Ideal replacement for water pump 67 barracuda?

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LovetheA's

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I need to replace my water pump in my 67 383 cuda. What would be a good replacement for stock 383 motor. Factory OEM mopar part or aftermarket?

Carl
 
It depends on how close to original you want/need to keep it. I would box up the original pump and throw an aftermarket on there.
 
What are you using it for? This could be a nine second car with blowers and turbos and nitrous and a motor bored a half inch over with concrete in the Stock block....


Or it could be a money burner trailer queen.....

Or it could be a rusty bucket Joe Dirt daily driver.....

Stock block is a good indicator, but it's what you want to do with it that counts.
 
All depends on what you want. I have been running a auto zone duralast new 8 blade cast iron pump on my newyorker for 3 years and I just got one for my engine run stand that I run a electric motor and cog belt and it works great, kept a 500 cu in 11.5 to 1 running cool. $33.00 at auto zone, new not reman.
 
brian6pac said:
All depends on what you want. I have been running a auto zone duralast new 8 blade cast iron pump on my newyorker for 3 years and I just got one for my engine run stand that I run a electric motor and cog belt and it works great, kept a 500 cu in 11.5 to 1 running cool. $33.00 at auto zone, new not reman.
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Sorry everyone I should of given more info. The car is stock motor 82000 miles bottom end never been apart. I drive it about 5000 miles a season but it is basically stock performance. I would keep the old water pump just to keep the correct part. I want something that is dependable and is best for a stock motor. I know aluminum stands up to corrosion better.
 
LovetheA's said:
Thank you everyone for helping me with some good suggestions.

Carl
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Everyone
Thanks for the feedback on choosing a water pump. I haven't taken the water pump housing on my cuda apart yet and thought I ask for some info beforehand. I'm assuming my water pump is bad because it sounds like there is some bearing rattling right under the water pump and not anywhere else on the engine. Motor has about 80,000 originals miles never been apart. I'm thinking pump could be going. Do I need a replacement gasket kit for the change out? Can I just clean up the old housing and pump cover and just replace the water pump? Will everything go back together and then I can connect to shaft and end hub to the fan? I just want to cover all bases before I take everything apart.
 
LovetheA's said:
Everyone
Thanks for the feedback on choosing a water pump. I haven't taken the water pump housing on my cuda apart yet and thought I ask for some info beforehand. I'm assuming my water pump is bad because it sounds like there is some bearing rattling right under the water pump and not anywhere else on the engine. Motor has about 80,000 originals miles never been apart. I'm thinking pump could be going. Do I need a replacement gasket kit for the change out? Can I just clean up the old housing and pump cover and just replace the water pump? Will everything go back together and then I can connect to shaft and end hub to the fan? I just want to cover all bases before I take everything apart.
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Bump
 
New gasket will be needed Carl for sure. Should be a straight fwd swap. Maybe chk/replace belts too.
 
Tape a piece of cardboard onto the radiator to protect it and your knuckles too.
 
Daves69 said:
Tape a piece of cardboard onto the radiator to protect it and your knuckles too.
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I thought about a question i'd like to ask the group. The OEM waterpump on my barracuda has a hub that is shaped like a small cross. The aftermarket waterpump's have a hub that is round. Is that going to be a problem to switch out or are the bolt holes the same?

Carl
 
As long as the pulley sits flat on the flange face, the bolt circle is the same, and the height is the same, you should be just fine.
 
I just removed the stock water pump housing on my 1965 383 to replace w/ an aluminum housing and pump (~$120). That saves at least 10 lb off the front end. But, read first since some on the C-body forum say some Chinese versions restrict the flow. But, insure you get the correct one. Some 383's had the lower hose on the opposite side. Same deal on small-blocks. Mopar engineers must have giggled thinking how confusing that would be for us 50 yrs later.

Not true that aluminum corrodes less than cast-iron. All pumps have a sheet-metal impeller, regardless of housing. Most 1960's Mopar slant six engines w/ aluminum block are now useless due to corrosion. Also, aluminum radiators work better, but corrode much easier than copper. Also, I think when you have steel - aluminum - steel, that is known as "a battery", and perhaps why the alum timing cover in early small-blocks tended to get corroded-thru holes to leak coolant in the crankcase. No longer affects me since I use Evans Waterless Coolant in 6 of my 7 vehicles.
 
LovetheA's said:
... are the bolt holes the same? Carl
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Even the same bolt holes and pilot hole on my 1985 M-B water pump. Thus, some people use the thinner M-B or Jaguar fan-clutch when pressed for space. At least one place where the world standardized. Some engines (Chevy?) had a thicker w.p. shaft, so some fan clutches come w/ a bushing to use on cars w/ a thinner shaft (Mopar). Of course, the tapped holes in the w.p. may be SAE or metric, but doesn't affect the pulley and fan.
 
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