That's turn key and reliable.
How much should a basic 340 rebuild cost?
- Thread starter BlueSwinger
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rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
mad dog, I see you are in CT? What shop are you using if you don't mind? If a dyno session is included that's really not bad since you are walking out the door with peace of mind. I've dynoed a few engines, they seem to run at least $700 and up depending on what you're doing.
Putting a new Hemi in any older car is a really expensive proposition. With all the wiring, mounts, exhaust etc. you could be easily looking at $20K.
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
What year was that? That is the the question and the reason of the resurrection this old of thread to give a time line of the cost.
Is it ever.
rmchrgr...Im useing Larrys Auto Machine in Groton, they were recommended by a few mopar buddies of mine. He did my last 340 and a 440 for me.
Before i put my foot in my mouth about certain costs and whats included I would like to get the 340 done, after that i can provide more accurate information.
His shop is known to be higher in price for their services , he has the latest and greatest machines and runs a very neat and organized shop with several employees, very professional atmosphere and down to earth guys working there. Im estimating that with a full stock build, assembly and dyno/break in i will be in the 7-8K range based on what i paid in the past. The 340 is based on the factory 68 4-speed with X heads, nothing fancy for my Duster, just a cruiser. I can provide exact numbers once i have receipts in hand, probably later this summer...Rich
Before i put my foot in my mouth about certain costs and whats included I would like to get the 340 done, after that i can provide more accurate information.
His shop is known to be higher in price for their services , he has the latest and greatest machines and runs a very neat and organized shop with several employees, very professional atmosphere and down to earth guys working there. Im estimating that with a full stock build, assembly and dyno/break in i will be in the 7-8K range based on what i paid in the past. The 340 is based on the factory 68 4-speed with X heads, nothing fancy for my Duster, just a cruiser. I can provide exact numbers once i have receipts in hand, probably later this summer...Rich
This thread started in Oct. 2010. All I know is that everything costs more today. I guess I am no help.
There are reasons all my builds consists of finding mostly wore out but usable engines!
There are reasons all my builds consists of finding mostly wore out but usable engines!
With a used high mileage engine, over 120,000 miles I would at least replace all of the bearings and rings,oil pump. A re ring kit isn't that expensive and is cheap insurance. I wouldn't want to have to pull the engine back out after a few months because something went wrong. I figure that my time is worth something. I know that some on here have ran a magnum hard with like 135,000 miles on it,but how long did they run it before it needed work. Replacing the rings and bearings is just my opinion I'm not saying that they should be replaced, that would be up to the individual
If you can assemble an engine for that you are skipping things.
There is no way I assemble a complete engine for that. Double it. At least.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Here we are in a basic 340 rebuild thread, and this guy comes in talking about charging $1,000 to assemble a bone stock rebuild. The only one forgetting things, is newtroll
He either doesnt like to read ...or he just looks for ways to spin something into an argument and pedestal himself.
His interpretations are terrible. Can anyone imagine having to deal with this guy for an engine build? Imagine when you don't go the direction he insists upon that your stuff magically blows apart at the racetrack and he blames you when in reality he simply loses interest when you don't do it his way and sabotages the build. LOL
Just imagine arguing with this guy and him setting you into a full-blown rage where you beat the eyeballs out of his head with a ball peen hammer.
As i stated....400 to 500 bucks, more if a custom builder is involved for something like a stroker or something outside of a bone stock rebuild.
We're talking about **** anyone can pick up a book to find the torque specs and bolt it together if the Machine Shop is worth a **** at all, nothing even needs to be checked, though you always should anyways...always check the work.
He either doesnt like to read ...or he just looks for ways to spin something into an argument and pedestal himself.
His interpretations are terrible. Can anyone imagine having to deal with this guy for an engine build? Imagine when you don't go the direction he insists upon that your stuff magically blows apart at the racetrack and he blames you when in reality he simply loses interest when you don't do it his way and sabotages the build. LOL
Just imagine arguing with this guy and him setting you into a full-blown rage where you beat the eyeballs out of his head with a ball peen hammer.
As i stated....400 to 500 bucks, more if a custom builder is involved for something like a stroker or something outside of a bone stock rebuild.
We're talking about **** anyone can pick up a book to find the torque specs and bolt it together if the Machine Shop is worth a **** at all, nothing even needs to be checked, though you always should anyways...always check the work.
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So you don’t gap the rings? Verify compression?
Mic the crank and measure the bearing clearance?
Degree the cam?
That’s minimum **** that needs to be done. And it takes time.
You either cut corners or you don’t value your labor.
Neither one is a good thing.
But it’s ok in your book because it’s just a stock 340.
Got it.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
I've done it so many times... ya know, after a while you become very fast and efficient with your work.
That means there are only two explanations for what he charges.
He does the work and doesn’t cut corners.
Or, he’s a scammer and he’s just charging you that much to screw you out of money.
I suggest the former is far more likely than the latter, because when someone is putting THEIR NAME on it, they want it to be as good as it can be.
Quality work takes TIME. TIME is money.
If you are shopping around for the lowest price don’t expect the best work or skills.
What is charged says a lot about what you think about your own work.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Turns every thread into a pissing contest. Not everything is the same all over the country. East Coast West Coast completely different places and pricing.
In a case where this guy is doing a basic rebuild, stock replacement Pistons, light Mill on the heads, regrind valves w new guides, sometimes the deck surface of the block if its rough. Plasti gauge everything, Gap Rings blah blah blah Etc and bolt it together. Basic, not blueprinted. Did the title of this thread say blueprinted?
That's why I stated custom being more money... but no matter what I put, you'll keep picking.
How many stock engines went hundreds of thousands of miles not being squared decked, not being blueprinted and true to their compression ratio and all this other ****, thank you very much...
In a case where this guy is doing a basic rebuild, stock replacement Pistons, light Mill on the heads, regrind valves w new guides, sometimes the deck surface of the block if its rough. Plasti gauge everything, Gap Rings blah blah blah Etc and bolt it together. Basic, not blueprinted. Did the title of this thread say blueprinted?
That's why I stated custom being more money... but no matter what I put, you'll keep picking.
How many stock engines went hundreds of thousands of miles not being squared decked, not being blueprinted and true to their compression ratio and all this other ****, thank you very much...
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and this is why people just say screw it and buy complete stroker motors delivered to your door.
they sit down and do the math and figure it's not worth the crazy making and just open their wallet and melt a credit card.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
People forget what a basic rebuild is. A basic rebuild in my book and about everybody I know, means to clean everything, bore and hone the block to size, resize the rods, grind the crankshaft, refurb the heads, etc...then bolt it together.
Stock replacement stuff.
If they want something other than stock, the price goes up obviously.
exactly, we're not building pro-stockers over here.
while the prices of parts and labor have gone up, the numbers today are at times down right outlandish. i don't care if you're Hans Mezger, it shouldn't be a smooth G to knock together a stock bottom end.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
So let's add the extras in there now since we have our basic assembly cost, for those who don't know Google assembly and look at the definition. Let's go outside of the realm of bone stock...outside of stock replace chain sets that actually have 8 degrees of adjustment.... ok, 80 bucks and ill degree it in....say this engine requires mock-up, that's extra to the tune of about 200... but to what extent of mockup are we talking?
Let's cc all the chambers once they're assembled , 100 bucks.
What if one is smaller and needs relieving and remeasssuring.. what's that worth?
50? 80? 100?
Let's toss in every variable in the blanket price of a 1000 dollars while we're at it.. for a basic stock rebuild. Lol look...there is what they call Base pricing and then there is price list for all of the extras after that which equates to building a performance engine and no longer a basic stock rebuild.
I cant do it like that. I'm not going to charge somebody a blanket price that high when a lot less is needed or a lot more. So I go back to my original statement, 4 to 500 bucks to bolt together your engine and check the basic things like oil/bearing clearance, ring gap, lifter preload, cam timing, seat seal... so that it will survive and give you a long service life...after that, may I refer you to the price sheet per operation performed..
Let's cc all the chambers once they're assembled , 100 bucks.
What if one is smaller and needs relieving and remeasssuring.. what's that worth?
50? 80? 100?
Let's toss in every variable in the blanket price of a 1000 dollars while we're at it.. for a basic stock rebuild. Lol look...there is what they call Base pricing and then there is price list for all of the extras after that which equates to building a performance engine and no longer a basic stock rebuild.
I cant do it like that. I'm not going to charge somebody a blanket price that high when a lot less is needed or a lot more. So I go back to my original statement, 4 to 500 bucks to bolt together your engine and check the basic things like oil/bearing clearance, ring gap, lifter preload, cam timing, seat seal... so that it will survive and give you a long service life...after that, may I refer you to the price sheet per operation performed..
No, actually I stated my OPINION and you got your mangina inflamed.
You think your opinion is all that counts. It’s not.
So cry to a moderator because that’s what you’re all about.
You make my opinion an issue because you are (evidently) a hack.
lol what a classic. No one is talking about 1k to assemble a Pro Stock engine.
Go clown somewhere else.
whatever, keep sniffing your own farts there Bob Glidden Jr. Jr.
do you need a hug because somebody isn't agreeing with you? remember, this isn't romper room, there are different points of view and not everything is viewed thru the lens of the drag racing goggles of newyellowrat™
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
No you accused me of skipping things, that's what you did.
I'll be damned if there is a competition on this board that's for sure. The respect I have for some people here is diminishing greatly
lol. My opinion makes you cry. Boohoo.
Making the claim that 1k is what it costs to assemble a Pro Stock engine shows you are either stupid or trolling. Probably both.
Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate guys like MO and you because when the tire kickers and coupon clippers come in I send them to guys like you.
I guess the glaring fact is guys like you are either not capable of doing precision work or you won’t do it.
That says something about YOU. You lack the skill, talent and tools to do it right so you just half *** and then claim it’s good enough.
lol. You are skipping ****. Or you don’t value your labor. Or both.
Charge what ever you want. There is a big market for what you do.
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