How do I get from where I am to where I want to be?

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2 Darts

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I have a 72 Demon, that I am putting the finishing touches on. It was once a white, /6, factory A/C car. I want to be able to use the factory A/C controls on a reliable system to cool the car. I have changed both the body color and interior colors to Grabber Blue and black with B&W houndstooth seat inserts, respectively. It now holds a warmed up 318 running through exhaust manifolds and dual pipes. I have a Flexalite fan on the engine as a factory clutch and fan would be about ¼ inch into the radiator. The fan is shrouded and the hood seal is intact. I have not decided whether I will run a hood pad or not. I would like to be able to take the car under its own power to a reunion this summer. I think I need everything from the cowl forward. The heater portion of the system works as do the hoses and vacuum dashpots that control the doors in the housing. The condensor and evaporator have been leak tested and are good.

I also have:
1. a Sanden compressor on the engine that is basically trash, but it is useful to hold the drive belts for the setup. The clutch works.
2. the hose ends that are available to make connections between the engine compartment and the interior.
3. a NOS "harmonica" to control the unit.
4. all of the "hard" lines like the one that connects the exterior radiator (Condensor??) to the drier as well as a grommet where it passes through the radiator support.
5. a valve of some sort with a probe on it. I have no certainty that it properly works.
6. As a factory A/C car it has tinted glass, no extra tint has been on the glass.
7. Rear Air (defroster unit).
8. Though it doesn't show on photos on line, there is an intact factory A/C underdash vent register to be installed.
9. Lived with a Demon with this color combination in the deep south without A/C. This car is a tribute restification of that car, I am not concerned with how it may look(though there are lines that I willingly not crossing). It wasn't much fun then, and I'm certain would not be fun 48 years later, either. No redneck solutions involving drier flex duct, duct tape and a styrafoam cooler will be consdered. Doing without the factory A/C vents is not an option.

Small decisions I need to make:
1. Intall a hood pad. Not sure about clearance needed and available. Car has a TQ on a Performer manifold with a 1" spacer and a K&N air filter.
2. How much insulation and what type and where I will put in floor insulation to reduce exhaust heat in the car.
3. How to insulate the rear of the car. The Demon has rear air, 2-6x9 speakers in a black carpeted package shelf. Also a 1000 watt amplifier mounted between the wheel houses. Thinking about some duct work that could be removed in the summer but when in place would pull warm air for rear defroster using the amp as a heat source.

Big decision:
Who makes a cowl forward or engine compartment kit that I can install? What have others done in a situation like this? I would prefer to keep a scroll-type compressor, like the Sanden for its weight and efficiency. Would I be advised to go with R-134 or R-406? Ideally, I would find a cost-effective kit that I could install, except the drier and refrigerant, which would accomplish my goal of a car that looks and works like one that could have been made back in the day. I would be happy to turn over to a professional the installation of the drier and refrigerant.
 
I put a factory air out of another car and used all the factory parts including the compressor. I like the way it looks and works. I used R134. A lot of folks prefer the sanden compressor, but I wanted a more factory look. If you already have a sanden installed it would be easy to swap it for another sanden. The expansion valve is probably the part with sensor, that along with the drier should be replaced. They can both be purchased cheap. There is also a heater valve in the heater hose that is hard to find, but you can sub a manual valve if you need to and turn it off in the summers.

I put a dynamat clone from amazon every where I could stick it when I had the interior out. Put it in the trunk too. Really quiets the car down.
 
If you already have a sanden installed it would be easy to swap it for another sanden. Was not sure that all Sandens could use the same hardware for mounting and if clutch/pulley assemblies were interchangeable throughout the Sanden line. My compressor came off the same 85 Diplomat that I got a cop car steering box and 915J heads from. The expansion valve is probably the part with sensor, that along with the drier should be replaced. They can both be purchased cheap. Good to know. There is also a heater valve in the heater hose that is hard to find, but you can sub a manual valve if you need to and turn it off in the summers. You are talking about the heater shut-off valve usually located on the passenger side splash shield. The one near an accumulator with a vacuum line going into it? I have found several kinds of these in the market. No problem getting one as long as appearance isn't an issue. I have two that work for my requirements.

I put a dynamat clone from amazon every where I could stick it when I had the interior out. Put it in the trunk too. Really quiets the car down.
I didn't know there was an Amazon product for this function. Noise in't much of an issue for me, but heat is. Noise abatement is a sweetener on this type of product. Thanks for your opinions and reponse to my inquiry, both are helpful to me.
 
I think the dynamat like stuff I bought is called Noico. It is the same except the tin foil is a little thinner. Buy it in the biggest sheets you can get. Makes it easier to cover big areas. The stuff doesn’t seem like it sticks very well at first, but after it heats and cools a few times it is stuck so good it won’t come loose even if you try.

Use aluminum furnace tape from Hardware store to seam seal. It is much cheaper than the stuff they sell with the dynamat.

I don’t know anything about interchangeability of compressors, but seems like you could just buy a replacement for the donor car you got it from.
 
I think the dynamat like stuff I bought is called Noico. It is the same except the tin foil is a little thinner. Buy it in the biggest sheets you can get. Makes it easier to cover big areas. The stuff doesn’t seem like it sticks very well at first, but after it heats and cools a few times it is stuck so good it won’t come loose even if you try.
I"ll look for something like Noico. DynaMat seems excessively priced. This may be the way to go with this.
[QUOTE="Mike69cuda, post: 1972773998, member: 52453"I don’t know anything about interchangeability of compressors, but seems like you could just buy a replacement for the donor car you got it from.[/QUOTE] That's what I may have to do with the Demon. Expecially if I 'm not able to turn up a firewall forward kit like I have seen for the B bodied cars.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Contact Classic Air they should be able to provide you with forward only kit. I also used Noico my car. Good stuff and a lot cheaper.
 
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