How Shall I Suspend My Rearend?

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DEVIOUSDUSTER

DEVIOUSDUSTER

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Hey gang,

I'm at a crossroads in deciding which rear suspension set up best suites my needs.

What I have:
1970 Duster with a 410 Stroker (all forged internals) making 500hp/550 ftlb.
Planning to run a 150 shot of Nitrous down the road.

Built TorqFlite 727

Dana 60 w/ 3.73 gears. Axle housing = stock length

Super Stock Springs with Cheapo Monroe Shocks

The car is almost ready for paint. I'm trying to figure out what will work best and is most cost effective for a car that will be 80% street and 20% track before I bolt'r back together. I don't really want a pro-touring set up. I want it to have that old muscle car feel and also hook up when accelorating hard.

Tips and suggestions welcome. I'm no suspension expert so any insight is appreciated.
 
I would go with basically what you have. I think it would do well with what you are looking for. Grab an old Mopar chassis manual and use that to further tune things.
 
Ditto.

Maybe some better rear shocks or since it's in body work make sure your wheel wells are big enough now for any tire you might plan in the future. With the Dana you'll have alot of good hard use without worry. Are your frames tied now, if not good idea too.

If you had $ burning a hole in your pocket calverts would be a good choice, but for 80% street not really needed at this point. Money likely better put elsewhere.

Have fun, good luck.
 
Thanks for the quick reply guys. I could live with what I have but also upgrade the shocks as mentioned.

I had a buddy recommend ladder bars. He claimed they'd be the best thing I could do to the car in terms of gaining traction. They look pretty popular and not crazy hard to install or outrageously expensive.

I'm just wondering if I have to give up my SS springs and if the stock fuel tank would get in the way? (I don't want to run a fuel cell or buy coil overs)

Anybody run these with good results?
 
I do have subframe connectors welded in and don't plan on mini tubbing the wheel wells.

I think a 28 x 10.5 tire should fit the stock wells

The Mopar Chassis Tune book sounds like a good investment at this point
 
DEVIOUSDUSTER said:
I had a buddy recommend ladder bars. He claimed they'd be the best thing I could do to the car in terms of gaining traction.
Click to expand...

Several of us took the time to give you the best recommendation for your specific requirements.


Are you changing the requirements now? If you just want max traction and not to worry about drivability or cost, we can take you in another direction.

What do you want out of your car exactly?
 
No I think you guys pretty much got the nail on the head. Sounds like a lot of people run the SS springs and keep up with the best of'm.

I'm just wondering if ladder bars are really worth the hype and the modifications.

The car is already stripped down and before everything gets put back together painted or powder coated, I just want to know if there is a cheap suspension upgrade I can use now and not kick myself for not doing later.

I'd like to think my build so far is pretty stout, but if it doesn't hook up - it's all for not

Thank you again for the help
 
Maybe a adj. pinion snubber will help.Remeber your throwing 650hp at the rear wheels.Be prepared for breaking parts.My opinion is to upgrade to stronger u-joints(1350).JMO.Oh get a driveshaft loop also.
 
I have the snubber and the shims. The bigger U-joints are a great point and the driveshaft loop a must.

Thanks
 
DEVIOUSDUSTER said:
I have the snubber and the shims. The bigger U-joints are a great point and the driveshaft loop a must.

Thanks
Click to expand...
When I upgraded to a narrowed Dana,I also found a new chromemoly driveshaft with 1350 u-joints and 904 slipyoke from Mancini,s.It was costly,but no more weak link from trans back.:D
 
The ladder bar option is appealing no doubt. But a good kit will run 400-700, maybe with shocks, now add all the labor to install and the price would go up a good deal. For 80% street I would say not worth it.
With alot of street use your going to likely, eventually, bend the locator bar, wear out springs and shocks faster and with the limited time you actually race it it will be hard, not impossible, to really get the rear optimally dialed in.
You can keep the SS springs, add ladders and floaters and not need coil overs but your going to wear out springs faster and add weight.

Just as an FYI. The springs are the best bet and cost effective as other have said too. Good luck
 
Alright, it's looking pretty clear on what to do. I'm sold on the idea of stick with what I have. SS springs and some upgraded shocks will be the extent of my rear suspension build. Thanks for the great input guys. Kept me from throwin away some major coin!
 
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