If my 727 shifts too soon, and too soft, which way do I adjust?

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69_340_GTS

69_340_GTS

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If my 727 shifts too soon, and too soft, which way do I adjust the (stock) linkage? Make the sliding carb linkage longer, or shorter? I tried adjusting per FSM, but since this is a TCI performance unit, I'm assuming the FSM really can't be followed to the letter.
 
The correct way to start is open the carb to full throttle (engine off) and adjust the kick down linkage so it is at the end of its travel.
 
By chance did you switch your carb and/or manifold to non-standard unit as well, like a high rise maybe? I was never able to get it to shift properly when I switched mine. It changes the geometry of the bell crank and shaft movement. Finally switched to a 727 Lokar cable shift down and that solved the problem. Was less than $100 and has worked flawlessly ever since.
 
69_340_GTS said:
If my 727 shifts too soon, and too soft, which way do I adjust the (stock) linkage? Make the sliding carb linkage longer, or shorter? I tried adjusting per FSM, but since this is a TCI performance unit, I'm assuming the FSM really can't be followed to the letter.
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Longer? To be specific, you need more throttle pressure. Meaning the KD moves towards rear of trans makes it hang in gear longer. I think that’s correct (past my bedtime) but, the transmission gurus will chime in.
 
69_340_GTS said:
If my 727 shifts too soon, and too soft, which way do I adjust the (stock) linkage? Make the sliding carb linkage longer, or shorter? I tried adjusting per FSM, but since this is a TCI performance unit, I'm assuming the FSM really can't be followed to the letter.
Click to expand...

Longer, as in pushes the linkage farther back.
Then the next step is to make sure your throttle opens all the way.
A little throttle opening can be sacrificed if it gets your shifts where you like it if that's ok with you.
 
I don't know why people make this so complicated to explain. It just isn't.

Here is how to adjust. Put front of the car on jack stands or ramps so you can get under it. Block the rear wheels of course. Block the gas pedal WIDE OPEN, with the engine NOT running, of course. lol Now, adjust the transmission linkage so that it has the throttle lever on the transmission pushed ALL THE WAY BACK as far as it will go. I said to get the car in the air for two reasons. 1) so that you can VERIFY the throttle lever on the transmission is all the way back and 2) because you may need to adjust the linkage "UNDER THERE" as well to get it right.

Once this is done, get the car down and test drive it. IF IT SHIFTS too late and too hard, you should be able to adjust the under hood linkage to allow it to shift sooner. If that's the case, you would be shortening the rod. I always HATE when people throw out "longer or shorter" and then never explain WTH they're talking about or WHY.

If you need further assistance, send me a PM and I can walk you through it on the phone.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
I don't know why people make this so complicated to explain. It just isn't.

Here is how to adjust. Put front of the car on jack stands or ramps so you can get under it. Block the rear wheels of course. Block the gas pedal WIDE OPEN, with the engine NOT running, of course. lol Now, adjust the transmission linkage to that it has the throttle lever on the transmission pushed ALL THE WAY BACK as far as it will go. I said to get the car in the air for two reasons. 1) so that you can VERIFY the throttle lever on the transmission is all the way back and 2) because you may need to adjust the linkage "UNDER THERE" as well to get it right.

Once this is done, get the car down and test drive it. IF IT SHIFTS too late and too hard, you should be able to adjust the under hood linkage to allow it to shift sooner. If that's the case, you would be shortening the rod. I always HATE when people throw out "longer or shorter" and then never explain WTH they're talking about or WHY.

If you need further assistance, send me a PM and I can walk you through it on the phone.
Click to expand...


may take you up on the pm once Im back on the road, will seen how the mutt does
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't know why people make this so complicated to explain. It just isn't.

Here is how to adjust. Put front of the car on jack stands or ramps so you can get under it. Block the rear wheels of course. Block the gas pedal WIDE OPEN, with the engine NOT running, of course. lol Now, adjust the transmission linkage so that it has the throttle lever on the transmission pushed ALL THE WAY BACK as far as it will go. I said to get the car in the air for two reasons. 1) so that you can VERIFY the throttle lever on the transmission is all the way back and 2) because you may need to adjust the linkage "UNDER THERE" as well to get it right.

Once this is done, get the car down and test drive it. IF IT SHIFTS too late and too hard, you should be able to adjust the under hood linkage to allow it to shift sooner. If that's the case, you would be shortening the rod. I always HATE when people throw out "longer or shorter" and then never explain WTH they're talking about or WHY.

If you need further assistance, send me a PM and I can walk you through it on the phone.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I did, in your 2nd paragraph. Now, I'm trying to fine tune it. But if I make the sliding rod longer the butterflies won't open all the way, because I've now hit the hard stop on the transmission itself. I believe I've got to make the rod down there shorter?
 
69_340_GTS said:
That's exactly what I did, in your 2nd paragraph. Now, I'm trying to fine tune it. But if I make the sliding rod longer the butterflies won't open all the way, because I've now hit the hard stop on the transmission itself. I believe I've got to make the rod down there shorter?
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If you make the rod shorter at the trans it will put you right back where you started, only you will have made the rod incapable of ever being adjusted right.
If the TP linkage is all the way to it's full travel and your shifts are still too soft and early something else is wrong.
Do you have access to a gauge to put on that thing so you can pressure test it?
 
rt440mag said:
By chance did you switch your carb and/or manifold to non-standard unit as well, like a high rise maybe? I was never able to get it to shift properly when I switched mine. It changes the geometry of the bell crank and shaft movement. Finally switched to a 727 Lokar cable shift down and that solved the problem. Was less than $100 and has worked flawlessly ever since.
Click to expand...
Yes but the Edelbrock Performer manifold is pretty close to stock height, and the Holley carb has the correct Mopar-type lever/stud installed. So... I don't really think that is the problem. But, I did swap from Holley to AVS back to Holley, and something surely got changed.
 
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TrailBeast said:
If you make the rod shorter at the trans it will put you right back where you started, only you will have made the rod incapable of ever being adjusted right.
If the TP linkage is all the way to it's full travel and your shifts are still too soft and early something else is wrong.
Do you have access to a gauge to put on that thing so you can pressure test it?
Click to expand...
Makes sense. But no gauges for testing here. I first will try making the rod a thread or two longer and see how it shifts. If it works, then I'll look at the WOT issue. (I'm pretty sure it's just an adjustment, everything used to work fine until I took the AVS carb off and put the Holley on, and of course had to monkey with the linkage)
 
VOETOM said:
You do have the adapter, correct?
On the carb?
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The adapter lever Holley sells? Yep. Was working good with the same Holley a while back. Then I put an AVS on it and by trial & error got it adjusted till I was happy with it. Now I put the same Holley back on, and can't seem to get the doggone thing adjusted right. I figure if I knew for sure which way to go with the length, I'd cut my trial & error time in half. If I find the time and the weather cooperates I'll screw around with it some more this weekend.
 
Ok, u have the 3 piece linkage right. Everyone wants u to adjust it at the carb, but when u can’t get it right u have to shorten the rod at the carb so it has less travel. Then adjust the down rod at the bell crank making it longer. This adjustment is the most critical as then u can adj the rod at the carb so the carb will fully open. Most ppl don’t do the down rod adjustment because they simply don’t know and nobody recommends it as they don’t know/understand it either. Also the rod at the carb to be set correctly needs a 1/8 drill bit slid between the carb stud and the slot at wot. Kim
 
Along what Kimmer says, might be worth looking to see that you have the correct length lever on the transmission too.


oldkimmer said:
Ok, u have the 3 piece linkage right. Everyone wants u to adjust it at the carb, but when u can’t get it right u have to shorten the rod at the carb so it has less travel. Then adjust the down rod at the bell crank making it longer. This adjustment is the most critical as then u can adj the rod at the carb so the carb will fully open. Most ppl don’t do the down rod adjustment because they simply don’t know and nobody recommends it as they don’t know/understand it either. Also the rod at the carb to be set correctly needs a 1/8 drill bit slid between the carb stud and the slot at wot. Kim
Click to expand...
 
oldkimmer said:
Ok, u have the 3 piece linkage right. Everyone wants u to adjust it at the carb, but when u can’t get it right u have to shorten the rod at the carb so it has less travel. Then adjust the down rod at the bell crank making it longer. This adjustment is the most critical as then u can adj the rod at the carb so the carb will fully open. Most ppl don’t do the down rod adjustment because they simply don’t know and nobody recommends it as they don’t know/understand it either. Also the rod at the carb to be set correctly needs a 1/8 drill bit slid between the carb stud and the slot at wot. Kim
Click to expand...

And that is if his pressure is right in the first place.



VOETOM said:
Along what Kimmer says, might be worth looking to see that you have the correct length lever on the transmission too.
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Good call, thank you.
That gets overlooked, but could make a huge difference in the geometry being right.
 
Can you give us some pictures of what you have up top and on the bottom?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Can you give us some pictures of what you have up top and on the bottom?
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Maybe later if I can't get it back to where it was before. I doubt if there is any problem with the trans or the linkage. It was working good before I put the old carb back on. I appreciate the help & suggestions. Just working too much this week and have not had a chance to look at it again. Like here I am up at 3:30 AM getting ready to go to work. Aaaargh.
 
oldkimmer said:
Ok, u have the 3 piece linkage right. Everyone wants u to adjust it at the carb, but when u can’t get it right u have to shorten the rod at the carb so it has less travel. Then adjust the down rod at the bell crank making it longer. This adjustment is the most critical as then u can adj the rod at the carb so the carb will fully open. Most ppl don’t do the down rod adjustment because they simply don’t know and nobody recommends it as they don’t know/understand it either. Also the rod at the carb to be set correctly needs a 1/8 drill bit slid between the carb stud and the slot at wot. Kim
Click to expand...

Good Stuff right here ^^^^^^
 
69_340_GTS said:
Maybe later if I can't get it back to where it was before. I doubt if there is any problem with the trans or the linkage. It was working good before I put the old carb back on. I appreciate the help & suggestions. Just working too much this week and have not had a chance to look at it again. Like here I am up at 3:30 AM getting ready to go to work. Aaaargh.
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What is this work thing you speak of? I have never heard, used or done this term before.
 
The buying parts and powder coating parts sounds nice, the thing before that not so much .

I am glad you started this thread though because it allowed me to adjust my cable, now instead of nasty hard shifting in my car it's shifting smooth as a baby's bottom.
 
oldkimmer said:
Ok, u have the 3 piece linkage right. Everyone wants u to adjust it at the carb, but when u can’t get it right u have to shorten the rod at the carb so it has less travel. Then adjust the down rod at the bell crank making it longer. This adjustment is the most critical as then u can adj the rod at the carb so the carb will fully open... Kim
Click to expand...

Thanks! This helped a lot.:thumbsup:
 
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