hughes performance transmission trouble

[chrisperanio]

Ok, here it is. I have a 72 cuda with a 498 bb and a hughes tf727 trans, put the car together about 2 years ago when i ordered the trans and installed it i immediately had problems, started to tear things apart and i had fluid pressure problems......called hughes, argued for a few hours and they finally decided to warranty the trans just as long as i paid shipping fees. Got the a call from hughes and they said nothing was wrong with trans, were sending it back. Re-installed and it seems to work fine so i thought.....so much for nothing is wrong, well at least the car moves now, but here is the new issue: when the car has been sitting for a while and i fire it up put it in gear in any direction it barely want's to move i have to get the rpm's up quite a bit for it to get going after moving around a little bit everything seems to be normal shift well and so on, but once it's cold I'm back to burning a gallon of fuel to get her going again. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. And if you need more info let me know. Oh and hughes built the trans and converter to the cars entire specifications.

72 plymouth cuda
498 engine
727tf 5000 hughes nitro stall manual valve body reverse shift pattern
4.56 gears
3400 pounds with me in it

 

[70aarcuda]

Torqueflite tranny has this thing call converter drainback....once you park your car the converter starts to drainsback into the pan...probably takes a day or so to completely drain....so you start your car up...no fluid in converter...car will not move until converter fills...

you start your car in park....fluid does not circulate in park....so conveter does not fill until you move shifter into drive...and car does not move until converter fills with fluid....

solution.....start car...put gear selector in neutral...fluid circulates in neutral....let engine run for a minute...put trans in drive and drive happily into the sunset

 

[jimjimjimmy]

Torqueflite tranny has this thing call converter drainback....once you park your car the converter starts to drainsback into the pan...probably takes a day or so to completely drain....so you start your car up...no fluid in converter...car will not move until converter fills...

you start your car in park....fluid does not circulate in park....so conveter does not fill until you move shifter into drive...and car does not move until converter fills with fluid....

solution.....start car...put gear selector in neutral...fluid circulates in neutral....let engine run for a minute...put trans in drive and drive happily into the sunset

x2

 

[fishy68]

Torqueflite tranny has this thing call converter drainback....once you park your car the converter starts to drainsback into the pan...probably takes a day or so to completely drain....so you start your car up...no fluid in converter...car will not move until converter fills...

you start your car in park....fluid does not circulate in park....so conveter does not fill until you move shifter into drive...and car does not move until converter fills with fluid....

solution.....start car...put gear selector in neutral...fluid circulates in neutral....let engine run for a minute...put trans in drive and drive happily into the sunset

Agreed. I always start mine in neutral. Takes about 20 seconds or so for the converter to fill up. Takes longer than that for the engine to warm up to want to go on it's own, LOL

 

[transman]

Ok, here it is. I have a 72 cuda with a 498 bb and a hughes tf727 trans, put the car together about 2 years ago when i ordered the trans and installed it i immediately had problems, started to tear things apart and i had fluid pressure problems......called hughes, argued for a few hours and they finally decided to warranty the trans just as long as i paid shipping fees. Got the a call from hughes and they said nothing was wrong with trans, were sending it back. Re-installed and it seems to work fine so i thought.....so much for nothing is wrong, well at least the car moves now, but here is the new issue: when the car has been sitting for a while and i fire it up put it in gear in any direction it barely want's to move i have to get the rpm's up quite a bit for it to get going after moving around a little bit everything seems to be normal shift well and so on, but once it's cold I'm back to burning a gallon of fuel to get her going again. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. And if you need more info let me know. Oh and hughes built the trans and converter to the cars entire specifications.

72 plymouth cuda
498 engine
727tf 5000 hughes nitro stall manual valve body reverse shift pattern
4.56 gears
3400 pounds with me in it

Is that a 5000 rpm stall converter you've got? If so, this could be the reason for needing to get the rpm up so the car will move better, and that high of a stall won't help with gas mileage.

 

[chrisperanio]

Agreed. I always start mine in neutral. Takes about 20 seconds or so for the converter to fill up. Takes longer than that for the engine to warm up to want to go on it's own, LOL

Thx fellas for the info, I'll give that a try.

 

[TrailBeast]

Just so you know, hardened rubber seals will cause that also.
With hard rubber in the trans it takes awhile for the heat from the engine to warm up the rubber and let it flex enough to seal.

If it takes less than 30 seconds in neutral to be able to move fine.
If it takes 5 min, then it's the rubber seals.

I see all the time on here where people mention the converter drainback issue, but no one ever mentions that old hardened rubber does almost the exact same thing.
(warmup time before it'll move is the tell tale sign, as the converter will fill in a few seconds) but seals have to get warm from the engine coolant and that takes awhile on a cold startup.

Don't bother telling us it only has however many miles on it, because it doesn't matter.
The age of the rubber, and the clearances in the pump and bushings are what matter.
Not miles.

 

[ph23vo]

with a 5k stall the car won't try to move until you hit 2k or so anyway...

 

[fishy68]

Is that a 5000 rpm stall converter you've got? If so, this could be the reason for needing to get the rpm up so the car will move better, and that high of a stall won't help with gas mileage.

with a 5k stall the car won't try to move until you hit 2k or so anyway...

Good point guys. I overlooked the loose converter

 

[chrisperanio]

Is that a 5000 rpm stall converter you've got? If so, this could be the reason for needing to get the rpm up so the car will move better, and that high of a stall won't help with gas mileage.

Yeah it's a 5000 stall but when I first start it up and shift into gear it Def don't act right I have had many mopars and none have done this...but after moving it around a bit it's acts fine

 

[chrisperanio]

Just so you know, hardened rubber seals will cause that also.
With hard rubber in the trans it takes awhile for the heat from the engine to warm up the rubber and let it flex enough to seal.

If it takes less than 30 seconds in neutral to be able to move fine.
If it takes 5 min, then it's the rubber seals.

I see all the time on here where people mention the converter drainback issue, but no one ever mentions that old hardened rubber does almost the exact same thing.
(warmup time before it'll move is the tell tale sign, as the converter will fill in a few seconds) but seals have to get warm from the engine coolant and that takes awhile on a cold startup.

Don't bother telling us it only has however many miles on it, because it doesn't matter.
The age of the rubber, and the clearances in the pump and bushings are what matter.
Not miles.

It's a brand new transmission and stall custom made for my cars specs

 

[chrisperanio]

with a 5k stall the car won't try to move until you hit 2k or so anyway...

I know this but when I try to move on a cold start I'm up around 4000 rpm just to get it to start to move

 

[TrailBeast]

It's a brand new transmission and stall custom made for my cars specs

Ok, then there's nothing wrong then, right?
There couldn't be because it's brand new rebuilt.

We'll go with that then and I won't spend any more time on it.

 

[Hipo65]

sonnax & trans-go both make anit drain back manul valves for the valve bodys that help. i prefer the sonnax its drop in & done. 5k stall wont help @ all eather man. (no grinding on the alum body)

 

[chrisperanio]

sonnax & trans-go both make anit drain back manul valves for the valve bodys that help. i prefer the sonnax its drop in & done. 5k stall wont help @ all eather man. (no grinding on the alum body)

Thx for the help have 1 ordered