How to free up my 440

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LocuMob

LocuMob

Fluid Technician
Joined
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I have a 440 that is stuck, not sure how bad but it was spinning when I got it 2 years ago. Plugs are out so I can spray into the cylinders. What do you guys and gals recommend to get things loosened up and spinning? I'd sure hate to have to build an engine to set up my car, and would prefer to use this one.
 
Diesel works well for something around some peoples houses.
Marvel Mystery oil, Kerosene, trans fluid all work well and it's a good idea to let it soak for a day before tuning it.
 
Was this stored outside in the elements? in a car outside? In a shed or something? I would pull the valve covers and make sure the valves are not stuck. lately that seems to be what I've found for issues with stuck engines.
 
moper said:
Was this stored outside in the elements? in a car outside? In a shed or something? I would pull the valve covers and make sure the valves are not stuck. lately that seems to be what I've found for issues with stuck engines.
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Excellent point. Never get so locked into trying to solve a problem that something simple and obvious is overlooked. It is kind of like spending hours tracing the cause for no brake lights only to find it was a burned fuse.
 
Had a two ton truck years ago with a stuck motor. Put small amount of diesel in each cylinder let it soak a couple hours. Pulled with another vehicle on graveled road . With it in 2-3rd gear popped the clutch a few times . First few times the drive wheels just slid. Then it broke loose and ran for years. If yours is an automatic a different approach is needed. MMO mentioned above may be a better additive.
Yote
 
Fill the cylinders with EvapoRust and let it sit.
 
It's sitting in my garage, which is a piece of crap shanty, must of been moisture in the air. Took the plugs out and didn't get around to putting them back in. It turned over before, I checked that as soon as I got it. I'll see what I have vs what I can get to out down the cylinders.
 
I've had a car drag the rear tires trying to free up a stuck engine. The only thing that was stuck was the oil pump drive to the bushing and the bushing to the block. The last 383 I had turned over fine... but had 8 stuck valves and associated bent pushrods from turning it. Others were the piston pins to pistons, locking them in place. I have not had many that were stuck by rings or with parts that were reached by adding anything to the cylinders. Just my experience anyway.
If yours was in damp, pull the exhaust manifolds and look in the ports. If any have the valve open, that's probably going to have the stuck parts. I'd pull the covers. If it's full of rust, pull it apart. No need to waste effort.
 
I agree with mopar. Last one I had stuck was my circle track car and it had a cylinder full of water hydrolocking it. Needed new jugs a complete dissemble anyway.
 
roccodart440 said:
I agree with mopar. Last one I had stuck was my circle track car and it had a cylinder full of water hydrolocking it. Needed new jugs a complete dissemble anyway.
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I was hoping to avoid that, but it makes sense to see what I'm up against. I'm going to swap intakes so the valve covers will need to come off, I know one bank had a bit of sludge, looked like oily dirt, and might swap heads for piece of mind too. If I'm that far I guess I'll know what's going on. And I just wanted to fire the engine and go! I'll still out some Marvel Mystery Oil or Evaporust if they carry it at the local parts store.
 
The engine I was referring to needed some effort but very little cash to bring back to servicable... but rather than waste time and cash trying, just look before u leap.
 
moper said:
The engine I was referring to needed some effort but very little cash to bring back to servicable... but rather than waste time and cash trying, just look before u leap.
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Exactly, better safe than sorry. It's only a few nuts and bolts. This engine will only get what it needs, I just need it to set up the car, a test fit engine so to speak.
 
Aaarrrggghhhhhh!!!!!!! As Charlie Brown would say, and with good reason. I took the heads off tonight and I found this:

IMG_20170515_214833.jpg


Guess I'm building an engine no matter what. Sure would have pissed me off to get it spinning and put it in and find out it's a P.O.S. engine. I have an "on the road" date of September, so I guess I planned ahead. Still, F*#k! I didn't want to do this. Guess I'll build am engine for the truck that will go.in the Dart first for set up. How's that crowd sourcing work?
 
So which engine block should I use for a build? I have a few to choose from:

1) C440 67 block 6-20-66 date code. Bare with caps and reground crank. Has light surface rust but was cleaned up.

2) G440 71 short block out of a Challenger I'm told.

3) J440 73 RV/truck short block 3-2-73 date code

4) 6T440 76 block and caps 2-5-76 date code slight damage bottom of one cylinder from rod failure

5) 7T440 77 block and caps

I'm planning on a .484 Purple shaft cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM, Edelbrock 1409 750cfm, 727, tti headers and Flowmasters over the rear axle, 8 3/4 3.23's. Going in a 67 Dart.
 
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