, Some day; I might try that 292 again, in my 360, with Rhoads, or it will be a roller cam. Then maybe I'll have both ends covered,lol. I remember that 292 very fondly from 5500 to over 7000; that was a lot of push. But the 143VP at the bottom was a big disappointment.

That's the best I got
 
land_dyno.jpg

Here is a Hughes 360 with an HE3037Al,(276/286/110) like is in my 360. They don't tell you what Scr they're running but since it is iron headed, I'm guessing
Static compression ratio of 10:1.
Effective stroke is 2.79 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.01:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 160.14 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 137................................................137
Notice the power curve stops early at 6000. If you extrapolate the falling torque curve out to 6800,and do the math, you might see the power fall to 400hp. If you then lay a straightedge across the power-line, to 400 on the up-swing, you will see 400hp at about 4800. So the powerband from 4800 to 6800 is 2000 rpm. This is too narrow for a 904 1-2 shift, which drops the Rs from 6800 to 4012, on the 1-2 shift. If you follow the 4000 rpm line up to the power-line you see that it lands at about 300hp, so the poor 360 will struggle to get back up to 4800/400hp.
The 2-3 shift only drags the Rs down to 69%, so again outshifting at 6800/400hp, the Rs will fall to 4700/375ish, so now your pretty close.
Now, remember this is only a 230@.050cam, and it has a shift-rpm with a 904 of 6800 or more.
Same cam with an A833, needs to be outshifted at 6800/400hp,to come in at 4930/400hp, to satisfy its shift drop to 72/73%, with a powerband of 1836rpm.
But here's the deal; with a powerband requirement of just 1836,(vs average 2450 with the 904), there is no reason to not install a cam with a much smaller than 110LSA , in a stick car. I mean the power has only fallen to 400 at 6800. So then a 104LSA cam for example, would tighten the powerband up for the A833, while simultaneously increasing the specific hp output. This is great for racing, but not so great in a streeter, which would soften up the bottom end, and with 3.55s that might not be acceptable.
So the better answer IMO is to downsize the cam, AND tighten up the LSA. This would restore the VP to an acceptable level, while maintaining the specific power output of the wide-LSAcam, and making a better fit for the A833.

Of course the best solution is just a bigger engine.
With a mild who-cares LSA, and lots of compression. I mean 159 is 159. And cubes is cubes.
IMO there's no sense for a streeter to have an engine with a 6800 shift rpm, and then never/rarely going there. That engine gives up a lot of VP to get something you just rarely take advantage of.Especially with 3.55s, which hit speeding territory at the top of first gear. Better it would be to give up that big cam, and hit 65 at the top of second, having put more average power down during the same time period, and reaping the benefit at the lower Rs, like for cruising, and just generally honking around.
If I had to guess, that 509 would probably power peak at least 300/400 rpm sooner in a BB, than in a 360. So I'm guessing 5350? Total guess.
 
Last edited:
I do know u have to install that cam at 104-106 if u plan on having ant low end tork at all. Straight up power comes on at 3500 rpm. Kim
 
AJ/FormS said:
View attachment 1715083662
Here is a Hughes 360 with an HE3037Al,(276/286/110) like is in my 360. They don't tell you what Scr they're running but since it is iron headed, I'm guessing
Static compression ratio of 10:1.
Effective stroke is 2.79 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.01:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 160.14 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 137................................................137
Notice the power curve stops early at 6000. If you extrapolate the falling torque curve out to 6800,and do the math, you might see the power fall to 400hp. If you then lay a straightedge across the power-line, to 400 on the up-swing, you will see 400hp at about 4800. So the powerband from 4800 to 6800 is 2000 rpm. This is too narrow for a 904 1-2 shift, which drops the Rs from 6800 to 4012, on the 1-2 shift. If you follow the 4000 rpm line up to the power-line you see that it lands at about 300hp, so the poor 360 will struggle to get back up to 4800/400hp.
The 2-3 shift only drags the Rs down to 69%, so again outshifting at 6800/400hp, the Rs will fall to 4700/375ish, so now your pretty close.
Now, remember this is only a 230@.050cam, and it has a shift-rpm with a 904 of 6800 or more.
Same cam with an A833, needs to be outshifted at 6800/400hp,to come in at 4930/400hp, to satisfy its shift drop to 72/73%, with a powerband of 1836rpm.
But here's the deal; with a powerband requirement of just 1836,(vs average 2450 with the 904), there is no reason to not install a cam with a much smaller than 110LSA , in a stick car. I mean the power has only fallen to 400 at 6800. So then a 104LSA cam for example, would tighten the powerband up for the A833, while simultaneously increasing the specific hp output. This is great for racing, but not so great in a streeter, which would soften up the bottom end, and with 3.55s that might not be acceptable.
So the better answer IMO is to downsize the cam, AND tighten up the LSA. This would restore the VP to an acceptable level, while maintaining the specific power output of the wide-LSAcam, and making a better fit for the A833.

Of course the best solution is just a bigger engine.
With a mild who-cares LSA, and lots of compression. I mean 159 is 159. And cubes is cubes.
IMO there's no sense for a streeter to have an engine with a 6800 shift rpm, and then never/rarely going there. That engine gives up a lot of VP to get something you just rarely take advantage of.Especially with 3.55s, which hit speeding territory at the top of first gear. Better it would be to give up that big cam, and hit 65 at the top of second, having put more average power down during the same time period, and reaping the benefit at the lower Rs, like for cruising, and just generally honking around.
If I had to guess, that 509 would probably power peak at least 300/400 rpm sooner in a BB, than in a 360. So I'm guessing 5350? Total guess.
Click to expand...
I'm very impressed with the thoughtful comments. Not just the insightful analysis, but taking the time to put it down in writing. Thanks, posters and FABO!
 
AJ/FormS said:
But notice the loss of torque at 2500 to 3000
Click to expand...
And notice the 50!hp gain at peak. I don't really care about an under 3000 rpm torque loss as I would install the appropriate torque converter and go sailing by the guy with the tiny cam and stock converter. If someone can't tolerate a little bit of converter slippage, I don't see how they could stand driving our old hot rods without heated seats, cup holders, ABS, etc.
 
Makes me wonder how the bottom end coulda ran with a fast-rate 268 and optimized compression.
Heres what the slow-azzSum 6400 looks like;
Static compression ratio of 7.45:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 5.73:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 102.66 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 100.......................................................100

and Sum6400,with decent compression
Static compression ratio of 10.85:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.22:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.61 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 162.......................................................162

And with a 268 cam optimized
Static compression ratio of 10.0:1.
Effective stroke is 2.96 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.22:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.61 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 177..........................................................177

Well there's probably room for one more
and with a 276 cam
Static compression ratio of 10.5:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.25:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 166.39 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 169........................................................169 good trade

So 169/100 =plus 69% more bottom end, and the 276 puts the power peak about 400 rpm lower, kindof what a streeter needs. So that might make the peak at 4800, and the shift rpm at 6100 (guessing cuz no data there), to come in at 3600 in the 727. This with a 276 cam.
So where is the shift rpm with the Low-C 292 from the last test?
Ima guessing 7000/7200, to come in at 4130/4250;; do you really want to shift your street440 at 7000/7200?
If you dont, you leave ET on the table, by way of less than optimal average hp.
So knowing that,
you might as well capture the better average hp with a smaller cam, and leave nothing on the table. Then bring up the compression, for a dynomite bottom-end. A VP of 169 is pretty nice in a streeter.
I ran a 162 in my 360 for 4 years and it was awesome;both ends and especially up the middle. I still miss it from time to time.

I tell you one thing tho, a quick search says the Summ-6400 has a 288 intake duration advertised and a 214 @.050, that is 74 degrees for the ramps. I wouldn't put something like that in my engine ever!
If I wanted a 214 cam it would be about 258 advertised. and I would put the compression up where it belonged.
See, this is what I don't get. For a guy who can twist a Torquewrench why in the world wouldn't you punch up the compression at least close to the optimum to run whatever cam you had your heart set on. I would sooner punch it up, than put a 4bbl and cam on/in it, and nowadays that's about the same price as a set of pistons,installed yet.
Here's a combo I once ran
Static compression ratio of 10.5:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.20:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 191.47 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 168.........................................................168
This was a 68 340 with a complete 69-318 top end on it,including the cam and 2bbl carb. It was one of the funnest rides I ever had. Fenderwell headers was the only nod to performance in the 65 V100 wagon. I called it my big-bore teener, cuz that is basically what it was.
Another 2 cents.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Makes me wonder how the bottom end coulda ran with a fast-rate 268 and optimized compression.
Heres what the slow-azzSum 6400 looks like;
Static compression ratio of 7.45:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 5.73:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 102.66 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 100.......................................................100

and Sum6400,with decent compression
Static compression ratio of 10.85:1.
Effective stroke is 2.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.22:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.61 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 162.......................................................162

And with a 268 cam optimized
Static compression ratio of 10.0:1.
Effective stroke is 2.96 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.22:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.61 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 177..........................................................177

Well there's probably room for one more
and with a 276 cam
Static compression ratio of 10.5:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.25:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 166.39 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 169........................................................169 good trade

So 169/100 =plus 69% more bottom end, and the 276 puts the power peak about 400 rpm lower, kindof what a streeter needs. So that might make the peak at 4800, and the shift rpm at 6100 (guessing cuz no data there), to come in at 3600 in the 727. This with a 276 cam.
So where is the shift rpm with the Low-C 292 from the last test?
Ima guessing 7000/7200, to come in at 4130/4250;; do you really want to shift your street440 at 7000/7200?
If you dont, you leave ET on the table, by way of less than optimal average hp.
So knowing that,
you might as well capture the better average hp with a smaller cam, and leave nothing on the table. Then bring up the compression, for a dynomite bottom-end. A VP of 169 is pretty nice in a streeter.
I ran a 162 in my 360 for 4 years and it was awesome;both ends and especially up the middle. I still miss it from time to time.

I tell you one thing tho, a quick search says the Summ-6400 has a 288 intake duration advertised and a 214 @.050, that is 74 degrees for the ramps. I wouldn't put something like that in my engine ever!
If I wanted a 214 cam it would be about 258 advertised. and I would put the compression up where it belonged.
See, this is what I don't get. For a guy who can twist a Torquewrench why in the world wouldn't you punch up the compression at least close to the optimum to run whatever cam you had your heart set on. I would sooner punch it up, than put a 4bbl and cam on/in it, and nowadays that's about the same price as a set of pistons,installed yet.
Here's a combo I once ran
Static compression ratio of 10.5:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.20:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 191.47 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 168.........................................................168
This was a 68 340 with a complete 69-318 top end on it,including the cam and 2bbl carb. It was one of the funnest rides I ever had. Fenderwell headers was the only nod to performance in the 65 V100 wagon. I called it my big-bore teener, cuz that is basically what it was.
Another 2 cents.
Click to expand...


With the correct converter and gears none of that matters.

If you like rolling along in high gear at 15 MPH (don't know what that is in KPH or I'd post it...id bet you can do the math), stuffing your foot in it and smoking the tires then you need to worry about that stuff.

If you want to go from A-B AQAP then the right converter eliminates the need to worry about 50 lb/ft of torque at 2000 RPM.

Me personally, I give up whatever I have to at below 3000 to get it back above 5000. But I get wood from RPM.
I also port to "kill" or at least limit low lift flow. That drives some people nuts.
 
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