Ignition switch R&R

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
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This is on my 69 Dart my org ignition switch has given me fits not working right for 2 long now.So I got a new one along with the door locks:cheers:a must have.What i would like to know is how does the switch remove and install back into the housing.Right now I can slide my switch in and out nothing keeps it lock in the housing,I did not get a new housing,maybe i should of.
 
The procedure does not seem to be in the shop manuals, but I'm assuming by "housing" you actually mean "switch" and by "switch" you actually mean "lock cylinder."

The thing is, as old as these old girls are getting to be, I'd replace the switch, as well, and while you are at it, check the integrity of the connector terminals.
 
4spdragtop said:
There should be a bezel that holds it into place. Post a pic of your dash
Click to expand...

Ok when I get home tonight,there is a bezel,maybe I am not clear I got the switch and door locks.I thought I was geeing it all in one piece , what i call the housing where I have to plug it into my harness.going to call SMC they got it from year one and see what happened.
 
By switch not working right do you mean the key hangs up not allowing it to turn each start, or it turns easily but electrical functions are not working correctly?

Screw off chrome bezel from the snout of switch housing which protrudes through the dash. The switch and lock can now be removed from dash as one by pushing its snout back from dash, and pulling it out from behind dash.

Once switch is in hand, you can remove lock cylinder by turning key counter clock ways, depressing a little chrome pin on side of switch housing will allow the cylinder to be pulled out.

You will have to determine if switch is working correctly, and if key is hanging up you have an easily fixed lock problem either replacing it with new (think ‘69 takes later keyway which is more readily available), or repining and cutting fresh key to code by lock smith to freshen the old girl up.

If you are having electrical problems replace switch, and reuse old lock cylinder as is, or have old cylinder repined to freshen up its action to go with new switch.
 
Thanks wjajr that's just the advice I wanted ya the switch sometimes when trying to start just moves back and fourth so loosley its not funny.The key did jam once so off to the lock smith,so now just got a new one and door locks.
 
Ok here are the pics as you can see I can easely remove the switch the bezel if so does not keep the switch in place.On the side there is a small thingy that's spring loaded but has very little spring action maybe that's the problem.
 

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The SWITCH is still in the dash, held in by the chrome piece which unscrews

What you have in your hand is the lock or the "lock cylinder."

You are not supposed to be able to remove the lock that way. Once you have the entire assembly out, (I don't remember exactly) I believe normally you turn the key to "on" and push that pin down through a hole in the side of the switch (rear section) and that will release the lock as you have it.

I agree, there must be something wrong with that pin
 
Thanks 67Dart273 the pin in the new lock cyl does move in and out perfect,I do have a new Switch coming now not likely need it but who knows when it will take a dump.
 
Heck I just bought mine at the local NAPA. Last I knew, if you knew who to bribe, you could actually order matched sets through Standard Motor Products.

They and Echlin (NAPA) are evidently now one big happy Asian family, so I don't know.................
 
67Dart273 said:
Heck I just bought mine at the local NAPA. Last I knew, if you knew who to bribe, you could actually order matched sets through Standard Motor Products.

They and Echlin (NAPA) are evidently now one big happy Asian family, so I don't know.................
Click to expand...

PS thankssssssssssss for setting me straight as to what my parts are called,me feel dumb lol.
 
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