how do i properly adjust my tranks kickdown linkage?

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67cudaResto89

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First off i have a 71 scamp 318 2 bbl mancini racing electronic dist kit, cam, long tube headers and 3in dual pipe. When i got the car off my uncle he had screwed alot of stuff up one being the kickdown linkage. he had a valve stem cap holding it on. I was trying to figure out where the linkage should be sitting in the slotted rod and what clips are used to hold it in place. I'm scared my trans is gonna blow. in a few weeks im putting an originaly holley 600cfm on it with an edelbrock performer intake and i was told the original linkage wouldnt work and i should go with a different setup it was a cable so i wouldnt have to adjust it. Any advice is welcomed!
 
You need a spring on the slotted part of the linkage to pull it all the way forward against the carburetor stud first. Then, with the gas pedal on the floor, you adjust the kickdown linkage so the lever on the transmission is all the way toward the rear of the travel.
 
I tried that adjustment on my swinger, when the throttle is at wot does the linkage just barely touch the throttle rod ? When I'm driving the car kinda easy it upshifts too quick ( it needs to rev a little higher ) Thanx for the help.
 
Charlie's Dart said:
I tried that adjustment on my swinger, when the throttle is at wot does the linkage just barely touch the throttle rod ? When I'm driving the car kinda easy it upshifts too quick ( it needs to rev a little higher ) Thanx for the help.
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i have the same problem. i pulled the throttle open. i then made sure the kickdown was is in its natural position.i then adjusted the slotted bracket until the rear of it was against the throttle arm .i then re-attatched the spring. now i get shifts so early that im in third at 20 mph and it wont kick back down.i have to manually shift it down. i reset it back where it was and now at least it doesnt shift so early but it wont kick down out of third but it will from 2nd to 1st.what am i doing wrong? does anyone have pics they can post of the correct adjustment?
 
Eye to eye flat out and Eye to eye at idle . geometry must be corrected for 2bbl to 4bbl. Install a part throttle kickdown servo on the valve body any 4x4 valve body has them. Early valve bodies 68 back needs to get them from a b-body or truck slant. Also 340 or max wedge govenor piston. This is what holds it longer on wide open throttle shift. Flat out it should hold second to 5500 to 6000. The lighter the piston the longer it holds the gear. The servo Is excactly what it states , a part throttle kick down. Every time it feels a load it downshifts. You don't have to stab the throttle to the floor for kick down at slow speeds. This servo is only three screws in the side of the valve body. My factory auto shifts at 6000 and hits hard. You can also turn up the line pressure . turn the allen screw in on the side of the valve body try one turn , two and you may break the u-joints. don't pull the trans lever forward when doing eye to eye in idle position. When you have it right at idle and you stab it flat out and if it don't push the trans lever back against until it stops . Move the hole in on the trans lever. Anotherwards shorten the travel on the trans lever. I did these alot. non performance trans do not have these upgrades. The 340s and any performance mopar do not have the Part throttle. All police and taxis and 4x4's did. These would cause loss of traction on slippery roads on perfomance cars. We would always do these mods at cottman to the life time gold transmissions. Performance cars would get the line pressure and the govenor piston cut on the lathe. The lighter the piston the higher the rpm's it would take for it to move out under centrifical force causing higher shift points. Putting your trans in low manually is a different gear then having it in low when its in drive. Try this stab the throttle in drive and then pull it to low and then shift second. It is totally different then shifting starting in low and then shifting to second. A consistant bracket car doesn't need the driver if you get the shifting correct at the right rpm's. I typed this fast so there may be some typo's .I have to go to the shop son's home painting his omni.
 
67cudaResto89 said:
First off i have a 71 scamp 318 2 bbl mancini racing electronic dist kit, cam, long tube headers and 3in dual pipe. When i got the car off my uncle he had screwed alot of stuff up one being the kickdown linkage. he had a valve stem cap holding it on. I was trying to figure out where the linkage should be sitting in the slotted rod and what clips are used to hold it in place. I'm scared my trans is gonna blow. in a few weeks im putting an originaly holley 600cfm on it with an edelbrock performer intake and i was told the original linkage wouldnt work and i should go with a different setup it was a cable so i wouldnt have to adjust it. Any advice is welcomed!
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go >>>>>>> HERE <<<<<<<<< and download the service manual. it will have all the info you need and more.. :)
 
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