Hylift Johnson Lifters Quality Decreasing?

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Torqueflite

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With all the lifter problems in the last decade, Hylift Johnson lifters (not Johnson Lifters with imported castings) had remained a quality manufacturer cast and machined in the USA. Those days of quality might be over or at least numbered from my experience this past month.

In June 2023 I purchased a set of 16 Hylift Johnson performance variable duration lifters from Hughes Engines part number 5003. The lifters came in a small unmarked brown cardboard box with a grid of cardboard separating the lifters. Hughes placed that box in a larger box with packaging, so the lifters were well protected during shipping. Upon inspection, I found 13 of the 16 lifters have deep nicks/gouges in the face that my fingernail easily catches on, and some of these nicks/gouges have noticeable raised edges, particularly those with damage on the edge of the face. I've never received new lifters that were beat up like these from any manufacturer, even OEM Melling/Federal.

I emailed Hughes with photos reporting the damage but didn't hear back after a few days, so I called and left a message and haven't heard back for a few days. Considering the Independence Day holiday, I imagine people have been out of the office. I have no issue with Hughes so far and expect them to help me once they get to my message/email. I was suspicious that the lifters I received may be knock-offs unknown to Hughes, so I emailed the address on Hylift Johnson's website with photos asking if Hughes still sells their lifters and for feedback on the damage. I received a response from a manager at Kiwi Cylinder Heads in New Zealand who was surprised to know they are still the contact email and phone number on Hylift's website since they haven't been their distributor in many years. He told me he’s never seen Hylift Johnson lifters that were nicked like in the photos, and he pointed me to Topline Auto who he said manufacturers Hylift Johnson lifters. I found their website, called, and spoke with a sales tech who confirmed Hughes is a retailer. He asked me to email him photos, which I did. The response I received from him that I quote verbatim was, "Please see the response from my engineer below regarding the nicks. He would be more worried about raised material or burrs that would raise the cam face surface than the nicks that can happen in handling, packaging, and shipping." The engineer's response included in the email was, "Yes, the A-2011 OEM allows indentations as long as there is no raised material. That is why we finish the cam face last to grind any raised material. They are still to OEM specifications."

I didn't expect that response since the lifters aren't OEM-spec lifters, they certainly don't look like the faces were completely finished to remove the nicks, and they are marketed by Hylift as performance lifters “held to a higher quality surface finish.” The response doesn't instill any confidence in me that the tolerances and inside quality are any better than the face quality. Once I get in touch with Hughes, I plan on returning the lifters. The difficulty will be finding another lifter, but I've read that Hylift Johnson supplies the lifter body to Rhoads where Rhoads does the finish work. I called Rhoads last week who, as I expected, wouldn’t say who supplies the body but said that they are USA made and that the face finish they perform will have “absolutely no nicks.” Unless anyone has other recommendations for a lifter with a c-clip or pressed retainer, I'm looking at buying a set of Rhoads V-Pro 2018P. I found a lifter from Crower 66031J that they call a “Hydraulic Johnson” lifter, so I plan on calling Crower to confirm if it is supplied by Hylift Johnson or the imported Johnson Lifters. To clarify, the circled damage in the photos is only for nicks my fingernail caught and are not superficial scratches.

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Sorry to hear about your issues. FWIW I ordered the same lifters from Hughes last year and they came inside a box with a clear plastic snap type case with ID stickers on it. Perhaps yours were broken open in transit and repackaged?
 
Here's a picture of how mine were packaged from Hughes. Photo was originally posted by

Drackvan340​


Thanks for the input and photo, which is much different than the ones I received. Knowing what yours looked like, I'll see if Hughes has a pack they can exchange.
 
With all the lifter problems in the last decade, Hylift Johnson lifters (not Johnson Lifters with imported castings) had remained a quality manufacturer cast and machined in the USA. Those days of quality might be over or at least numbered from my experience this past month.

In June 2023 I purchased a set of 16 Hylift Johnson performance variable duration lifters from Hughes Engines part number 5003. The lifters came in a small unmarked brown cardboard box with a grid of cardboard separating the lifters. Hughes placed that box in a larger box with packaging, so the lifters were well protected during shipping. Upon inspection, I found 13 of the 16 lifters have deep nicks/gouges in the face that my fingernail easily catches on, and some of these nicks/gouges have noticeable raised edges, particularly those with damage on the edge of the face. I've never received new lifters that were beat up like these from any manufacturer, even OEM Melling/Federal.

I emailed Hughes with photos reporting the damage but didn't hear back after a few days, so I called and left a message and haven't heard back for a few days. Considering the Independence Day holiday, I imagine people have been out of the office. I have no issue with Hughes so far and expect them to help me once they get to my message/email. I was suspicious that the lifters I received may be knock-offs unknown to Hughes, so I emailed the address on Hylift Johnson's website with photos asking if Hughes still sells their lifters and for feedback on the damage. I received a response from a manager at Kiwi Cylinder Heads in New Zealand who was surprised to know they are still the contact email and phone number on Hylift's website since they haven't been their distributor in many years. He told me he’s never seen Hylift Johnson lifters that were nicked like in the photos, and he pointed me to Topline Auto who he said manufacturers Hylift Johnson lifters. I found their website, called, and spoke with a sales tech who confirmed Hughes is a retailer. He asked me to email him photos, which I did. The response I received from him that I quote verbatim was, "Please see the response from my engineer below regarding the nicks. He would be more worried about raised material or burrs that would raise the cam face surface than the nicks that can happen in handling, packaging, and shipping." The engineer's response included in the email was, "Yes, the A-2011 OEM allows indentations as long as there is no raised material. That is why we finish the cam face last to grind any raised material. They are still to OEM specifications."

I didn't expect that response since the lifters aren't OEM-spec lifters, they certainly don't look like the faces were completely finished to remove the nicks, and they are marketed by Hylift as performance lifters “held to a higher quality surface finish.” The response doesn't instill any confidence in me that the tolerances and inside quality are any better than the face quality. Once I get in touch with Hughes, I plan on returning the lifters. The difficulty will be finding another lifter, but I've read that Hylift Johnson supplies the lifter body to Rhoads where Rhoads does the finish work. I called Rhoads last week who, as I expected, wouldn’t say who supplies the body but said that they are USA made and that the face finish they perform will have “absolutely no nicks.” Unless anyone has other recommendations for a lifter with a c-clip or pressed retainer, I'm looking at buying a set of Rhoads V-Pro 2018P. I found a lifter from Crower 66031J that they call a “Hydraulic Johnson” lifter, so I plan on calling Crower to confirm if it is supplied by Hylift Johnson or the imported Johnson Lifters. To clarify, the circled damage in the photos is only for nicks my fingernail caught and are not superficial scratches.

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Subscribe to my channel I'm putting a video up that talks about this it's not the first time and this is not the only brand and it's been going on for a very long time even Mopar
 
According to Cam King [ Mike Jones ], owner of the SpeedTalk forum, there is only one company making FT lifters in the US.....& they are very expensive [ how much did you pay ?].

I would not use the above lifters for a number of reasons. No lifter should have marks in the face that contacts the lobe. Some lifters have more chamfer than others. If these defects are an example of the 'quality control' that are easy to see, how good is the rest of the QC that is NOT easy to see: radius, lifter hardness, internal clearances etc.

Get some 25+ yr old lifters & get them re-faced for trouble free operation.
 
Hughes has a no flat cam guarantee when you buy their cam, lifters and springs. Show them, see what they say. mind You the guarantee doesn cover down time, gaskets, fluids, and labour…

my last set of 5003‘s from them had a few marks/flaws in the body of the lifter. I ran them.
 
quality control in manufacture and idioitic dumping them loose in a box and clanking them all around before packageing them up are two different things..

all it takes is one idiot on friday afternoon shift and this is what happens

they have sat loose in a box and been rattled about or had other lifters thrown in on top.

somone in the supply chain fell at the first hurdle, there is even a bit in most manuals saying to not let lifters rattle about together in a box or tray.

given that you can get lifters with an oil hole in the face bigger than any of those dings!!!! i think these will be polished smooth within 20 minutes

id be worried about the sides not the face. In my mind a lack of rotation kills lifters and cams, hitting the same contact point repeatedly eats both up, a nice rotation gives time for the zddp to coat and protect before that exact spot is hit again..recovery time :) .

some would say i'm still an idiot but i was a bigger one in my youth
lifters had rust checmically removed and were used in the kind of "slap it togther and hope" build you do when you are 25 and skint.... no issues... looked great when i took them out better than when they went in...

but i'll agree my singular success is no idication of the right or wrong thing to do...i had nothing much invested, but time, if you do, for piece of mind, send em back... your cash your motor

Dave
 
Companies I have had bad experiences with? Only three. " Legendary" "Indy" and "Hughes" All were *** holes to deal with when receiving junk from them. Go try and have a conversation with any of them at Carlisle with any question about a product of theirs without money in your hand. When ever you are buying their product purchase it from a 3rd party that has a return policy.
 
According to Cam King [ Mike Jones ], owner of the SpeedTalk forum, there is only one company making FT lifters in the US.....& they are very expensive [ how much did you pay ?].

I would not use the above lifters for a number of reasons. No lifter should have marks in the face that contacts the lobe. Some lifters have more chamfer than others. If these defects are an example of the 'quality control' that are easy to see, how good is the rest of the QC that is NOT easy to see: radius, lifter hardness, internal clearances etc.

Get some 25+ yr old lifters & get them re-faced for trouble free operation.

Those lifters are ground using CBN or similar. That’s exactly what they SHOULD look like.

There is nothing wrong with them. The OP is making a mountain out of a spec.

BTW, go out and put 5K miles on them and pull them out. Look at them under a magnifying glass or microscope. You will still see those lines.
 
According to Cam King [ Mike Jones ], owner of the SpeedTalk forum, there is only one company making FT lifters in the US.....& they are very expensive [ how much did you pay ?].

I would not use the above lifters for a number of reasons. No lifter should have marks in the face that contacts the lobe. Some lifters have more chamfer than others. If these defects are an example of the 'quality control' that are easy to see, how good is the rest of the QC that is NOT easy to see: radius, lifter hardness, internal clearances etc.

Get some 25+ yr old lifters & get them re-faced for trouble free operation.
Coincidentally, I got my camshaft from Mike Jones in 2021, but he was out of stock on these particular Hylift Johnson lifters when I last checked. According to him in our conversation, Hylift Johnson of Muskegon, MI is the only manufacturer casting, machining, and assembling lifters in the US as of 2022. I might send him the photos to find out if he's been seeing the quality decrease lately.

As to your observations about the lifters I received, we're of the same mind. If the outside of the lifters leave the factory or retailer looking this beat up and both the engineer and sales tech are fine with the condition, there's no reason for me to believe the casting/alloy, machining tolerances, inner components, assembly, and testing practices aren't just as shoddy. I'm not going to gamble with them just to save me the hassle of returning them and placing an order with one of their competitors who produce a higher quality lifter free of damage.
 
Well I hope you do not have a failure. Another problem that could occur with those lifters is if the cam you are using uses 'all' of the lobe velocity of the 0.904" lifter. Some of the chamfers look horrendous. Because if the chamfer is, say, 0.030", then it is no longer a 904 lifter, it becomes a 0.844" lifter. The edge of the lifter will dig into the lobe very quickly. When I get lifters re-faced, I specify 'no chamfer'. Crower cams make 'no chamfer' lifters for high rate cams, eg #66971-16.
It is foolish to use lifters where the defects can be seen with the naked eye....& not knowing where the un-seen defects are. Better to get an old factory set re-faced.
 
Back in the 2000s when cams were being wiped left right and centre this is the story i heard,
i have no idea if its true. I probably read it here.

Hylift and another company called Stanadyne in the US used to make all of the flat tappet lifters for everyone aftermarket and had big oem contracts as well.
both companies shut up shop on flat tappets when everything went roller lifter and/or overhead cam during the 90s early 2000s the companies concentreated on their big contracts and made new products for the new demands of car makers or in the case of hylift potentially just stopped

then followed the "i wiped my cam" scenario for those rebuilding ancient engines, as lifters from other sources with less good metallergy were "finished" in the US and sold as US made lifters, and all this coincided with some changes to oil specs that propably wouldn't have been noticed if the lifters used had been up to scratch.

the metallurgy and processing of the lifters was the IP of the companies involved, so just setting up shop to make a copy with the exact same properties was not easy. good enough for a standard rebuild was thought to be, good enough

stanadyne became part of a big corporate and stayed with the roller lifters and modern hydraulics
and hylift saw a big enough market in the aftermarket to start again with the flat tappets under new ownership.

hylift have kinda cornerd the market but they know their market, owe their existance to the market they supply, i'd suggest QC is pretty high on their agenda

could be BS i read it on the internet

Dave
 
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Well I hope you do not have a failure. Another problem that could occur with those lifters is if the cam you are using uses 'all' of the lobe velocity of the 0.904" lifter. Some of the chamfers look horrendous. Because if the chamfer is, say, 0.030", then it is no longer a 904 lifter, it becomes a 0.844" lifter. The edge of the lifter will dig into the lobe very quickly. When I get lifters re-faced, I specify 'no chamfer'. Crower cams make 'no chamfer' lifters for high rate cams, eg #66971-16.
It is foolish to use lifters where the defects can be seen with the naked eye....& not knowing where the un-seen defects are. Better to get an old factory set re-faced.

Where did the OP give his cam specs?? I looked twice and I don’t see them. Of course, I could just be missing it.
 
The verdict is in: Topline Auto's "Hylift Johnson" hydraulic flat tappet lifters #5003 have shoddy finish and quality control compared to its competitors, and Hughes Engines has nonexistent customer service.

I received a set of Lunati "Micro-Trol" 71977 lifters, and all 16 have immaculate convex faces without a gouge/nick in sight. I spoke with Lunati's lead tech before ordering, and he confirmed Topline supplies Lunati with USA cast bodies rough machined, and Lunati finishes the lifters and packs them with their internals. The photos below show the Lunati on the left and the Topline "Johnson Hylift" 5003 from Hughes on the right, which is a good representation of 13 of the 16 damaged lifters I received. The Hylift lifter is almost 3/64" taller than the Lunati (see photo), suggesting that Topline had plenty of meat to machine out all the gouges in the face like Lunati did but chose not to. The irony is that the Lunati lifters were $120 cheaper than the Hylift Johnson set.

As for Hughes, over the last five weeks I called and left two voice messages and two emails with no response. All I was asking was to return the lifters for a replacement set that isn't damaged or for a full refund if all the Hylift lifters they have are damaged. This week, I submitted a claim with my credit card company who processed a full refund (parts/tax/shipping) and informed Hughes about the dispute and that Visa placed a hold on Hughes' future Visa purchases to recoup the money Visa refunded me. Hughes has seven more days to appeal the claim before it is closed out in my favor.

The spoke to Rhoads, Crower, and Howards who all told me Topline supplies them with USA cast lifter bodies. All three brands also confirmation that their face finish is free of any gouges/nicks/etc. I couldn't get a straight answer from Comp Cams regarding the source of their lifter bodies even though Comp is associated with Lunati.

For those wanting to purchase hydraulic or mechanical flat tappet lifters, I recommend steering clear of lifters advertised as "Hylift Johnson" and instead going with Lunati, Rhoads, Crower, or Howards since they use the same Topline body but with a superior finish. I'd also steer clear of Hughes since they couldn't be bothered to address my requests.

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The CHEAP ($4.99 ea.) Melling lifters I got from Summit for my 400 Ford look every bit as good as those Top Lines. I was impressed and they're still goin strong.
 
The CHEAP ($4.99 ea.) Melling lifters I got from Summit for my 400 Ford look every bit as good as those Top Lines. I was impressed and they're still goin strong.

I think I read a response of yours in another thread about having success with the Melling hydraulic lifters, and I was very tempted to go with the Melling JB2011 at $5/ea. Then I came across a set of Lunati Micro-Trol for $6.25/ea and was sold after confirming they are Topline USA cast bodies and after reading positive reviews in other threads. I left a message with Melling's tech lead for information on where they source their bodies, but I haven't heard back. The recent photos of the Melling JB2011 body look identical to the Lunati/Rhoads/Crower/Howards bodies made by Topline. I'd be curious to compare the Melling body and internals to the Lunati, and I might order one Melling lifter from a local parts house (I know Autozone carries them) just to compare the lifter bodies and internals as I disassemble and clean the Lunati before installation. Either way, the Lunati and Melling look to be of superior finish than the Hylift Johnson line and cost drastically less.
 
I think I read a response of yours in another thread about having success with the Melling hydraulic lifters, and I was very tempted to go with the Melling JB2011 at $5/ea. Then I came across a set of Lunati Micro-Trol for $6.25/ea and was sold after confirming they are Topline USA cast bodies and after reading positive reviews in other threads. I left a message with Melling's tech lead for information on where they source their bodies, but I haven't heard back. The recent photos of the Melling JB2011 body look identical to the Lunati/Rhoads/Crower/Howards bodies made by Topline. I'd be curious to compare the Melling body and internals to the Lunati, and I might order one Melling lifter from a local parts house (I know Autozone carries them) just to compare the lifter bodies and internals as I disassemble and clean the Lunati before installation. Either way, the Lunati and Melling look to be of superior finish than the Hylift Johnson line and cost drastically less.
I was pretty apprehensive to say the least, especially after a high dollar set of Crower Cam Savers did not work out. They broke in fine. They would not stop ticking when hot. Now, cold, hot or anywhere in between and she's quiet as a mouse.
 
The verdict is in: Topline Auto's "Hylift Johnson" hydraulic flat tappet lifters #5003 have shoddy finish and quality control compared to its competitors, and Hughes Engines has nonexistent customer service.



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The 5003's I received from Hughes were near perfect. I was impressed at the quality of mine.

I'm not sure what has gone wrong with your order and why Hughes is not responding. Maybe internal company issues over there? You shouldn't have needed to go through all that crap. I hope you get answers.
 
Uhhh, if the cheap $4.99 Melling lifters are so good, wouldn't y'all think Lunati, Hughes,
et al would be buying them from the same source..........................
I am not disputing some may have been lucky with Mellings....but it is a crap shoot.

It is not just the radius on the lifter that affects if it will survive, it is also the hardness....which you cannot see.
 
Uhhh, if the cheap $4.99 Melling lifters are so good, wouldn't y'all think Lunati, Hughes,
et al would be buying them from the same source..........................
I am not disputing some may have been lucky with Mellings....but it is a crap shoot.

It is not just the radius on the lifter that affects if it will survive, it is also the hardness....which you cannot see.
Point to where I said "they're so good". I did not. I told the story of what I did, because I was not going to spend 200 bucks on supposedly high end lifters, so I rolled the dice. It is indeed a crap shoot for sure. It shouldn't be.

My son is in Australia now. He watched water go down the drain the other day and said it indeed does swirl clockwise, opposite from up here. So that tells the toilets do, too. You ever check yours? lol
 
Our toilets don't swirl! They are a far better system than you have overseas, but yes our sinks do swirl the opposite to the northern hemisphere!
 
I used Crower Cam Saver hydraulic lifters in my 340, and the quality and install was fine, as well as break in and the current performance, all on the old Purple cam that was in the engine when I got the car. The difference in oil pressure using cam savers is like 5 psi, which I had 50 to 60 psi before I yanked out lifers that were missing clips, now 45 to 55 psi with Crowers. I checked for a crown on the lifter face, lubed them up and dropped them in the bores, and then checked that they rotated and moved up and down in the bores smoothly before declaring them fine.

Also, every couple months there’s a new thread about bad lifters or what lifters to buy. The answer is buy wooden dowel rod the correct diameter and cut it to length to fit the lifter bores, it will probably be just as likely to work better than some of the shoddy new lifters available. Otherwise, buy your favorite gamble and be ready to run em.
 
I used Crower Cam Saver hydraulic lifters in my 340, and the quality and install was fine, as well as break in and the current performance, all on the old Purple cam that was in the engine when I got the car.
Same situation for me, my 340 had a clip come loose on the original lifters. The engine had been rebuilt by the pervious owner with a purple shaft cam. When the lifter (clip) came apart my mechanic ordered the 5003's from Hughes on advice from his engine builder. I installed them and ordered new pushrods for better preload.

I truly believe Torqueflite got repackaged 5003's because mine purchased approx. 1 1/2 years earlier from Hughes were packaged differently (post #4).
 
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