idle issues

[challenger_moe]

ok so I jsut picked up this 1972 dart that has sat for 10 years. It fired right off but have a few issues with it that I need some help with. "im a body guy not a motor guy". So here goes..... when on a cold start up the car runs beautifully! hit accelerator and purs great.... after she warms up though and the idle drops if you try to give it any gas it wants to die. I can ease into it and its fine "thats how I drove it home" but if i give it any normal amount of acceleration it wants to die. Any ideas??

 

[Abodybomber]

Cheapest,first.If you have an air compresser,and a rubber tipped bloe gun.Step 1:attempt to seat the mixture screw,count the turns.Step 2:Upon removal,blow that rubber tip,into the hole that mixture screw came from.Step 3: Re-insert screw,seat it.Take it ,to the amount of turns you counted to seat it.Best part,it is free! That slanty runs longer,on the idle and off idle circuits than any other motor I have seen.

 

[tekslk]

Sounds like accelerator pump issue when you look into the carb and work throttle by hand is it getting a shot of fuel? If not the pump might be shot.

 

[wjajr]

It is time for a carburetor cleaning and rebuild. Accelerator pump has dried out; probably there is a coat of varnish on internal surfaces restricting fuel flow as well.

 

[challenger_moe]

was thinking about rebuilding the carb, where do you get the kits for the single barrel? and does the accelerator pump come with the rebuild kit? if not where is a good place to purchase these two items.

 

[TrailBeast]

Any local chain has rebuild kits, and yes the accel pump unit comes in the kits.

was thinking about rebuilding the carb, where do you get the kits for the single barrel? and does the accelerator pump come with the rebuild kit? if not where is a good place to purchase these two items.

 

[challenger_moe]

update!!!! completed my first carb rebuild! went great got it all back together checked to see if fuel was infact flowing into the carb. Got a tack and set the idle screws to the book..... but still have issues under acceleration. Idles fine but if you try and rev it the car will act like it wants to die, then it will backfire a bit and pick right up and go. put it in gear and get on it like you would in normal driving conditions and it will do the same and even die. I am puzzled on what to do next.

 

[wjajr]

Good job on carburetor rebuild, your work was not wasted.

I still think you have a fuel delivery problem, check float level, fuel pump for output and pressure, and blow out fuel line. Stumbling, and backfiring up through carburetor is sign of lean condition, and sometimes incorrect timing. Often when a car sits un used for a while fuel lines can become gunked up with rust & varnish, perhaps pin holes which will inhibit pumps ability to deliver fuel, and pump diaphragms dry out or dry rot.

 

[challenger_moe]

i know the fuel guage doesnt work either, is the fuel pump and sending unit for the guage all one piece? see if this works. video of car....
[ame]http://s566.photobucket.com/albums/ss107/charger_rt_moe/?action=view&current=M2U00010.mp4[/ame]

 

[wjajr]

i know the fuel guage doesnt work either, is the fuel pump and sending unit for the guage all one piece? see if this works. video of car....

Fuel pump is located just below #1 spark plug.

Sending unit (the thing that controls fuel gage) is inside fuel tank. A quick test of gage is to pull fuel gage sending wire off of tank where fuel line is connected, and ground it to frame of car. If gage moves to full, than gage and circuit to gage is good, and the problem is at the sending unit. Most often when gage is good, the problem is lack of a good ground to sending unit.

The factory grounded sending unit by a 6 or 7 inch strip of steel that clipped to the metal tube coming out of tank, than spanned the rubber hose coupling connecting the metal fuel line to tank, and clipped onto the metal fuel line. One can improvise with two small hose clamps by clamping a length of wire shiny clean fuel line, or order a factory like ground strap from Year One or several other venders.

If the gage does not respond to grounding, than perhaps the voltage limiter in back of the gage cluster in dash is not functioning. If this is the case then this problem can be better covered in “Electrical”.