how do i remove these drums?

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diymirage said:
so I picked up an A body 8 3/4 rear end the other day and it has 10 inch drums on it (I think)
they are the bell type drums

i backed off the adjusters to loosen the shoes up and when i put a screwdriver between the backing plate and the drum i can wiggle it but they refuse to come off
it almost seems like the drum is still attached at the very center of the axle

there is a cap in there (hard to explain, ill try to post pics tonight)
is there any chance this is threaded?

of do i just need a bigger hammer?
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That is the end of the axel,not a nut as said before.( DO NOT HIT ONE HAMMER WITH ANOTHER) not safe !!!!. . Make sure you have backed off the shoe adjusters all the way clean axel and drum where they meet, spray with blaster also spray around and through the studs Use a large drift pin (1 to 2 inch ) hit the drum between the studs a few times then hit the drum around the outher edge with a hammer, in the aera next to the weight and around, or a hard rubber one if you wish to reuse the drums . If this loosens the drum but dosen't come off the shoes are sticking on the rust ring on inside of drum most likley. Work the drum forward & aft directions and pull toward you at the same time. Hope this helps
Jack Arnew Suspension Systems
 
thanks for all the help guys


some back and forth with a rubber mallet and copious amounts of WD 40 (haven't gotten the other stuffs yet) did the trick




they are in fact 10 inch drums

looks like there is still plenty of life left on those pads right ? ;)
 
After a 30 minute workout with PB blaster & other pen lubes, hammer, propane torch & prayers I took some electronic circuit board spray, turned can upside down & frosted the center area of interest. Heard a little "tick" and drum came off.
 
Do yourself a favor and replace the pads, get the drums turned and replaced the hardware (springs,nails and the such) I did mine (rear) for the first time a few months ago and I had no idea what I was doing. Mine were as stubborn as yours and looked just as cruddy. They turned out ok. I'm working on the fronts now.
 
I know I'm a little late chiming in on this problem but I just saw the post. A long time ago I was fighting this same situation, I was beating and beating on the drums and they wouldn't budge. An old man told me to put the wheels back on the car but leave the lug nuts a little loose then drive around the block a few times making sure to make left and right turns a few times. I did what he said and both drums came loose. By leaving the lug nuts a little loose the wheel acts like a big lever pulling and pushing on the drums every time you make a turn. This rocking action breaks them loose because you have the whole weight of the car pushing/twisting the wheels against the drums. Spaying them with lube would only help of course but the beauty of the old man's suggestion is that you don't have to beat on them with a hammer and possibly break a drum.

My 2 cents!!

treblig
 
slotto said:
Do yourself a favor and replace the pads, get the drums turned and replaced the hardware (springs,nails and the such) I did mine (rear) for the first time a few months ago and I had no idea what I was doing. Mine were as stubborn as yours and looked just as cruddy. They turned out ok. I'm working on the fronts now.
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planning on replacing it all, pads, lines and cylinders

bruceo2011 said:
Coat the contact area of the axle flange with anti seize. Never a stuck drum again.
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i learned that a long time ago
i always apply a thin layer of grease to the back of my wheels (specially alloys) when installing
only makes sense the same goes here


Treblig said:
I know I'm a little late chiming in on this problem but I just saw the post. A long time ago I was fighting this same situation, I was beating and beating on the drums and they wouldn't budge. An old man told me to put the wheels back on the car but leave the lug nuts a little loose then drive around the block a few times making sure to make left and right turns a few times. I did what he said and both drums came loose. By leaving the lug nuts a little loose the wheel acts like a big lever pulling and pushing on the drums every time you make a turn. This rocking action breaks them loose because you have the whole weight of the car pushing/twisting the wheels against the drums. Spaying them with lube would only help of course but the beauty of the old man's suggestion is that you don't have to beat on them with a hammer and possibly break a drum.

My 2 cents!!

treblig
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you did catch the part where this rear end is not installed in the car right?
 
diymirage said:
planning on replacing it all, pads, lines and cylinders




you did catch the part where this rear end is not installed in the car right?
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It really didn't matter because he had already solved the problem so i posted my experience for others who might have the same issues in the future....that's why I said, "I was late to the party".

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
It really didn't matter because he had already solved the problem so i posted my experience for others who might have the same issues in the future....that's why I said, "I was late to the party".

Treblig
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gotcha


if it makes you feel any better, I still need to remove the passengerside drum :D
 
mopowers said:
Grease on the back of the wheel? Never heard of anyone doing that. What does that do?
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keeps the wheel from "fusing" to the flange, (disc or drum, doesn't matter)
just makes it sooooo much easier to remove the wheels later on down the road


ragtopfury said:
Obviously the spiders living in there were holding them on upside down.....
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yeah, they must have migrated out of the center chunk
I guess the spider gear was too small for them
 
diymirage said:
keeps the wheel from "fusing" to the flange, (disc or drum, doesn't matter)
just makes it sooooo much easier to remove the wheels later on down the road




yeah, they must have migrated out of the center chunk
I guess the spider gear was too small for them
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That's interesting. I've never had a problem removing wheels. I usually just dab a little anti-seize around the hub register on the axle, but never between the drum and the wheels. I would think it'd take some serious corrosion to fuse a drum/disc to a wheel.
 
mopowers said:
That's interesting. I've never had a problem removing wheels. I usually just dab a little anti-seize around the hub register on the axle, but never between the drum and the wheels. I would think it'd take some serious corrosion to fuse a drum/disc to a wheel.
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maybe, but it looks like you live in a part of the country where "road salt" is not a common form of pavement

ive had several cars over the years with alloy wheels on them that were a royal pain to get off
I don't know if it is caused by the road salt or not, but ever since I started using a dab of grease its been smooth sailing
 
on a side note, when I go to order parts for this, what car should I claim it is for?
 
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