Hughes rockers

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twayne24365

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got the hold downs milled to center the rockers, checked the sweep pattern, looks pretty sweet!
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Wow, how much lift are you running? There's enough sweep there for over .900" or more. Probably more.
 
That's about .850 lift, just had a test spring on one valve and got the rockers set up, just pushed the rocker with my hand till it touched the seal a few times,
Cam is .670 so when I get pushrods mocked up I will report back with sweep pattern with actual lift
 
Should work just fine once you get the correct pushrods in there and set the lash. Do you have a dial indicator that you can put on the retainer so you can measure actual lift at the valve? It is always good to double check the real rocker arm ratio since sometimes they aren't what they are supposed to be. I tested a bunch of Mopar rocker arms for Hot Rod. The article is on the website if you are interested: Trying to Find Extra Power Through Rocker-Arm Testing - Hot Rod Network

I also have a solid valley cover and side shield combo that will work with those heads if the stock bathtub gasket doesn't work. Usually the bathtub gasket isn't large enough to work with fully ported heads. If you are interested just let me know. The parts are listed on my website in the valley plate section if you want to take a look.
 
Thanks Andy, and yea I have an indicator setup, just machines the timing gear for a thrust washer, I'll get the adjustable pushrods in there where it needs to be then check it good!

And I will definitely check out the batwing setup!
With your plate can I remove it without pulling a head?
 
Yes with standard type heads you can remove the valley plate without removing the heads. It is only the extended runner heads such as the Indy heads that trap the valley cover. The batwings seal up the valley area and provide you with the flexibility to get perfect gasket matching around all of the ports.

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That's about .850 lift, just had a test spring on one valve and got the rockers set up, just pushed the rocker with my hand till it touched the seal a few times,
Cam is .670 so when I get pushrods mocked up I will report back with sweep pattern with actual lift
Fwiw, the pattern probably won't get any narrower at .670", and if it does, it won't be centered anymore. I know you're proud of getting that sweep centered, but what you have is not good geometry. Hopefully, it doesn't give you problems, because no one is going to pay for fixing it besides you.
 
Thanks for your input B3RE, well see what it does at actual lift and with everything bolted up then go from there, I did try a shin under the shaft to see what it did and the sweep was the same width just further out on the valve
 
I have the 1.6 hughes rockers with a .383 lift cam. Did my adjustable push rod and ended up with .618 lift at the retainer. Following to see how your turns out

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Been busy with some other stuff lately but everything is ready now, just waiting for a good day with no rain or work to get the motor in, I’m off this weekend so hopefully the weather cooperates!
 
I have hughs 1/6 rockers on my 505, the sweep is about maybe a little less than 1/2 of the orig. posters, dead center, w/ a .628 lift . I didn`t have to do any machine work to get them there, no shims or anything .
The poster said he pushed the valve open clear to the valve seal, that would make his sweep look worse than at max lift.
 
Probably not. 99% chance not.

What's your take on the Hughes rockers? Your relocation shims needed? I'm running a .564" lift cam w/ Stealth heads, 1.5's but I'm waiting on other parts before I get into valvetrain geometry.
 
I’m sure there is a slight edge in power/durability getting the geometry absolutely perfect. But I’m not going for prostock performance, the 383 in my Dart has been in 2 cars and tortured since 2011 with the same heads a ductile rockers... the sweep pattern on those guys about covers the entire valve head and it’s a mopar 557 solid cam. I spin it to 6800 every time I drive it and it shows no signs of any problems.
 
I’m sure there is a slight edge in power/durability getting the geometry absolutely perfect. But I’m not going for prostock performance, the 383 in my Dart has been in 2 cars and tortured since 2011 with the same heads a ductile rockers... the sweep pattern on those guys about covers the entire valve head and it’s a mopar 557 solid cam. I spin it to 6800 every time I drive it and it shows no signs of any problems.

That doesn't make the geometry correct. Maybe if you fixed the geometry you could make power to 7200-7300 without more valve spring.

I have been fighting this fight for so long I no longer care unless someone acts like they want to learn. Your geometry is wrong. Fixing it is the correct thing to do. Just because you get away with something doesn't make it correct.

It used to be a PITA to correct the geometry. Now it's easy and quick. Why not fix it?
 
What's your take on the Hughes rockers? Your relocation shims needed? I'm running a .564" lift cam w/ Stealth heads, 1.5's but I'm waiting on other parts before I get into valvetrain geometry.
If I'm going for the best geometry, I go with my custom T&Ds. If I'm working with Hughes, I like to convert them to a cup adjuster, and then relocate the shafts with SPACERS, not shims. Shims break things.

No matter what the marketing hype says, you can't just bolt them on, because it's not the rocker that requires the shafts be relocated, it's the head. And, I have yet to see a head that has the shaft placement correct. That's an impossibility for the manufacturer, because no one position is correct for every application. You have to put it where it needs to be.
 
I’m sure there is a slight edge in power/durability getting the geometry absolutely perfect. But I’m not going for prostock performance, the 383 in my Dart has been in 2 cars and tortured since 2011 with the same heads a ductile rockers... the sweep pattern on those guys about covers the entire valve head and it’s a mopar 557 solid cam. I spin it to 6800 every time I drive it and it shows no signs of any problems.
Maybe you'll get lucky, maybe you won't. Maybe the next guy will or won't either. It's a decision each individual has to be comfortable with.

I'm currently relocating studs on a Chevy, because the geometry isn't right on those either. Yet a lot of guys bolt the heads on with a lousy centered pattern that is way wider than it should be. I don't let that go out the door.
This is with .500" lift. It isn't perfectly centered, but I moved the stud as far as physically possible with the available inserts. It needed .100", I got .080". Btw, this is for my brother-in-law, so I'm not making any money from it, and I still wouldn't let it go out the door with poor geometry.
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Maybe you'll get lucky, maybe you won't. Maybe the next guy will or won't either. It's a decision each individual has to be comfortable with.

I'm currently relocating studs on a Chevy, because the geometry isn't right on those either. Yet a lot of guys bolt the heads on with a lousy centered pattern that is way wider than it should be. I don't let that go out the door.
This is with .500" lift. It isn't perfectly centered, but I moved the stud as far as physically possible with the available inserts. It needed .100", I got .080". Btw, this is for my brother-in-law, so I'm not making any money from it, and I still wouldn't let it go out the door with poor geometry.View attachment 1715184409 View attachment 1715184410



You let your sister marry a Chevy guy? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

He is either a good dude or you don't like your sister!!!!!!
 
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