How do these synchro rings look?

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HotRod777

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So I just picked up an A body overdrive. It was crazy cheap from a guy who was clearing out a basement full of parts that have been sitting for at least 15 years. (Possibly an older family members prior stash) It’s 26 output spline, A tail-housing, it has a shifter mounting plate on it, has a slip yoke included AND a small block OD bell housing. (It does not have shift levers or rods with it) He said “it’s was apart, cleaned, checked years ago and is ready to go”. I though to myself he should have included “I just lost the receipts” in his sales pitch. Lol
Anyway, I’m not doing the whole swap job without sacrificing a $40 gasket kit to take a look inside. The good news is it WAS actually apart and is still clean and dry inside with clear remnants of white assembly grease. How do the brass rings look to the knowledgeable people here? Would you just replace the seals and gaskets and send it? (The only thing I wouldn’t do is the reverse O ring.. I’ll pray for that little guy and then curse him out when he leaks. Lol.
And a few other questions. Will my 3/4 lever from my current non-OD work when I flip it over? It appears the OD levers has the rectangle register clocked slightly from parallel. And, should I expect to need to lengthen my 3/4 rod?
Thanks for any and all input.
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I wish my synchros looked that good. The last pic looks a little rounded but not terrible.

I think there should be enough thread on the shift rod to adjust it to where you need it if you flip the lever.
 
Yes, that is an overdrive box.
I have paid from $50 to $150 Canadian for those.
You cannot tell much about the brass, from pictures. The important things about the brass is how well they grab the cones and how soon/high up they do that.

Yes; The 3-4 lever has to be "upside down" on that, compared to the 1-2.
My shifter can hardly tell the difference between the levers of the Standard A833 and the O/D box. I used to interchange them regularly.
 
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Lookin changed.
Good to go.
Grease on gear makes it look hammered.
Click to expand...

So I think I’m going to pull it apart to put in the new reverse shaft O-ring. I’d hate myself if I do the whole job and that 1 O-ring leaks. I‘ve done 2 other 833’s before successfully. I have 2 questions though…
Being the input shaft comes out forward with the OD’s big front retainer does that allow the tail and cluster to angle enough to clear the counter shaft and come out? (And thus allowing the counter shaft to be re-installed completely first or do you still need to let it lay in the bottom and then lift it into place?) (I’m wondering if the OD gear is so large that it blocks things)
And, on the 2 prior I’ve worked on I always used regular red-grease to stick everything together…. Is that OK or is there a different preferred produce (other then assembly jelly, I already ordered the seal kit from Brewers and forgot to get their jelly stuff)
 
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