Will do!I don't remember seeing anybody mention the P15-D24 forum. Go over and get registered and a lot of good information over there.
Will do!I don't remember seeing anybody mention the P15-D24 forum. Go over and get registered and a lot of good information over there.
I am learning..slowly! Ha I do have a FSM and the eng. wiring dia. refers to D29 or D30, etc etc. I did learn that refers to the eng. and has that stamped on side of it!!!
Yep wired backwards. The guy I got it from is my age or a little younger. He inherited it from his 95 yr old uncle. He tried to get it started, pulls pugs out and leaves the out for ?? how long. He wants to try to turn it over by hand but...... And... Not good when plugs are on TOP of the engine! ha It had been parked last 20 yrs or so, as the owner went to the nursing home. Running, driving some point prior.
I enjoy learning about new things that I can develop an interest in. IF anyone reading this has experience with flatheads, please let me know if a book on "how to rebuild flathead Fords" is worth the $, as it probably deals with v8s mainly but I have to wonder IF the Mopar strait flathead and Fords version of really much different?
I know, someone will say "drop a 360 in it!!!!! ha
First thing i would do is stick a couple teaspoons of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, hoping to get it loose. Dont use too much, excess will go past open flathead valves.I am learning..slowly! Ha I do have a FSM and the eng. wiring dia. refers to D29 or D30, etc etc. I did learn that refers to the eng. and has that stamped on side of it!!!
Yep wired backwards. The guy I got it from is my age or a little younger. He inherited it from his 95 yr old uncle. He tried to get it started, pulls pugs out and leaves the out for ?? how long. He wants to try to turn it over by hand but...... And... Not good when plugs are on TOP of the engine! ha It had been parked last 20 yrs or so, as the owner went to the nursing home. Running, driving some point prior.
I enjoy learning about new things that I can develop an interest in. IF anyone reading this has experience with flatheads, please let me know if a book on "how to rebuild flathead Fords" is worth the $, as it probably deals with v8s mainly but I have to wonder IF the Mopar strait flathead and Fords version of really much different?
I know, someone will say "drop a 360 in it!!!!! ha
I filled it with mix of ATF and acetone when I got it home! Changing oil in it today.First thing i would do is stick a couple teaspoons of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, hoping to get it loose. Dont use too much, excess will go past open flathead valves.
What year is this?This is the first thing I thought of..........
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That is a pic of the High and Mighty, a ply? or Dodge? Business Coupe not sure of exact year maybe a 49 or 50? It was the test mule for the Mopar factory engineer group that basically did all the testing for what was to become our muscle cars.What year is this?
That is Paul Soliz's tribute to the High and Mighty gasser. It's a 50 plymouth business coupe, southern california area, rat motor powered.What year is this?
Thanks I do have the FSM. It is a manual, and yes I do need a good puller for my darn early B bodies also!!! I bet will be asking you some questions.Barbee -
It costs about the same to rebuild a Mopar flathead 6 as it does a valve in head 6 or 8. My ‘53 Dodge has its original flathead 6 (rebuilt). I’ve owned and worked on a few over the years. As good as it looks, I would strive for originality.
if you get stumped on something, contact me. I am located about 50 miles northwest of San Antonio and I have a shop manual.
Be aware that when you work on the rear brakes, you will need a good wheel puller.
If it is a Fluid Drive, you will have to make sure you have the E-brake working properly or you will get to chase it down hills.
The numbers on the driver side, high up on the block are the numbers it is registered under - unless someone changed the engine and failed to transfer the numbers. Every time I get my truck inspected the guys get a laugh out of that.
Your wiring will probably be old and crumbly. Beware.
There are many reasons why people change these old period cars over to more modern drivetrains!!!!It's not just the tapered axles in the early (pre-60) Mopars, but also those dual leading shoe brakes. They aren't self-energizing and don't work worth a crap if not adjusted/aligned correctly, and there are two adjustment points on each shoe. There's a special tool for adjusting them. You don't absolutely have to have it, but it does make it easier to get them right. When right, they are very effective (for drum brakes). I eliminated half the problem by putting disc brakes up front.
Then there are the ball and trunnion u-joints, the fluid drive unit (have fun filling that), the funky external band emergency brake (if that doesn't work, you'll need to carry a wheel chock around with you to keep the car from rolling away when parked, as the fluid coupling just lets the car roll - that's one of the main reasons I converted to straight manual trans). All stuff that cost more to produce and supposedly worked better, but seventy years later are much more difficult to service than the stuff we're used to (and can readily get parts for).
No center link; instead you have one long and one short tie rod. And the shock absorbers connect the upper and lower control arms, instead of lower control arm and frame. Not real effective.
And you'll get comments on the single brake light in the middle of the trunk lid, like "do you know only your central brake light works?" and you say, "yep, that's the only one that's supposed to work." Or you want to turn left at a four way stop, so you put your arm out to signal a left turn and no one today knows what that means, and they can't believe you don't have turn signals.
Don't get me wrong, I love my Wayfarer, but it's a whole different world than the sixties stuff.
This model is quite rare.Wife finally got pics in puter!!!
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