How do you use the C-3053 burnishing tool?

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Actually ... A baseball bat ( and a Hockey stick). are not all that simple to use . Correctly !

That burnishing tool is far simpler.
After trying to remember , I cut the teeth off the original dist. shaft and hammered it in and messed w/ it till it freed up. Then used it to prime the pump later . Lost 2 priming tools and didn`t want to buy another.
 
The tool is used to drive it in. It is a slight press fit. Then the tool is drawn back through to expand it and finish the ID to size. The area of the shaft that's in the bushing while driving it is a few thou small to let it compress some. On the end of the shaft are 2 cutter/expansion rings which are slightly larger. They correctly size the ID as they are pulled through the bushing. I've never had it pull the bushing back out while doing it. Works like a charm
View attachment 1715350805 .

Would you mind measuring the OD of the expansion rings?
 
The upper 1.500" smooth part of the shaft is .483". The rings are .487. The minor OD (grooves) of the rings are .433. The entire shank under the step is right at 1.800". The finish is very smooth. The rings have a fairly sharp edge. It's been awhile since I've used it. I called them "cutters" but I don't think they actually removed any material. Just swedged the bushing in the bore as someone else stated and burnished the bore.

burnish - verb 1. polish (something, especially metal) by rubbing.

swedge - verb 1. To shape metal using a hammer or other force.
 
burnish - verb 1. polish (something, especially metal) by rubbing.


swedge - verb 1. To shape metal using a hammer or other force.[/QUOTE]

As in : I burnished my monkey this morning.

And. : I gently Swedged the guy for being an asshole.
 
burnish - verb 1. polish (something, especially metal) by rubbing.
swedge - verb 1. To shape metal using a hammer or other force.

As in : I burnished my monkey this morning.

And. : I gently Swedged the guy for being an asshole.[/QUOTE]

Words have meaning.
 
I have an intermediate shaft that I filed a sharp angled groove into....I press the bushing with a hammer and 1/2 extension, then apply some grease and run the grooved shaft through the bushing ,turning it in like tightening a bolt. Drop the new shaft in and done.
X3
 
That will bring it to size, or close, but it won't swedge the bushing tight in the bore.
Notice they fit the intermediate shaft till its "pressed" into the block?...that's called "interference" fit...and why its sized afterward.
You're not understanding...
 
Could someone essentially press a new bushing in with a spare intermediate shaft, then resize it by hammering through a shaft made with the proper OD (same as the expansion rings on the tool)? The resizing shaft could easily be spun up on a lathe.
 
Notice they fit the intermediate shaft till its "pressed" into the block?...that's called "interference" fit...and why its sized afterward.
You're not understanding...

Would that not be honing it?

The factory tool swages the bushing in place, while burnishing it to the proper ID.
 
Could someone essentially press a new bushing in with a spare intermediate shaft, then resize it by hammering through a shaft made with the proper OD (same as the expansion rings on the tool)? The resizing shaft could easily be spun up on a lathe.
I know this is an old thread, but yes you can do that. It would require a very gradual taper to start with and the tool would need to be very smooth or polished.
I seem to remember that this is the way it was done when burnishing the bushes on some of the old English gearboxes.
For the dummies who don't understand why you burnish the bush, it also presses the OD of the bush hard into the machined surface of the block. Forming it into every high and low ridge/groove left by the machining process. This gives it a superior grip over just hammering it in and then butchering out the ID with whatever tool you have handy..
 
I use the aftermarket ones. But honestly there's no way it's going to come lose after butchering if that's the way you want to do it. It might wear the crap out of the shaft or bushing, ultimately losing timing accuracy, but it won't spin in the block. Maybe in the old English gear boxes. No way in a Chrysler.
 
I pulled an intermediate shaft out of a 440 and the bushing was stuck on the shaft. It had the aluminum bushing. This was the only 1 ever to do that. I had to take the oil pump off and drive the shaft out. Kim
 
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