How to hook up elecrical guages

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1966 dart wagon

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I would like to install some new guages in my cuda, that are under the dash, a electrical(not mechanical) oil, temp, and amp i already know how to hook up the am guage so no problem there, but how do i hook up the other 2. As of now my stock oil pressure guage doesnt work, i tried grounding it out(if that is the way to check it) and got nothing. i also did this with the stock temp guage, i got nothing.

How do hook these guages up, id like to run new wires, may reuse the old ones if they are good, where should i start besides getting the guages :silent:
 
The gauges should come with instuctions, so no worrys there.
Grab yourself new sending units if need be and run new wires to the unit alongside the old wires. Should you need to go through the fire wall, a small grommet should be used for the new hole to be drilled. However, I'm sure theres something there you can go through.

Convolting tube cleans up a compartment nicely and hides any extra wires.
Food for thought.

Lights for the gauges are tapped off a hot wire when the ignition is on (Car running) and cold when off (Car not running) Gounded anywhere to metal. Easy. Back off radio, sheet metal screw etc...
 
Most aftermarket gauges would be straight wired and will work off 12 volts, so the voltage limiter which is in the fuel gauge won`t be in the circuit. If you are running another oil pressure gauge I would suggest getting a mechanical version and the temperature gauge (if that`s what it is) should have instructions. Good luck!
 
I now cringe when i think of wiring since i redid my gauges abouta week ago (all electrical cept the speedo) lol

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Anyway. I'm sure most of this was mentioned and what not but heres my little run-down.

Wiring Temp/Oil Psi Gauges.

Power - Both will require a switched 12v wire to power them. Usually a radio power wire or something will do the job. Have a test light handy because you'll need to find one hot when the key is in 'Run'. You can tap into the radio wire, or pretty much anything else without doing harm, these gauges don't pull much power. Tap Splices would be the easy way to do it, should do the job, easily removed. More permanent and much stronger connection would be to solder of course. (which i soldered all my power, ground, sender connections. My lighting, turn signal, high beam, brake light, etc etc were all tap spliced for easy removal without harming the factory wiring.)

Ground - Both will require a gauge ground. To the dash frame is just fine. You can ground the light bulbs and gauges to one ground spot if you choose to do it that way.

Lighting - My gauges are setup to dim with the factory dash lights if i need to do so. That was done simply by tap-splicing into one of the wires up in the dash...which isn't very convient unless you pull the cluster out like i did. A quick n easy way to get lights when the headlights are on, and the dimming feature is to find the fuse for the lights in the fuse box. (test light will tell you that). You can take your second wire from the bulbs (not grounded) and strip the end a inch or so. Pop the fuse out, wrap the stripped end around the fuse and pop the fuse back into the box. Not the best method...but it does work, easily removable if needed and is a pretty solid connection once that fuse is popped into the box.

Senders - Both will use their own senders, stock stuff i believe is the same as autometers. (oil psi warning light sender will not work for a gauge). For the temp sender I just ran a new wire out to the sender, cut the stock tape out and wrapped up the factory sender wire back behind the motor outta sight. A good wire straight from the gauge to the sender is always better than trying to tap into the stock wire and such...but thats just my opinion, others may vary. I would say not to use any type of teflon tape on the senders because it can effect the grounding of them to the block (which is how they function is off the ground). I've yet to have a issue with leaks with senders without any type of thread sealant on them.

Anddd i think that about covers it. I'm no pro or anything, all that is just from my experience and how i wired my gauges. Not saying other methods are right or wrong, etc...It's just how i personally do it.
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
...Tap Splices would be the easy way to do it, should do the job, easily removed...

More permanent and much stronger connection would be to solder of course...
Click to expand...

In my experience, the tap splices tend to cut strands of the wire, causing problems down the road with arcing, corrosion, etc.

Take the time and do it 'right', strip, solder, etc., then heat shrink or good quality electrical tape. If you live somewhere where corrosion is common (coastal or damp areas), it helps to coat the wires with grease (regular chassis grease or vaseline work fine) before the heat shrink or tape.

My $0.02 worth...

Jay
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
I now cringe when i think of wiring since i redid my gauges abouta week ago (all electrical cept the speedo) lol

last2.gif


Anyway. I'm sure most of this was mentioned and what not but heres my little run-down.

Wiring Temp/Oil Psi Gauges.

Power - Both will require a switched 12v wire to power them. Usually a radio power wire or something will do the job. Have a test light handy because you'll need to find one hot when the key is in 'Run'. You can tap into the radio wire, or pretty much anything else without doing harm, these gauges don't pull much power. Tap Splices would be the easy way to do it, should do the job, easily removed. More permanent and much stronger connection would be to solder of course. (which i soldered all my power, ground, sender connections. My lighting, turn signal, high beam, brake light, etc etc were all tap spliced for easy removal without harming the factory wiring.)

Ground - Both will require a gauge ground. To the dash frame is just fine. You can ground the light bulbs and gauges to one ground spot if you choose to do it that way.

Lighting - My gauges are setup to dim with the factory dash lights if i need to do so. That was done simply by tap-splicing into one of the wires up in the dash...which isn't very convient unless you pull the cluster out like i did. A quick n easy way to get lights when the headlights are on, and the dimming feature is to find the fuse for the lights in the fuse box. (test light will tell you that). You can take your second wire from the bulbs (not grounded) and strip the end a inch or so. Pop the fuse out, wrap the stripped end around the fuse and pop the fuse back into the box. Not the best method...but it does work, easily removable if needed and is a pretty solid connection once that fuse is popped into the box.

Senders - Both will use their own senders, stock stuff i believe is the same as autometers. (oil psi warning light sender will not work for a gauge). For the temp sender I just ran a new wire out to the sender, cut the stock tape out and wrapped up the factory sender wire back behind the motor outta sight. A good wire straight from the gauge to the sender is always better than trying to tap into the stock wire and such...but thats just my opinion, others may vary. I would say not to use any type of teflon tape on the senders because it can effect the grounding of them to the block (which is how they function is off the ground). I've yet to have a issue with leaks with senders without any type of thread sealant on them.

Anddd i think that about covers it. I'm no pro or anything, all that is just from my experience and how i wired my gauges. Not saying other methods are right or wrong, etc...It's just how i personally do it.
Click to expand...

Looks real sweet & clean Mike :thumblef:
 
I also agree with the last 2 posts.
Look very nice.
And, when it comes to splices, I like the Detch connectors. You can get the at radio shack. They look like fold over squares where the "Tapped" wire runs through and the added wire goes half way in to a stop. A metal 3 pronged spade gets pushed into the wires and acts as the hold down and electric condutor. The plastic gets folded over to protect it.
 
wow mike I LOVE THOSE GUAGES they look awesome. I dont think i wanna go quite as far as you did, perhaps down the line, maybe make my own custom dash with the same guages :thumblef: i am thinking tomorrow i am going to pull the cluster...again :cwm10: and see if i am getting power threw the wire for the factory temp, and oil pressure guage. when doing this should i just ground out both units( i know i have to do this for my temp) i tried this but got nothing. and i will also check the whole wire routing, anything else i should look for. i dont like the idea of putting a mechanical guage for my oil, into my car(where the oil runs into the 'cab') i have one of these guages that came with the car, how do i hook it up, same with the temp guage, it was also under the dash along with the amp/oil (mechanical one)
 
1966 dart wagon said:
wow mike I LOVE THOSE GUAGES they look awesome.
Click to expand...

Thanks, they took forreeveerr to do. But I'm very happy with them :thumblef:
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1966 dart wagon said:
i am thinking tomorrow i am going to pull the cluster...again :cwm10: and see if i am getting power threw the wire for the factory temp, and oil pressure guage. when doing this should i just ground out both units( i know i have to do this for my temp) i tried this but got nothing. and i will also check the whole wire routing, anything else i should look for.
Click to expand...

Back on topic, Grounding the sender wires will make the gauge go full sweep if everything is working properly. If not, there is a issue somewhere in the wiring/gauge. Don't forget to check the bulkhead connector at the firewall, which is where the sender wires from under the dash connect to the engine harness which goes to the senders. Some corrosion/junk could be in there. Careful dealing with them, that is old wiring that you will be around and tugging on and such.

1966 dart wagon said:
i dont like the idea of putting a mechanical guage for my oil, into my car(where the oil runs into the 'cab') i have one of these guages that came with the car, how do i hook it up, same with the temp guage, it was also under the dash along with the amp/oil (mechanical one)
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Are you now asking how to hook up mechanical oil and temp gauges? Almost sounds like it, but you did say you dont like the idea of running a oil line inside the car... :salut:

-Mike
 
Are you now asking how to hook up mechanical oil and temp gauges? Almost sounds like it, but you did say you dont like the idea of running a oil line inside the car... :salut:

-Mike
Click to expand...
no i dont wanna run mechanical guages, to me it sounds dangerious and dirty(if the line broke for oil...oil would be all over). So basically i'm running a dash light power wire, a guage power wire, then the ground wire runs to the sending unit so that when it is up to pressure(on oil guage) it will ground out more making the guage go up/or down. Does that sound like how they are suppost to be hooked up. anyone got any sugestions for guages to use, i was thinking of just buying one of the under dash pieces with 3 guages in them, amp/temp/oil. and hooking those up. I found a set at my local parts store they looked really good but perhaps a little bit to small for me.i was looking in my jegs today and seeing all of the auto meter guages, i was thinking of your cuda(mike) the whole time :thumblef: looks so freakin awesome. o and nice sig by the way :)
 
1966 dart wagon said:
So basically i'm running a dash light power wire, a guage power wire, then the ground wire runs to the sending unit so that when it is up to pressure(on oil guage) it will ground out more making the guage go up/or down. Does that sound like how they are suppost to be hooked up.
Click to expand...
Dash Light Power wire is only hot when the lights are on which is wired to the white wire on the back of the light bulb housing on the gauge. The other wire at the light is grounded.

Gauge power wire is a switched 12v wire (only is hot with the key in the 'run' position)

Then there is a Gauge Ground wire. Directly off the back of the gauge, gets grounded.

Then there is the Gauge Sender wire, which is wired from the back of the gauge to the sender - temp or oil psi...

1966 dart wagon said:
anyone got any sugestions for guages to use, i was thinking of just buying one of the under dash pieces with 3 guages in them, amp/temp/oil. and hooking those up. I found a set at my local parts store they looked really good but perhaps a little bit to small for me.i was looking in my jegs today and seeing all of the auto meter guages, i was thinking of your cuda(mike) the whole time :thumblef: looks so freakin awesome. o and nice sig by the way :)
Click to expand...

I'm a fan of autometers, but ive never heard a bad thing about VDO or Stewart Warner (which are the big three gauge companies) i went with autometer because i like how they look really. The gauges i have are 2 5/8" inch which is what i prefer. The 2 1/16" are a little too small for my liking, not looking to strain trying to read the gauge. And most of the '3gauge pod' setups ive seen at a local parts store tend to be mechanical gauges.

Lastly, if you haven't done so. I highly recommend bypassing the stock AMP gauge. Read the link and thats why I bypassed mine. In doing that its recommended to run a volt gauge.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

-Mike
 
yeah i got my amp meter bypassed that was my first big thing, i couldnt figure out why i had no power at the dash.... :cwm10: very frustrating, anyways i got a guage hooked up now and i am getting power. i checked my wires for my oil and temp guage, they are all good i examined the firewall plug it looked alright, and i made sure the connection was good to the guage, i grounded out the guage again, still nothing. i guess it still could be the senders or the guage, but i would probably replace the guages anyways concidering they are not very accurate. I'm going to buy guages but my dad suggests do that down the road, i may be getting a lil ahead of myself i have to fix the fenders and grill before its road worthy anyways
 
I ran all VDO Visions on my Dart. I ran all new wires, as excessive resistance in old wires can cause false readings.

I agree, any kind of tap is bad mojo. Solder, tape, heat shrink :thumblef: Keep in mind there is also a second ground wire needed for JUST the lighting. Most aftermarket gauges require specific sending units.

I don't run a current gauge any more. I only run a volt gauge. To do it properly, you should run the voltage sense on an ignition switched relay, with the fed wire coming direct form the battery. This is best, since there is typically a 1-2 volt drop from the battery to the dash wiring in old cars. I just put mine on a switch, which also puts power to the other gauges.
 
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