How do you replace the seal on rear axle.

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hobart63

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I have a leak around the pinion gear where drive shaft connects. I wanted to replace seal but, don't know how to replace it.
 
That could be a 7.25 or 8.75 rearend. Do the rearend have a removable cover on the back?
The best thing to do is to post a picture of the back of the rear end so people can tell you which rearend you have
 
Look at the next post by 73AbodEE 's :glasses7:
 
After looking at the pictures 73AbodEE put up it looks like the 8 3/4" rear end. I went to oreilly's and they told there was 2 different gaskets so I went home and looked and the back does not come apart. You have 2 drop the front of rear end with pinion gear and all.
 
hobart63 said:
After looking at the pictures 73AbodEE put up it looks like the 8 3/4" rear end. I went to oreilly's and they told there was 2 different gaskets so I went home and looked and the back does not come apart. You have 2 drop the front of rear end with pinion gear and all.
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Ok. You need to look on the lower left side of the carrier for the casting #. If the last 3 digits are 741 or 742 it's a fairly simple job. Just take off the driveshaft then the big nut that holds the yoke on (it'll be really really tight, like as in taking a 3' long 3/4" drive breaker bar to get it loose) then you pop the old seal out and drive the new one in using a little shelac sealer around the outer edge, grease the part of the yoke that slips into the seal, install the pinion nut using a little red loctite and torque it back down to 240 ft. lbs. If the last 3 digits are 489 it's a bunch harder cause they used a crush sleeve. To do it right the 3rd member needs dropped out and completely taken apart and a new crush collar installed and pinion bearing preload set and the whole shebang. If you've never done it or don't have the proper tools (inch lb. rotating torque wrench, dial indicator, spanner wrench to fit and a large ft. lb. torque wrench) you'd be better off letting a professional do it because it's not an easy job and if you screw up the pinion preload setting or backlash or carrier bearing setting you'll trash everything.
 
Thanks fishy86, I will check casting number. I really appreciate everyone for helping me out. It's my first classic car and mopar and I am trying to learn as I go.
 
Your welcome. A factory service manual is a great investment for someone wanting to learn and do their own work. Their not real cheap at $50-75 but their miles ahead of a Haynes or Chilton's manual. Worth every penny IMO. You might look around and see if you can find one. I got mine off of E-bay for $60
 
fishy68 said:
Your welcome. A factory service manual is a great investment for someone wanting to learn and do their own work. Their not real cheap at $50-75 but their miles ahead of a Haynes or Chilton's manual. Worth every penny IMO. You might look around and see if you can find one. I got mine off of E-bay for $60
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hobart Xs2 on the factory service manual. Even if you have some of your work done you will know if the mechanic is knowledgable. I remember your thread about the rear seal and the mechanic saying your car did use one. If you come up with another mechanic like that then you can whip your book out and show him where it is.
 
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