How to check for spark

[DartVadar]

My car (73 dart) is getting pretty close to starting it for the first time with the new motor, so I want to make sure that it will start right up so I can break in the hydraulic flat tappet cam. All new ignition wiring on the stock electronic ignition.

I know by cranking the motor I could potentially damage the cam, so I want to check every system before I try to start it. Is there any way to check for spark without cranking the motor over? I just want to make sure I hooked everything up correctly.

 

[TrailBeast]

You can pull the distributor and spin it by hand,then drop it back in.

 

[67Dart273]

Yup, and you can fairly accurately static time it for starting. What kind of dist. do you have?

Bring the "marks" up with no1 ready to fire coming up at TDC. Either look that both no1 valves are shut, or put your finger in the no1 hole and feel for compression. You'll have to crank the engine to do that. If you look at both the no1 and no6 valves, you can determine "which stroke" the no1 cylinder is "on" If both no1 valves are closed, no1 will fire, if both no6 valves are closed then no 6 will fire.

So either drop the dist in to no 6, or wrench the crank 1 turn.

Bring the marks up NOT to TDC, but rather where you want the timing, maybe? 15 BTC

Drop in the dist. after testing for spark. Rotate the vacuum for a "good swing" and retard the dist by rotating CW. Slowly rotate CCW (advanced) until either the points just open or until the reluctor tip is centered in the reluctor core. Snug the dist. enough that it will "stay put."

Now determine which tower the rotor is approaching as it comes CW, and that will be your starting point for the no1 wire.

A NOTE on checking spark!!!

You don't want to be cranking the engine, but you DO want to check spark "in start."

So to do this, pull one of the quick disconnect connectors off at the starter relay. This will prevent the starter from activating. Now have someone twist the key to "start" while you spin the distributor and check spark. This will then have the key to simulate starting.

Then check AGAIN with the key in the "run" position"

 

[BillGrissom]

Dang. That was my plan too, but a comedy of errors had me cranking too long, then engine dying on my startup on a new cam. Doesn't seem to have hurt the cam, since I don't have aggressive lift or springs, and lubed it well.

I had even checked the spark by spinning the distributor by hand, but w/ ignition in "run". I hadn't wired IGN2 in my new system, ASSuming IGN1 was powered while cranking (wrong), so listen to 67Dart273 above. Then found distributor was 180 out. I know it was right initially, but had removed it for some reason and, ... Then, engine wouldn't fire while cranking, but did sometimes the second I released "crank". Then would die after a few seconds and I found gas filling up the throat and pouring on the manifold (thankfully no fire). After I found the carb needle on the garage floor (fell out during custom fuel plumbing), no more flooding. Then it ran OK. Don't let me work on your car.

 

[KitCarlson]

I prime the oil system, no gas to carb, plugs out. I have a grounded u-channel tapped for plugs. Use timing light on #1, with help of person cranking it a couple revolutions, verify base timing.

 

[BillGrissom]

I also prime the oil passages after an engine has been sitting long or re-worked. I put a tee in the oil sensor port and apply oil thru a little hand-pumped garden sprayer. I should get one of those long hex rods that replaces the oil pump shaft to use a hand drill, though wouldn't work for my slant.