ignition switch?

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phf

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if my car doesnt start when i turn the key but i can still hotwire it, would that mean my ignition switch is bad?
 
no where near enough info in you post. What car ? Wont start or wont turn over ? Could be starter relay, neutral safety switch, etc.. Got test light on hand ?
Bumped anyway. Good luck
 
Like Red said, need more info. When you say it don't start does that mean it cranks over but won't fire or don't crank over at all?
 
I have a 71 duster. Turning the ignition switch to the start position does nothing, but if I turn it to the run position and bypass the starter relay and run a hot wire to the positive terminal on the coil it starts right up and runs find after I remove the hot wire to the coil. Any ideas?
 
Ok you'll need to find the signal wire at the starter relay and check it with a test light. If the ignition switch doesn't light it up, chase that fault backward through the neutral safety switch. Those are in various locations depending on year model , trans type, and modifications.
If the test light does light , the relay is bad. "71 Duster" is still not nearly enough details but its a start. Hope this helps
 
mine is a 67 barracuda, 318, auto trans. when i try to start with the key it does nothing, but when i leave the key in the on position and connect 2 of the wires on the starter relay(which is brand new) it cranks and fires up fine.
 
The smallest wire on the starter relay (yellow) is the start signal wire.comming from your switch.Check it with a test light. Should light up when you attempt start. If it dont the switch is the probem. If it does light up then the neutral safety switch on the transmission isn't providing the ground needed for the relay to work. That would be the larger slip on wire (black). Use a jumper wire from that relay terminal to any ground and the relay should work. Have you tryed starting in neutral position ?
hope this makes sense.
 
Red's right on both accounts but I just wanted to say the guys who jumped in with questions about their cars should start a new thread with their questions because when 2 or 3 guys start asking different (but similiar) questions it gets confusing. These last 2 questions are similiar but not really the same as the original posters because his cranks over fine but just don't fire so you see how it can get confusing.

Thanks for understanding.
 
I have replaced the relay, neutral safety switch, ignition, starter 3 times, Alt. reads strong discharge when I crank but does not turn over. Leave the key on and jump the relay with a screwdriver it starts just fine. I'm gonna start replacing wires on the inside next. But which ones????:banghead:
 
It's possible the ignition switch is bad but also very possible it's the modular connector on the column.... go to your library's reference section and they very likely have a wiring diagram book you can make a copy from.....
 
I have replaced the relay, neutral safety switch, ignition, starter 3 times, Alt. reads strong discharge when I crank but does not turn over. Leave the key on and jump the relay with a screwdriver it starts just fine. I'm gonna start replacing wires on the inside next. But which ones????:banghead:

Rather than just guessing by throwing parts at it get a multimeter and run some voltage checks. It's a whole lot faster and cheaper. Since you replaced all those parts it's probably in the wiring. The bulkhead connector on the firewall is a trouble spot on old cars. The connections get corroded and don't make good contact and cause all kinds of problems. I'd check that first and if you find no problem there since your able to jump the relay and it starts it's probably either the relay isn't getting B+ to it when you turn the key to start or the neutral switch signal ground isn't getting to the relay. Hook a multimeter up to the yellow wire going to the start relay and turn the ignition switch to start. You should read battery voltage. If not the problems in the yellow wiring somewhere. Next check would be to pull off the brown wire on the starter relay and make sure the car is in park and turn the multimeter on ohms X1 scale and test from the brown wire to ground. It should be 0 ohms or really close.
 
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