How to prep roof for paint?

[dmopar74]

I'm removing whats left of the vinyl top and plan on painting this area black until I repaint the whole car, which is probably years down the road. There is some surface rust but not horrible at all. What steps and products should I use to achieve this? Rust converter, proper primer, single stage paint, 2k spray bomb? The cheaper the better but I want it to look somewhat decent.

 

[Roadart]

Look REAL close for light pitting where vinyl was.Epoxy primer,body filler all over if necessary. My 2cents.

 

[kdbunn]

After stripping the vinyl off, sand well with 120 grit, acid wash or metal prep(whatever you like to call it), prime with a good quality primer. Epoxy is not necessary if you want to save $$. High build is not necessary unless you have pitting, in which case you will need to block those out. Finish sand with 320 grit, then top coat with single stage. That will do you for quite some time.

 

[rbkt65]

thanks for the tip. i will be painting the top of my car black where the vinyl top was.

 

[dmopar74]

After stripping the vinyl off, sand well with 120 grit, acid wash or metal prep(whatever you like to call it), prime with a good quality primer. Epoxy is not necessary if you want to save $$. High build is not necessary unless you have pitting, in which case you will need to block those out. Finish sand with 320 grit, then top coat with single stage. That will do you for quite some time.

Thanks, that gives me the basics I need. I've been watching paint society videos on the utubes as well

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you want it to last prep and paint it the same as you would the rest of the car.

 

[Professor Fate]

Prep as you would the rest of the car- if it has pits, you'll need to neutralize, high build, and block it.
My two cents: Since you're still going to have the vinyl top trim and holes, use them as the guide for masking for primer/paint. Shoot the top with Harley Davidson black wrinkle paint to simulate the black vinyl top and reinstall the trim. Regular flat or glossy black always looks too hokey to me as a vinyl top replacement. The H-D paint has a much less aggressive wrinkle than the VHT stuff, so it actually looks kind of legit.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Prep as you would the rest of the car- if it has pits, you'll need to neutralize, high build, and block it.
My two cents: Since you're still going to have the vinyl top trim and holes, use them as the guide for masking for primer/paint. Shoot the top with Harley Davidson black wrinkle paint to simulate the black vinyl top and reinstall the trim. Regular flat or glossy black always looks too hokey to me as a vinyl top replacement. The H-D paint has a much less aggressive wrinkle than the VHT stuff, so it actually looks kind of legit.

Yeah if he does a good enough job on that, he might not wanna mess with vinyl. lol

 

[Bodyperson]

I'm removing whats left of the vinyl top and plan on painting this area black until I repaint the whole car, which is probably years down the road. There is some surface rust but not horrible at all. What steps and products should I use to achieve this? Rust converter, proper primer, single stage paint, 2k spray bomb? The cheaper the better but I want it to look somewhat decent.

View attachment 1716048256

I'm removing whats left of the vinyl top and plan on painting this area black until I repaint the whole car, which is probably years down the road. There is some surface rust but not horrible at all. What steps and products should I use to achieve this? Rust converter, proper primer, single stage paint, 2k spray bomb? The cheaper the better but I want it to look somewhat decent.

View attachment 1716048256

Evaporust will pull that rust right out of the pits. Clean well then a good direct to metal primer.

 

[dmopar74]

How should I fix these spots without removing the glass? Fiberglass body filler? Also the factory body filler at the rear of the old top is not actually touching the roof, you can see the gap in the photo. I'd like to do something there without getting into the good paint that the top didn't cover.

 

[MMissile]

IMO, you will have to remove the glass to fix the roof correctly. I'm sure there's rust in the glass channels.

 

[kdbunn]

^^^^^^^^^ Yep. You can't fix that properly without taking the glass out. It will creep back on you. Looks like you got some of the old sealer out with a wire wheel. You can metal prep that part, then re-seam seal with DTM or prime then seal. The old filler you will need to grind out and just fill over the joint.

 

[dmopar74]

Ok thanks, I can do that. I might just do all the body work and repaint the whole car if I'm removing the glass. Buy once,cry once.

 

[dmopar74]

I'm assuming I need to seam seal the drip rail as I'm going hard top and not putting the vynil top back on?

 

[kdbunn]

I'm assuming I need to seam seal the drip rail as I'm going hard top and not putting the vynil top back on?

View attachment 1716050706

Yes. I would acid wash, then prime and re-seam seal. I like using a two part seam sealer for drip rails as it is harder and won't shrink, but a good quality sealer like SEM makes will work.

 

[dmopar74]

Ok so...
Repair metal where needed
Acid wash/metal prep (what kind? So many options)
Epoxy primer over bare metal
Body filler and seam seal where needed
Primer over body filler
Paint

Can I paint over the factory paint if I prep it right? Sorry for all the questions, just want to do it right. I did a short stint in a body shop, but that was 25 years ago and I don't think what I was taught was correct.

 

[kdbunn]

Ok so...
Repair metal where needed
Acid wash/metal prep (what kind? So many options)
Epoxy primer over bare metal
Body filler and seam seal where needed
Primer over body filler
Paint

Can I paint over the factory paint if I prep it right? Sorry for all the questions, just want to do it right. I did a short stint in a body shop, but that was 25 years ago and I don't think what I was taught was correct.

Any kind of metal prep works. Most of the major paint companies have their own product. I use PPG's acid wash but POR 15 also has a metal conditioner that works well.
Epoxy primer is not absolutely necessary. Any quality 2 part primer will work. Epoxy is just a little more durable but once topcoated, most primers you can't tell the difference.
Yes you can absolutely paint over factory finish. If the original finish is in good shape, just sand with whatever you are finishing with-320 or 400 grit. Sealer over that, then your topcoat.

 

[jos51700]

Yes. I would acid wash, then prime and re-seam seal. I like using a two part seam sealer for drip rails as it is harder and won't shrink, but a good quality sealer like SEM makes will work.

What would be a good two part seam sealer?

 

[kdbunn]

What would be a good two part seam sealer?

3M makes a good seam sealer. I forget the part number but your automotive supply store should be able to steer you in the right direction. It flows well and dries hard with no shrinkage. It comes in a cartridge that requires a special squeeze gun to use which is quite expensive even you are only going to use it once. You can usually manually squeeze the components out and mix it on a mixing board and spoon it on.
Having said all that, there are alot of good quality single stage seam sealers that will work well. Stick to quality name brands (such as SEM) and stay away from rubber based sealers.

 

[jos51700]

3M makes a good seam sealer. I forget the part number but your automotive supply store should be able to steer you in the right direction. It flows well and dries hard with no shrinkage. It comes in a cartridge that requires a special squeeze gun to use which is quite expensive even you are only going to use it once. You can usually manually squeeze the components out and mix it on a mixing board and spoon it on.
Having said all that, there are alot of good quality single stage seam sealers that will work well. Stick to quality name brands (such as SEM) and stay away from rubber based sealers.

Thank you for this entire thread. Body work is really intimidating

 

[Car Nut]

I’m thinking of getting one of these when I prep my roof for paint.

Eastwood CONTOUR SCT® - Surface Conditioning Tool

 

[dmopar74]

I removed the trim, and it all looks good except where the roof is welded on there's some rust but overall pleased with what I found

 

[kdbunn]

I removed the trim, and it all looks good except where the roof is welded on there's some rust but overall pleased with what I found

View attachment 1716051163

View attachment 1716051166

View attachment 1716051164

Yes. Looking good.

 

[George Jets]

Here is what I use for auto body seam sealer, a bit spendy but so are new body panels.

Can apply in your drip edge seam about 2' at a time, wipe quick once with a wet finger. If you over work it it will ball up on you. Sets really fast so you have to work quick, let dry 24 hrs then paint.

Clean up with enamel reducer.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[mopowers]

Here is what I use for auto body seam sealer, a bit spendy but so are new body panels.

Can apply in your drip edge seam about 2' at a time, wipe quick once with a wet finger. If you over work it it will ball up on you. Sets really fast so you have to work quick, let dry 24 hrs then paint.

Clean up with enamel reducer.

View attachment 1716051236

☆☆☆☆☆

What do you wet your finger with to work the sealer?