Just got my motor back from the machine shop. I went from a eddie headed 420" cast crank 10.2-1 compression to a eddie headed 422" 4340 crank 11.65-1 compression motor. Now for what I changed, went from a stock eddie 2.02/1.60 valve to a lightweight ferrara 2.08/1.60 valve. Also went to a smaller diameter comp cam double spring. Was using a 1.470 diameter double spring and now a 1.250 spring my engine builder is using on alot of ls stuff (he couldn't say enough good things about this spring). Also went with a much lighter lifter about 30 grams less per. Piston weight was a 623 gram solid dish vs. 510 gram flat top both are Diamond. Crank was a 4.00" cast mopar performance at 62 pounds and now a BPE 4.00" 4340 at 56.8.
How much power was it worth?
- Thread starter bignick
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The only thing that added HP was the added cubic inches and the larger valve. Everything else was a light weight/lower mass issues which frees up the ability to rev quicker and allow the power to be made and dispensed quicker and easier.
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There not a maker of power but a item that frees up the power made rather than waste/loose it in moving the extra weight/mass.
In general, 1pt. of compression increase is approx. a 3% gain.
I can not say exactly how much power the larger valve gives, but there is a few extra cfm in there to help. How much more cfm your getting in the .06 difference at the various lift point I don't know.
IMO, your not going to notice any HP gains but will (possibly) notice the quicker revs. It may seem like the engine is making the power easier.
And/or
There not a maker of power but a item that frees up the power made rather than waste/loose it in moving the extra weight/mass.
In general, 1pt. of compression increase is approx. a 3% gain.
I can not say exactly how much power the larger valve gives, but there is a few extra cfm in there to help. How much more cfm your getting in the .06 difference at the various lift point I don't know.
IMO, your not going to notice any HP gains but will (possibly) notice the quicker revs. It may seem like the engine is making the power easier.
Very hard to judge with changes like this. I put a 2.30 valve in a pair of 440-1 heads,replacing 2.25s and picked up flow, but the car didn't gain a lick of ET. Hopefully things will fall your way with these changes. The compression increase ought to help, the rest is a crap shoot.
I agree I made the motor more efficient, put a better port matched M1 on this motor, filled the block half way, put 2 bolt billet steel main caps, and put ARP main studs. It had milidon bolts holding the caps on when I bought it. This whole thing started because a valve guide was too tight and the valve hit the piston after it grabbed. I bought the motor at that point cheap only to find the bolt that has to be drilled to install the milidon gear drive had fallen out and made its way into the oil pan and beat up the rods, pistons and sent shavings into the bearings. This motor had run 10.40's in a 3400 LBS dart street car.
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