How to repair broke bolts in aluminum

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Like I said it wasn't mine and time was on my side so it just sat on the bench and did it's thing while I was doing something else, like drinking beer!
 
famous bob said:
before I would go buy any acid, I`d do what trailbeast suggested, you`d have it out before u could get home w/ the acid, "IF" u could buy it !
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The reason I suggested that method is that I have done it so many times because someone else already started and drilled the damn pilot hole off center.
 
It's harder to fix things after someone else has made a mess out of it. I bought a tunnel ram that all the carb mounting holes were heli-coiled and I thought that was great till the first heli coil pulled out and I seen the hole was a mess and was to big for a heli coil, only had a few threads holding it.
 
As long as the acid was bubbling they said it's working but it bubble's for an hour or so than I would take a paper towel and suck it out and add a few more new drops to get it bubbling again. If I left it over night it did the most desolving so it still works even know it's not bubbling. The EZout was gone in less than 2 days just leaving it set and the bolt took longer because it was a low carbon bolt (grade 2) and I only changed the acid once a day.
 
jos51700 said:
you can drop a bead in it with a mig welder. as it cools, it'll fall out, and you can carefully drill the remainder bolt away.
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Interesting. Are you saying that the heat from the MIG tack(s) expands the tap, and upon cooling it will fall out?
 
harrisonm said:
Interesting. Are you saying that the heat from the MIG tack(s) expands the tap, and upon cooling it will fall out?
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Nope, I'm saying the head from the bead goes in at a certain temperature, and with contraction upon cooling, the offending ez out will shrink n' loosen. The hard part is not welding it to the bolt it's stuck in. The acid method above sounds awesome if in aluminum.

The weld bead method works EXTREMELY well for bearing races pressed in to housings. Lay a bead and wait a minute. They'll fall out.
 
I've done the Dremel thing. Dremel has a reeeeeally small carbide bit that you can reeeeeeally carefully plunge and cut towards the threads. Stop when close and the ez out is gone, and tap it. Sorta like miniature mill.
 
jos51700 said:
Nope, I'm saying the head from the bead goes in at a certain temperature, and with contraction upon cooling, the offending ez out will shrink n' loosen. The hard part is not welding it to the bolt it's stuck in. The acid method above sounds awesome if in aluminum.

The weld bead method works EXTREMELY well for bearing races pressed in to housings. Lay a bead and wait a minute. They'll fall out.
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Can't wait to try it.
 
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