i think its blowed

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Longgone said:
It was probably turning 8500 rpm? OMG!
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yeah its no hard task for this engine to turn 8500-8800 even 9000 i didnt realize it would turn on so hard or rev so quickly when i put it together or eles i would have done my research and built it with this stuff in the beginning
 
Post the pertinents of your engine/trans-conv/rear end gearing and your driving style. I`m sure you`ll get many different replies. As some other guys have mentioned you`ll probably need to go in the engine and find out if there was damage to your bearings. You`ll also need to find the piece of that rocker punched out by the pushrod. It would be a good time to place a strong magnet on your oil filter. This is one of those cases where you hope for the best but expect the worse. I hope it works out favorably for ya.
 
its a .030 over la 360 forged flat tops stock crank and rods balanced, ported 340x heads built and blueprinted ,springs good to 550 lift ,stainless steel valves, torker 2 single plane intake, holley hp 750, hooker super comp headers ,2 1/2 exaust, msd pro billit dist ,6a box ,175 shot of nitrous, torqueflight 904, cheatah reverse manual valve body, 3500 turbo action stall, 8 3/4 with a 3.91 yukon gearset on a strange spool driving style is probably 50/50 street - strip . i have retrived all the metal from the all the rockers what cam do you guys think would be good for this app
 
1qwikScamp said:
yeah its no hard task for this engine to turn 8500-8800 even 9000 i didnt realize it would turn on so hard or rev so quickly when i put it together or eles i would have done my research and built it with this stuff in the beginning
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I'd get a new tachometer also. Hydraulic lifters will usually float the valves at about 7500 rpm's. JMO Comp Cams is a good place to start for your solid cam, lifters and springs.

Check this link.

http://www.compcams.com/storemenu/
 
Wow, I can`t believe you are turning that kind of rpm on a stock bottom end and hydraulic cam with 550 springs. Somebody is living right. Lol! As Demon416 mentioned, at 8500 rpm you are probably way into floating the valves and way out of the power band of the cam. If you have enough compression you can try the Comp Cams XS282S solid cam with matching springs. Sounds like a comparable cam for what you`re running but without seeing all of the specs on it, I would guess it to be out of it`s power band by 6800-7000 rpm. You might give Comp and Hughes a call and talk to one of their techs. They can guide you to the right cam. It`s what they do and they do it well.
 
it usually starts floating the valves at about 8000-8200 but like i say it was on the nitrous spinning and i just couldnt grab second fast enough a rev limiter is in order i will try to figure out ho to post up a vid and to show you guys how quick it revs and on hard tires it lights them up with little or no effort
 
Wow I just had the same thing happen to me over the memorial day weekend. It was my exhaust push rod for #8 cylinder that went right thru the rocker and I wasnt even getting into her, just cruising at 50 mph 2900R's. Fortunately there was no other damage and I did have to tear the intake off to find the blown top of the rocker which I did find it laying in the area between #5 & #7 and was oh so close to dropping down between the cam gear and the gear that drives the oil pump...
 
What level of porting are the heads? What is the true compression of it? Which type, single w/dmapner or dual valve springs?
 
Gator said:
With all those engine specs he laid out I am just betting he whipped up on him unless the Mustang was supercharged.
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he was on slicks and the spray but i ran door to door with him but i was killing the tires and he didnt spin a lick if i had been on the slicks i could have ran off and hid from him but ya know spinning aint winning
 
in the 1/8th the mustang runs like 7.40s so i figure my car runs 7.0 range the way i was running with him spinning like i was. and the answer to mopers question it comes out to about 9.5 to 1 compression and its just mild pocket porting to the heads more or less just to blend the bowl into the runners
 
okay guys i need a little help i went to the huntsville dragway show and go for the tennesse valley mopar club yesterday and i bought some stuff, one of which is a set of 1.5 comp roller rockers. can someone explain to me the diffrence in 1.5 and 1.6 ratios? and what the ratio even is ?will this increase the lift of my cam over stock rockers? and if so how much? what do i need to set the lash at on these rockers? and will i have any problems with my cam i already have? i have never really done a whole lot of research on how ajustible rockers effect the geometry of your valve train so i guess i am needing a crash course on this type of thing any help is greatly appriceated
 
Here's some articles you can start by reading. http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/RockerArmBundleinstructions.pdf
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload...ngth_checking_pushrod_instructionsAug2007.pdf
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/501rockerarmsgeometry.php

Even though these are for Hughes rockers the set up and end result are the same as far as rocker roller to valve stem contact is concerned. Yes you will have to have a custom length set of push rods made.

Terry

Terry
 
thank you how will i go about determing what length pushrod to use i had in mind that comp had some off the shelf that would fit my app PN 7821-16 they are for hydraulic lifters and asjustible rockers is this wrong i have plans on calling comp to get the run down on the pushrods. but what do you think and when i install the shafts ( i just want to make sure) i mount them with the oil holes down facing the bottom of the rocker correct just like the factory units also do you think i am going to be able to run the valve springs i currently have they are fine for the lift of my cam and a little more but am i going to gain enough lift out of this swap to cause any coil bind
 
Steel rockers are usually around 1.45-1.49:1. Not quite the 1.5 they spec. The Cranes will be closer to 1.5 dead on and more consistent. Also, steelies are pretty forgiving for geometry. Rollers might be more of a challenge. The problem is the geometry on a shaft system is only affected by the valve job. Pushrods dotn do anything for it. The best way to tell is bolt them on and see how the sweep is. For a start, you can measure your existing pushrods. Then order that length but with the cupped end on them. There should be a few choices of brands for that. Then check the sweep with them. Chances are you'll be fine. If not, search geometry here. As there has been a few threads in the past few months on this that covers it well. Stability up top will give you some power adn mroe important, no more holes...
 
thanks alot. theese rockers use a ball-ball pushrod so do you think i could get by with the ones i have they are comp hardend rods i just realized that the PN i posted before was probably cup-ball sorry about the mix up i will try to get a good pic up of the rockers and adjusters you you guys can see what i am working with im sure some of you guys are running some like these they look like a really great quality rocker
 
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