ignition help please

[rcottick]

Talk about bummed out.....Today was the day to finally start my car after 3 years of work.

My problem is its not getting spark. I did the elctronic ignition conversion with a used distributor but everything else is new. I wired it EXACTLY as the diagram shows in the tech archive and I get nothing absolutely nothing. Could the control box be bad? Its the orange box brand new from Mancini's or could my distributor be bad?

I wired it with the light blue to the run side of the ballast and the black with yellow tracer to - side of coil and the start side of ballast to the + side of coil. Just as it shows in the diagram.

Somebody please help, I havent been so bummed out in my life.

Ron

 

[mullinax95]

Get a voltage meter and do a simple check to see if you are getting voltage on the postive side of the coil with switch is on and getting voltage at one of the ballast terminals first. Sounds like it is something simple to me that you are just over looking. Also do you have the brown wire hooked to the ballast?

 

[rcottick]

it has the original factory witing, looks like blue and brown hooked to the ballast. I didnt check it with a meter but I used a test light and the 1 side of the ballast gets power when in the run position and the other is getting power in the start position, same thing with the + side of the coil.

 

[mullinax95]

it has the original factory witing, looks like blue and brown hooked to the ballast. I didnt check it with a meter but I used a test light and the 1 side of the ballast gets power when in the run position and the other is getting power in the start position, same thing with the + side of the coil.

:scratch:

OK do you have the single ballast or a dual ballast? I don't know for sure if it makes any difference but when I converted another car I once owned to electronic ignition I had to get the dual ballast not the single. Technically I don't know why that was but that's what I had to purchase. Does your wiring diagram show a single ballast being used or a dual? I have the 300+ Accel ignition on my car and for it to run I had to twist the brown and blue wire together and hooked the hot lead for the ignition box to those doing away with the ballast altogether.

 

[mullinax95]

Here is a wiring diagram using the dual resistor. Notice the jumper wire that links both sides of the resistor. This might be problem but as long as you are getting voltage at the coil and igntion box at the same time then you should be fine. You might need to have a friend to check and see if everything stays hot as you try to start the motor. I found out the hard way and that's the reason I had to twist the blue and the brown together rather than coming straight off the blue.
I hope it's not to small but I could not upload any larger because of forum restrictions. If this will help you out any but you cannot make it out because of size PM me your email address and I can send you the larger file size.

 

[69signetv8]

One wire is enough to screw up your day..and as stated...a 2 or 4 pin resistor? Here a more clear drawing.

 

[redfastback]

so with the test light, you get power on the + side of coil? check to make sure that the box is grounded. if you pull the plugs off the ballast, which side gets power? that is the side that has to power the box. if you have access to a volt meter, put in on the ohms settings and see if you get a reading on the pick up coils from the distributor. it should be like 300-900 ohms or something like that.

 

[BJS racing]

Do you have a 4 or 5 pin ignition box. If you have a 4 pin then you need a 2 post .8 ohm-1.2 ohm ballast resistor. If you have the 5 pin module then you need the 4 post ballast.

 

[mullinax95]

Do you have a 4 or 5 pin ignition box. If you have a 4 pin then you need a 2 post .8 ohm-1.2 ohm ballast resistor. If you have the 5 pin module then you need the 4 post ballast.

OK that answers the question that I had about why I had to use the 2 post resistor instead of the single.