Mine is a obd2 as well.
How to ground PDC?
- Thread starter robcuda
- Start date
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Send the PDC to its bedroom and tell it that it can't come out for a month; no tv, no internet, no phone - it's grounded...
Haaa, too funny!!!
Whyjay
Member
The speed sensor wires were reversed. Once corrected it ran great.
Also, I made sure the sensor grounds were located on a common stud. And that stud was tied to body and engine grounds.
Cool, can you please elaborate on your sensor grounds? Bear with me, (edit) my harness (97) only has two stock grounds, harness eyelet and AC ground eyelet. Did your stock harness have more than this or did you create these extra grounds. Thanks in advance.
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Whyjay
Member
Sorry. Wish I could remember more about how I did the conversion wiring. It’s been 19 years since then. I tried to keep it as close to stock as possible just eliminating all unneeded wires. Mine was a 99 OBD2.
Hi guys, so I brought my cuda over to a guys house who has a scanner (snap on 2500). The scanner had trouble communicating but eventually did. Set the fuel sync. However, I was only able to get the scanner to tell me if sync was OK or NOT. The scanner stayed on zero and wouldn't let me dial in, I thought it would give me +/- readings but for some reason would not. Also, distributer was REALLY difficult to turn when engine was up to full temp, weird...any thoughts?
Test drove the car and ran/shifted great for ~3 miles, then pulled into a lot, put it in park and started sputtering/died.
No new codes.
Other odd thing was I received two coolant temp readings from the scanner (my year has the two coolant sensors). One reading was 203F assuming from the computer sensor, and got another reading of ~88F on the other scanner coolant temp. The second coolant sensor (single pin) I have is going to a aftermarket guage. I did not expect to see a second coolant reading and ideas why?
I'm still left scratching my head, thinking the aftermarket TPS I installed could be bad and I may throw a part at it again.
Any thoughts are appreciated!
Test drove the car and ran/shifted great for ~3 miles, then pulled into a lot, put it in park and started sputtering/died.
No new codes.
Other odd thing was I received two coolant temp readings from the scanner (my year has the two coolant sensors). One reading was 203F assuming from the computer sensor, and got another reading of ~88F on the other scanner coolant temp. The second coolant sensor (single pin) I have is going to a aftermarket guage. I did not expect to see a second coolant reading and ideas why?
I'm still left scratching my head, thinking the aftermarket TPS I installed could be bad and I may throw a part at it again.
Any thoughts are appreciated!
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If the tps was bad you’d get a code. If the second cts is going to an aftermarket gauge, how is the scanner seeing it? Last question, what is the fuel pressure doing when the engine sputters and dies?
Regarding cts I was puzzled why the scanner was picking up a second reading. Made me think if the computer thinks the engine temp is 88f it would not run right. Have no idea why it had a second reading.
I was able to run around and pop hood as it was sputtering, regulator gauge was steady.
I also added a second trunk battery ground to the body, no difference. Hmmm.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Is agree if the ecu is seeing two different cts readings it will whine and cry about it and the engine will not be happy. Use a laser temp pointer on the thermostat housing and find out which sensor is accurate. But again if you had a cts problem you’ll see a code. Anything regarding fuel or emissions will throw a code. And coolant temp is directly related to fueling.
Good point. My first time using a scanner and that makes sense. I’m going to make a list of things to look for when I go back to use the scanner. Any suggestions on key things to look for?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Ultimately you’d like to datalog all the critical sensors in real time;
Cam
Crank
Coolant temp
Manifold pressure
O2
Air inlet
Throttle position
Idle air control
Those are the key players in making it run. But if you aren’t getting any codes and the engine has been running long enough to go in to closed loop then those sensors are fine.
Cam
Crank
Coolant temp
Manifold pressure
O2
Air inlet
Throttle position
Idle air control
Those are the key players in making it run. But if you aren’t getting any codes and the engine has been running long enough to go in to closed loop then those sensors are fine.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Searched around on a few Ram truck forums and it seems a common problem for running good in open loop and then randomly shutting off after a few minutes is solved by a crankshaft position sensor replacement. I’d hate to tell you to throw parts at it but others have cured a very similar problem doing that. See if you can scope the crank sensor while it’s running and get it act up.
Good suggestions. I will order a crank sensor and scope the new/old one next time I scan. Thanks for the help!
Interesting that I read a mechanics comments on web that if scanner has trouble communicating (had this problem)it’s usually due to a bad crank pos sensor. You may be on to something.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I sure hope so. I’d hate to recommend throwing parts at a problem and have it do nothing. The crank sensor is not all that easy to replace either so I have my fingers crossed for you.
LOL, I'm not going to blame you if it doesn't work! I am looking to get a OEM so I don't have to change it often. I'm looking on ebay right now, some SCAM OEM parts out of New Jersey on Ebay, $14 OEM CPS, no way this is legit. Geez, who can you trust to buy a OEM from? Dealer only? Geez.
Update: OEM Crank Pos Sensors are on 2 month backorder so I installed a new Cam Pos Sensor and trans no longer bucks when driving. Still stalls when stop and put in park, may try aftermarket crank sensor, also second guessing the idle control sensor I got off ebay, might be a counterfeit OEM.
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