Identifying engine

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rivertaff

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I was looking to buy this car however the engine isn't original and I suspect it to possibly be a 318 motorhome engine which I'm told can have issues. Is there anyway to know before checking the casting numbers?
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Drivers side front just below the head there is some stamping that will give you the displacement year etc.

C 273 12-6

C - 67 model year
273 displacement
12-6 Dec 6th 1966 assembly date. (1966 is implied by C being for 67 model year)

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If it’s a motorhome 318 the intake has been changed. The cooling system on those passed water through the intake manifold heat crossover instead of exhaust. Check for any sign of water in the oil. Typical HD/industrial 318s (But not all!) had a -3 block number on the side after the casting numbers, but I know of a ‘72. -7 number block with 340 cast crank and HD full floating rods.
 
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issues
better timing chain, gaskets, valves
run a compression check
pan on replacing chain & stem seals no matter what
 
Dude, it's a charger. Swap out the engine if it's an issue, I'd be more concerned about the condition and functioning of the electroluminescent lighting for the gages, radio, and console shift indicator, especially the 12V to 220V inverter. These can be quite expensive to fix. 66-67 chargers did not use a normal gage back lighting with light bulbs. The pointers, and gage faces glowed on the EL principle.
 
And if it’s a 318-3 with the premium steel crank, HD full float rods, and the 246 heads with closed chambers and symmetrical exhaust valve bowls you’ll have an excellent core engine for a stout 318. Sonic test first, 4 and up to 4.04 inch bores are sometimes possible.
 
So far as I know only the heavier motorhomes had the 318-3. The "van" ones were a standard similar to passenger car. I'm pretty sure the oddball "water through the intake" ones all used "Ford style" tapered seat spark plugs rather than the common long reach 14mm plugs
 
Dude, it's a charger. Swap out the engine if it's an issue, I'd be more concerned about the condition and functioning of the electroluminescent lighting for the gages, radio, and console shift indicator, especially the 12V to 220V inverter. These can be quite expensive to fix. 66-67 chargers did not use a normal gage back lighting with light bulbs. The pointers, and gage faces glowed on the EL principle.


exactly its a charger !!! start looking for a motor home 440 or 413/426 wedge :poke::icon_fU::rofl: h_ll I be looking for a poly 318 there cheap because everyone is scared of em ! OH yeah make sure it has a flux capacitor !!

you really need to get on the B bodies web sitehttps://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/

I am from NY up here ANY CHARGER rolling stopping and running and if the car looks HALF as good as that engine bay is at least $7000 !!!
 
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66 was a changeover year. I could be wrong, but I believe the LA318 was standard issue in the 66-67 charger.
 
66 was a changeover year. I could be wrong, but I believe the LA318 was standard issue in the 66-67 charger.
I ve seen them with "POLYS" not a charger expert though dont know what the differences are 66/67 just luv em and the AMC merlin's:thumbsup:
 
Get a picture of the fender tag. It might be a big block car. My 66 Charger had a 361 big block from the factory. The fenders had “V8” emblems whereas the 383 and 426 Hemi equipped cars had engine displacement emblems.
 
Get a picture of the fender tag. It might be a big block car. My 66 Charger had a 361 big block from the factory. The fenders had “V8” emblems whereas the 383 and 426 Hemi equipped cars had engine displacement emblems.
wow forgot about the 361 thought that was a industrial engine ?? seen those on woodchippers/pumps/boats and generators...
 
To the OP-
Welcome to the forum. As others have said, check the body carefully. Frame, trans crossmember, rear frame by the spring hangers, front by the control arm mounts. Engines are relatively easier than fixing rust.
 
I'll add to that by saying unless it's a factory 440 or Hemi car, who cares about what's in it now. Swap it out if need be. I'd rather do an engine swap than cut out and replace rusty ****.
 
ANY engine can "have issues"... Does it run well? Any obvious leaks/puddles/weird sounds? If not- no harm no foul. Drive it for now, and deal with all the other inevitable little issues that will crop up when you're driving a vintage car. It looks like the guy that swapped it in at least had a fair idea of what he was doing- electronic ignition, new radiator, etc. Just check the wiring to make sure it wasn't goobered up when he modded it. I'd be more concerned about getting that single pot master cylinder OFF that car and a dual-reservoir unit on it!
 
ANY engine can "have issues"... Does it run well? Any obvious leaks/puddles/weird sounds? If not- no harm no foul. Drive it for now, and deal with all the other inevitable little issues that will crop up when you're driving a vintage car. It looks like the guy that swapped it in at least had a fair idea of what he was doing- electronic ignition, new radiator, etc. Just check the wiring to make sure it wasn't goobered up when he modded it. I'd be more concerned about getting that single pot master cylinder OFF that car and a dual-reservoir unit on it!
Yep, along with front disc brakes if it doesnt have them. Do an M body brake and spindle swap. Already has BBJ upper arms and BBP wheels.
 
Yep, along with front disc brakes if it doesnt have them. Do an M body brake and spindle swap. Already has BBJ upper arms and BBP wheels.
The moral of the story is: Don't learn this the hard way! I took out 50 yards of pasture fence, a mailbox, and stopped it against a telephone pole... Never did get that stain out of the driver's seat, though...
 
The moral of the story is: Don't learn this the hard way! I took out 50 yards of pasture fence, a mailbox, and stopped it against a telephone pole... Never did get that stain out of the driver's seat, though...
cloth HUH :rofl:
 
ANY engine can "have issues"...


LOLOLOL!!! Way back in the mid 70's I WAS BROKE, and trying to get the 340 ready to drop into the Landcruiser. Need a "temp" engine for the RR. (I had swapped a SB into it) Bought a "318LA" from a guy for 50 bucks. TURNED OUT TO BE A 273!!!! LOLOL. Threw that thing in the RR, (4 speed) and drove it nearly a year. It smoked some, but ALWAYS ran, and actually had fair driveability and power. I was amazed.
 
and you were hooked
mopar in a land rover- never done that one
I did not even know adapters existed

Not Rover, Land Cruiser. This was all "custom" except for one adapter which sucked. Mopar SB, A833, Advance Adapter to Jeep "straight through" transfer case. There were 3 of us all together who used this same adapter, and all had the same problems, THANKS!!!! Advance!!!! Shaft was soft and eventually wore where the transfer case drive gear mounted, causing the transfer to pop out of high range into neutral. The transmission had too much end play thanks to the adapter shaft, and eventually wore 3rd gear so that IT popped out.

My old 62 LC had a centered rear pinion, so the Jeep transfer allowed the drive shaft right down the center. This gave just enough room for "real" Corvair turbo mufflers tucked neatly up into the frame.

Drive shafts were make from Bronco shafts with worn out CV joints. I cut them off, this gave me a shaft that fit the transfer case on one end, with the LC slip yoke on the other. A little machine work and welded them together. LC (FJ-40) are heavy. The thing weighed about 3850 as I recall Used to run "Desert Dog" tires.
 
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