i cant deal with the headers anymore.. i need schumachers!

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shoebox1.1

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im looking at my car here studying the plug access and i cant do it anymore lol! i know its been beaten to death but how fast can i go with the schumacher headers and or how much power have you made or seen? the "500hp" limit they claim isnt very appealing but if the SHOE fits wear it! lol8)
 
My son's 67 fastback (old vintage drag car) had fenderwell headers on a 440 at one time. They just cut holes in the innerfenderwells for plug access. All it takes is a long extension, possibly with the wheel removed. We installed a 383 with cast iron manifolds (which placed the plugs at a different level). They weren't too hard to get to, but he decided to cut out the inner fenderwells entirely making plug access EASY. He also has a cage with forward bars to keep some stiffness.
 
there is no "through the wheel access" on this car! no. 7 is the worst.. rack and pinion would fix it but its too pricey. i just listed my motor in the classifieds i think i want to go small block. thanks for everyones help! gus
 
I run Schumacker headers on my 71 Scamp. It is rated at 500 HP on the dyno with 535 ft torque. I really like these headers. I can change all the spark plug real easy except for #6. You can get it, but it is alot easer to get #6 from under the car.
 
68 Dodge - what cam / heads are you running?

Here is a comparison between my CPPA 2" headers and the Schumaker headers.
 

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First I will say the larger header will flow a lot better. My car would probably be quicker with that type of header. I am using Edlebrock heads. My best times with 2 1/2" pipes, mufflers on is 12.00@113MPH. The only reasons I will not get bigger headers spark plug removal, looks of the engine bay and if my engine goes again. I can change engines quicker and easier for myself. I know some people will disagree.
 

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shoebox1.1 said:
there is no "through the wheel access" on this car! no. 7 is the worst.. rack and pinion would fix it but its too pricey. i just listed my motor in the classifieds i think i want to go small block. thanks for everyones help! gus
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You have to cut your own holes in the inner fenderwells. None of this is insurmountable. We tolerate having to use a box end wrench to remove #s 2, 4, and 6 on my son's 440 by reaching UNDER the alternator WITH a cold engine. Why do we tolerate this, because it's easier to change the oil with the 440 than the 340 in my GTS and the 440 is SO MUCH MORE FUN.
 
Header suck, I have a 360 in my duster with headers. I have to add at least a day to the motor install and it takes about a year off my life each time I put on headers. So its stock manifolds for me thank you. I don't even want to think about big blocks and headers. I wish I the nack for putting them on
 
paulscar008.jpg
This is the "tight" side with 2" TTI's. I put the first set of plugs in in about 15 minutes, It's easier from underneath on a few of the passenger side plugs. I figure changing them may be a once a year deal anyways.
 
well MY CAR with these particular proparts is a real pain. i turn wrenches for a living on japanese cars.. i know all about tight!!! as frequently as this car burns plug wires at this point i cant take it. now if i had ceramic boots i can deal with the install once in a while. im really up in the air right now about my combo and financial situation with the car and i cant really have the big block i want. ive got this motor for sale and i think i might go small block. for the level of performance i would be able to achieve in the next several years i dont think this BB is justified. small block headers might be a pain too but at least the plugs access is good!! thanks for everyones help! gus
 
I bit the bullet and had a local fabricator build a custom set of headers for my RB. I can change the plugs INSIDE the engine compartment from underneath the tubes. I have full inner fenders. They come up and run just under the valve covers. I run the spark plug wires UNDER the headers with 90 degree boots. He charged me $700.
 
Mopar-Man said:
I bit the bullet and had a local fabricator build a custom set of headers for my RB. I can change the plugs INSIDE the engine compartment from underneath the tubes. I have full inner fenders. They come up and run just under the valve covers. I run the spark plug wires UNDER the headers with 90 degree boots. He charged me $700.
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We need pictures!!!!!!!
 
well ive been thinking a lot about it and i know i have to have the schumacher headers. the ease of plug change and plug wire boot safety SOLD ME on them. with my mild combo i have now they will acutally help the car with TQ. im also going to get a converter to compliment my cam. thanks for everyones help and inputs!:cheers:
 
I run pro parts on my Duster and I can tell you it is easer to change plus from under the car with a box wrench. The number 1 & 8 can be done up top.
 
Old thread but what the hell! I will say with a hemi you got decent plug access and no burnt wires. First time I've seen clear pics of the schu headers and why! The two center cylinders paired up and firing 180° apart. And the end cylinders,same thing! That cant be good. I know a lotta people run strong with them but it just upsets my sensibilities. Really. Feel better now,,,,
 
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