How to test gauge cluster?

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Kikowillers

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Hi fellas,

I got my gauge cluster out to install some led lights. How can I test the lights and cluster without reinstalling the whole thing in the car?

Also, do LEDs have a specific positive/negative? Or can the go in the socket whichever way?

Cheers!
 
I don't know if this is the right way to do it but I used a 12volt AC to DC converter that I had from Radio Shack. I just followed the traces on the PCB and connected the wires to the bullet style connectors on the back that corresponded to the lights. I would not check the gauges that way (ie fuel and temp) because they run on 6 volt from the dash voltage regulator putting 12 volts to them will cook em (let the magic smoke out)..

I am using the Super bright LED's and they are OK but wouldn't call them super bright.. I think it is because I left the blue filters in the cluster and used blue LED's. I do not believe that it makes a difference which way they are installed as long as you have good contact you should be good.

Hope this helps out..
 
LEDs are diodes, therefore they only conduct in one direction. If you hook them up backwards, they won't be damaged, they simply won't light. It MAY be possible, but doubtful, that some LED replacement lamps have internal bridge rectifiers which will allow them to operate on either polarity, or even AC

If you want to check out the gauges (excellent time) you need to get a wiring diagram so you can figure out which terminals go where. What year/ model/ dash do you have?

Go down to Radio shack and buy some resistors to check the gauges. If you do nothing else, buy 4 - 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and put all 4 in parallel, for 25 ohms. When you substitute that resistance for the sender, the gauge should give you a 1/2 scale reading.

The test resistances are:

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

My 67 had several problems with the PC board, and you should go clear over it, or consider a repop board

On mine, several of the connector pins were loose/ corroded, and broken clear off.

The board was dirty and corroded, so clean them around the lamp sockets

The brass spring contacts where the gauge limiter plugs in were not making contact with the board. I had to solder jumpers across from them to the board

The VR itself was bad

The nuts on the gauges were not making contact with the board. Loosen/ tighten the nuts, or replace with "real" nuts

Consider replacing the VR with a good aftermarket solid state one.
 
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