How to cut out rear wheel wells (radius wheel)

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Andre68

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Hey how's it goin, got a 64 barracuda I'm building, I would like to cut out the rear wheel wells, to give it a round appearance.

I'm not to sure how to go about it. If anyone has any ideas on how to go about it that would be awesome. I searched the forum but couldn't really find any instructionals or something like that.

I did find some pictures though if early A cudas.

Alexander bros 66 cuda build with the rounded out wheel well. Some online stuff too, under glass cuda.

Give me a sec to upload photos... My computer is being weird hah
 

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These are flared out to accomodate a 1970 Dodge Challenger sure-grip 8 3/4 differential. Cut out around the fender, weld a supportive tubular frame to support the body filler; fill, sand, and paint.
 

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I'm sure a 53 GM truck fender is a totally different metal to work with. What I did on it was use a 1/4" metal rod to create the arc I wanted. Tack it inside the fender and then cut slowly with the cut-off wheel. I took care to take measurements and tack in the same spots and made sure the rod was the same length on both sides.

Just an idea but I think it will be much harder on a Barracuda wheel area though.
 
I have bent a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit around a tire
to get the round shape for a gassers fenders I did years ago. I built both sides of the car at the same time to keep the car consistent left to right.
If I was to do it again I would use some 3/8 fuel line as it would be easier to bend into shape. The electrical conduit was
very much a overkill on strength once all the welding done.
You could have picked that car up by its fender openings.
I'll see if I still have a picture of that old car.
 
I found a picture of the wheel openings. This was on a 51
Chevy coupe so I will spare you the photos of the entire car.
It was a lot more of a slab sided car than a barracuda.
Also found a photo of the homebuilt sheet metal hood scoop.
I find this kind of body metal work much more enjoyable than
the spotweld cutting and replace with a overpriced repo
stamped panel I am working with now.
 

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Wow looks great!

Thanks for all the replies I apprectiate it!

Quick question!

How do I make sure I get the right amount of gap? So that way it's not the exact same shape of the tire, to give me a few inches of tire clearance all around.

Or will the slick mounted and all naturally have a tire to wheel well lip clearance?

Thanks for all the replies
 
I had bent the conduit around a truck tire I had laying around
that was a couple inches taller than the tires that would be used on the car. If the truck tire is 2" taller than your slick you will have a 1" clearance all around.
Take the measurement from the center of the truck rim to its
outer tread and transfer this to the quarter panel to get your height. The car must have all of its weight on the suspension
or leaf springs for this to work properly. Just measure from the center of the axle up.
You can also take the same measurement and mark the quarter panel ahead & behind the center of axle to locate your
forward and after so the tire will be centered in new opening.
 
Alright so let me see if I got this or I'm over complicating it...

1)rear suspension must be in, and I take it held up with jack stands on the rear axles putting all of the vehicles weight on it.

2)take a tire that is a couple inches taller than my actually tire

3)using 3/8 brake line, use that to form the tires shape by forming it on tire. I take it only go half and half, by that I mean only form the upper half of tire.

4) measure distance from center of wheel to the end of tire tread.

5)hold measuring tape up to center of axle, at the end of calculated length dot it with I take it a sharpie.

6)hold prebent brake line to wheel well, tack weld it in and with a cut off wheel, carefully go at it until you have a nice cut formed along prebent brake line

7)finish adding some more tack weld on brake line, fill with bondo, shape and done.

Is this right?
 
Brake line would be to thin. A 3/8" tube or 5/16" solid rod
would be easier to weld.
 
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